Aesthetics and future goals
05-03-18, 07:20 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Aesthetics and future goals
Yooooo.
So i recently posted about my 7 coming over from japan and of course the plans are already there.
So i plan on a full intake and exhaust...... i want to plan ready and ahead to sort it out. i will be adding a carbon bonnet.
So with a carbon bonnet how would you work it?
Front mount intercooler and just go for what i think looks good
or
V mount with a open/vented carbon bonnet for the added breathing of the air going up?
or
is it the total opposite? i want the air in the engine bay with a v mount so would you keep a closed style bonnet with a v mount?
It's currently a twin turbo and will be staying this way for a while as i only want 300whp for now. with a complete intake, exhaust and a tune that should be pretty simple to get on a stock engine and turbos.
Also, what systems are out there for exhausts? i have seen catback systems but what about downpipes?
i'd want to go about 3.5inch full through exhaust, from the manifold back but unable to find any UK based sellers from my searches. is this something that would be best having it fully custom made? or would anyone recommend X type of exhaust to me?
So i recently posted about my 7 coming over from japan and of course the plans are already there.
So i plan on a full intake and exhaust...... i want to plan ready and ahead to sort it out. i will be adding a carbon bonnet.
So with a carbon bonnet how would you work it?
Front mount intercooler and just go for what i think looks good
or
V mount with a open/vented carbon bonnet for the added breathing of the air going up?
or
is it the total opposite? i want the air in the engine bay with a v mount so would you keep a closed style bonnet with a v mount?
It's currently a twin turbo and will be staying this way for a while as i only want 300whp for now. with a complete intake, exhaust and a tune that should be pretty simple to get on a stock engine and turbos.
Also, what systems are out there for exhausts? i have seen catback systems but what about downpipes?
i'd want to go about 3.5inch full through exhaust, from the manifold back but unable to find any UK based sellers from my searches. is this something that would be best having it fully custom made? or would anyone recommend X type of exhaust to me?
05-03-18, 09:57 AM
#2
An aftermarket intake or modified stock intake that sources ambient air (not underhood air), a larger stock mount intercooler, 3” downpipe and decent cat-back will yield very close to your hp goals. Not a lot of bling and bragging, but it’s not a lot of money either. And doesn’t require cutting and fabbing for a front mount or V mount. Install a boost controller and standalone ECU. Keep a cat or be prepared to pull the turbos and port the wastegate to avoid boost creep. And search the FAQs for reliability mods like all metal radiator and AST, decent aftermarket temp gauge and silicone couplers and possibly vacuum lines.
Before you go crazy changing anything I strongly recommend you change ALL fluids, plugs and wires (leads), and download (and study) a copy of the Factory Service Manual from those same sticky’s.
Before you go crazy changing anything I strongly recommend you change ALL fluids, plugs and wires (leads), and download (and study) a copy of the Factory Service Manual from those same sticky’s.
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Gambles (05-04-18)
05-04-18, 09:56 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
An aftermarket intake or modified stock intake that sources ambient air (not underhood air), a larger stock mount intercooler, 3” downpipe and decent cat-back will yield very close to your hp goals. Not a lot of bling and bragging, but it’s not a lot of money either. And doesn’t require cutting and fabbing for a front mount or V mount. Install a boost controller and standalone ECU. Keep a cat or be prepared to pull the turbos and port the wastegate to avoid boost creep. And search the FAQs for reliability mods like all metal radiator and AST, decent aftermarket temp gauge and silicone couplers and possibly vacuum lines.
Before you go crazy changing anything I strongly recommend you change ALL fluids, plugs and wires (leads), and download (and study) a copy of the Factory Service Manual from those same sticky’s.
Before you go crazy changing anything I strongly recommend you change ALL fluids, plugs and wires (leads), and download (and study) a copy of the Factory Service Manual from those same sticky’s.
is that a good idea? or would you just enjoy the car and engine with 300/350ish and then go for a rebuild and single turbo at the same time?
05-04-18, 11:22 AM
#4
Awesome, thank you. I'm hoping to go larger goals like the 450 mark with a single turbo next year, maybe the year after though so i'm wanting to do supporting mods as i'm going. instead of a larger stock replacement intercooler that tops out about 350hp, i was thinking front mount that will go to my eng goal as well as be happy to stay at the current more than stock power mark.
is that a good idea? or would you just enjoy the car and engine with 300/350ish and then go for a rebuild and single turbo at the same time?
is that a good idea? or would you just enjoy the car and engine with 300/350ish and then go for a rebuild and single turbo at the same time?
before a FMIC.
On a streeted car a 350 hp engine will yield about 300 at the wheels. A lot of fun, usable power and likely a lot more longevity than your 450 whp (> 500 hp engine) car. But if you equate genitalia size with dyno sheets my recommendation won’t matter.
05-05-18, 03:00 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
If it’s a streeted car I’m personnaly not a fan of FMIC’s. They’re a huge heat-sink being placed in front of the radiator. They also compromise crash worthiness and expose expensive parts to debris and road-kill. For the same amount of plumbing, relocation and fabrication I think a V-mount is a much better choice. But it will cost you a little more. There are also good SMIC’s out there that yield decent IAT’s and again, personally, I’d go that route
before a FMIC.
On a streeted car a 350 hp engine will yield about 300 at the wheels. A lot of fun, usable power and likely a lot more longevity than your 450 whp (> 500 hp engine) car. But if you equate genitalia size with dyno sheets my recommendation won’t matter.
I do think i'll look to a stock mount though, everyone seems to say they have the best flow on them and still really good power from them on the twin core.
Plus with a vented bonnet to soak the heat away i definitely think it will be a good shout without being a heatsoaker like you say and/or blocking the rad.
