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89 convertible idle issues

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Old 11-01-11, 09:36 PM
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OH 89 convertible idle issues

I have a 89 vert with a s4 block and all the s5 parts swapped over, the car will start and run if I hold my foot on the gas, it will idle either at a constant 3000k but once it reaches 2500k it jus dies then wont idle at all, im bout fed up with this thing I've replaced every vac line new plugs new wires. Cleaned maf cleaned the throttle body I've got a brand new fuel pump fuel lines and filter , I've swapped some injectors out with other oem and same exact problem, so please please any info on any possible ideas would be great thanks. (Ill try to get my vid of the idle uploaded when I get home around 8am
Old 11-01-11, 10:59 PM
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What does "all the s5 parts swapped over" mean? You're using S5 manifolds, etc... on the block? Did you modify the rear iron to allow the UIM to bolt down all the way? Grinding is needed.

http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/intake.html

Click the modifications link at the bottom
Old 11-01-11, 11:11 PM
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Yes s5 manifold I used block off plate for the egr on the block I also grinded down to allow clearence on the rear iron I mean the car starts but doesn't idle at all n every thing I see on here or in the manual say to allow the car to idle before adjusting and I can't even get it to idle to do anything at all. ill post the vid when I get home unless I can figure it out how to attatch it from my droid 3
Old 11-01-11, 11:49 PM
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I read something awhile back about putting an s5 upper on an s4 keg.
the center iron I believe has a little sort of "nub"(raised surface) that won't allow the manifold to sit flush and it ends up creating a vacuum leak.If you grind down that part of the iron, the manifold will sit flush.Then you are good.
,maybe you could check that out?
Old 11-01-11, 11:58 PM
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I feel I have done everything accordingly grinded down the iron for uim clearence I checked every valve type actuator known to man on this thing made sure it works at the slightest pressure, im jus tryin to get this video posted then u will see what im talking about
Old 11-02-11, 08:09 AM
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here is the video sorry if i posted this the wrong way but hopefully someone can assist me (i do appreciate all the help over the years tho so far!, oh yea on a 2nd note i did put fuel in the tank right after taking this vid)
Old 11-02-11, 10:24 AM
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if the vid isnt working please let me kno and ill find another way to load it up on the site, