W/the sensor plugged in remove the vacuum hose and plug it. Then w/key to on take the voltage readings of the three wires. Green/Yellow is 3.4 to 3.6 volts. Brown/White is 4 volts and Brown/Black is 0 volts.

 

Take the volt readings from the under side of the connector on the MAP sensor or from the ECU?

 

You could try first at the underside of the sensor plug.

 

3.5/4.99/0 respectively. What's next? This is fun ^^

 

Take the reading at the ECU to verify the proper signal from the Green/Yellow wire is making its way to the ECU. The smallest ECU plug houses the Green/Yellow wire as it should be on the bottom row next to the Green/Red wire and below the Black/Green wire. Use the mounting bolts for the ECU as a ground source for the multimeter and then stick the Red meter lead into the back of the ECU plug and take a voltage reading. Also, make sure to plug the vacuum hose like before.

And make sure the wire/pin is not pulling out of the back of the plug thus making it hard for the ECU to receive the signal properly.

 

Okay so I went to the ecu with the MAP sensor still plugged in, vacuum line and all(guess I missed that part, oops) and turned the car to on. Highest reading I got from that line(mind you I tested it from the front and back of the connector and pushed the wire in and all that) was a .010 volts... Did I do something wrong or is that the true reading?

 

The vacuum hose needs to be capped and perhaps taking the reading w/the plug connected to the ECU and backprobe the G/Y wire.

 

3.50 on the dot. What's next?

 

You might want to disconnect the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes and then reconnect it and then recheck for codes and see if the code 13 pops up again. Your readings seem to be normal but maybe the pin was not making the best of contact w/the ECU.

 

Removed the negative terminal for like 3 hours today... Damn thing didn't wanna start after I put it back on lol. Checked codes again, check engine light goes on then shuts completely off. No flashing no solid signal nothing. Is that a good sign or a bad one?

 

Probably means no codes.

 

Well I'm glad that I cleared up the codes on there but the problems still persist. Let me just give a quick run down once more to make sure I didn't miss anything in the first post.

Won't idle when cold, have to give her a bit of gas to keep her up.
Will idle after being driven for about 5 minutes.
Idle is erratic, bouncing from 750-0 sometimes dying out in the process.
Will not drive under 3k RPM, almost feels like it needs more clutch(the whole stop and go thing like when you're first learning a standard)
Will sometimes cut out when hitting potholes and need to be revved high to reset.
Drives like **** when gas is low(like under quarter of a tank)
Slight oil leak I think it's coming from the oil cooler lines, getting that fixed this weekend.

With these symptoms, any further assistance. As always I really appreciate your help.

 

It could be many things but it sounds much like a fuel issue. Fuel pump, fuel sock, fuel filter, poor primary injector plug connection, loose wiring and so on.

 

So I've decided I'm going to clean/replace the fuel system this weekend. When looking into fuel pumps, what should I get to replace the stock NA pump? I was looking into some but from what I've heard just jumping to a bigger pump like a walbro 255 on an NA engine is going to be too much fuel and I would need an fpr aswell. So anything that you can recommend for replacing all the stock parts?

 

You're right about it being too much so stock is more than adequate as long as it works properly. There was a thread on another board asking about the fuel sock and why it creates problems and another poster replied that the sock is most likely dirty on the lower portion of it where the sediments in the tank collect and when the fuel in the tank is low the upper part of the sock which is less clogged pulls in air rather than fuel. Not sure if this is the cause but it sounds plausible.

 

bump