05-06-18, 08:04 AM
#6
Supporting mods start with cooling. Larger radiator, hoses, emissions deleted and auxillary injection. But regardless, generally speaking more boost= more power=more heat stress= less longevity.
I do think i'll look to a stock mount though, everyone seems to say they have the best flow on them and still really good power from them on the twin core.
Plus with a vented bonnet to soak the heat away i definitely think it will be a good shout without being a heatsoaker like you say and/or blocking the rad.
Plus with a vented bonnet to soak the heat away i definitely think it will be a good shout without being a heatsoaker like you say and/or blocking the rad.
05-06-18, 12:54 PM
#7
Sgtblue is correct, i had a FMIC very good ducted and it blocked the radiator. The car was getting hot in the florida summer nights. Moved to v mount and was the best mod i had ever done. Stock or not its the best you can do with a bigger aluminum rad.
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05-07-18, 04:00 PM
#8
To be honest i want something shithot quick as well as built to last. Until i go single turbo and engine rebuild 350whp will be the limit i think. but for when i go more, i want to have supporting mods in from the start.
I do think i'll look to a stock mount though, everyone seems to say they have the best flow on them and still really good power from them on the twin core.
Plus with a vented bonnet to soak the heat away i definitely think it will be a good shout without being a heatsoaker like you say and/or blocking the rad.
I do think i'll look to a stock mount though, everyone seems to say they have the best flow on them and still really good power from them on the twin core.
Plus with a vented bonnet to soak the heat away i definitely think it will be a good shout without being a heatsoaker like you say and/or blocking the rad.
I have now swapped to a KKK single turbo and continue to track my fd through the dry months.
05-08-18, 04:38 AM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I tracked my standard seq twin for 4 years at 1.2bar boost without any issues whatsover .This was on a standard ported engine with a FMIC, bigger rad, WI, twinspark and 10 plugs allround along with many other track focused parts and AD08R tyres. Gambles do remember our climate in the UK is a lot different from these guys and the cooling demands for the US south coast cars must be pretty extreme. You can expect to achieve 300-350bhp from and standard ported twin turbo with a good dp back exhaust and a pfc mapped to below 1 bar. There are some excellent venders and tuners in the UK that can assist with your goals and all of them are down your end of the country.
I have now swapped to a KKK single turbo and continue to track my fd through the dry months.
I have now swapped to a KKK single turbo and continue to track my fd through the dry months.
although cars must need more extreme outthere, i guess we could take hints from that and if it works out in those heats, it works in the colder, UK temps! so definitely be looking towards that. what power were you running at 1.2bar on the stock twins may i ask? and also why recommend below one bar? what issues did you face with the build and mods you did for that stage?
05-08-18, 04:40 AM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I get it. But build it to a "shithot quick" standard, not the dyno sheet standard. That means suspension, wheels, tires...everything.
Supporting mods start with cooling. Larger radiator, hoses, emissions deleted and auxillary injection. But regardless, generally speaking more boost= more power=more heat stress= less longevity.
Some experienced owners will disagree, but IMO intercooler choices go like this: VMIC>SMIC>FMIC. A vented hood helps to keep pressure low in the engine bay. That aids the flow of air thru your radiator and intercooler. But aftermarket hoods, like body kits in general, vary in quality and all come with some issues.
Supporting mods start with cooling. Larger radiator, hoses, emissions deleted and auxillary injection. But regardless, generally speaking more boost= more power=more heat stress= less longevity.
Some experienced owners will disagree, but IMO intercooler choices go like this: VMIC>SMIC>FMIC. A vented hood helps to keep pressure low in the engine bay. That aids the flow of air thru your radiator and intercooler. But aftermarket hoods, like body kits in general, vary in quality and all come with some issues.
so i'm aiming more track and usable over the numbers on a dyno.
05-08-18, 10:21 AM
#11
At 1.2bar I had somewhere close to 400 UK bhp which is quite a difference from US dynojet figures. I'm not sure on the exact figure as I've found power figures from dynos very unreliable and easily manipulated to please the customer. My single is pretty small giving full boost before 3k and not really tapering off that much to redline. This suits my needs perfectly and is around the 420bhp mark.
if your set on keeping the tiny smic style intercooler or aftermarket smic then please look at WI. With my fmic i have never seen over 95 degree water temps on track but then the outside temp will only be sub 20s anyway. Ait with WI are obviously very low and usualy 5 degrees below ambient on boost.
the reason i mention 1bar on twins is because its usualy the benchmark for twins with bolt ons. This usualy gets around the 350bhp mark (for ref i had 326bhp @0.8bar with just an exhaust and a pfc many years ago).
Over a bar and fuelling/ign/cooling cant keep up so it starts to cost but all of these things will be used for the single eventuality.
if your set on keeping the tiny smic style intercooler or aftermarket smic then please look at WI. With my fmic i have never seen over 95 degree water temps on track but then the outside temp will only be sub 20s anyway. Ait with WI are obviously very low and usualy 5 degrees below ambient on boost.
the reason i mention 1bar on twins is because its usualy the benchmark for twins with bolt ons. This usualy gets around the 350bhp mark (for ref i had 326bhp @0.8bar with just an exhaust and a pfc many years ago).
Over a bar and fuelling/ign/cooling cant keep up so it starts to cost but all of these things will be used for the single eventuality.
05-08-18, 10:31 AM
#12
If you’re looking to lower IATs then consider auxiliary injection (AI) with up to 50% methanol. Alcohol is much more effective at cooling air temps. Water Injection (WI) can be introduced pre-intercooler to help with IATs, but maybe more often goes in post-IC/pre-throttlebody where it aids engine cooling, knock suppression and carbon control.
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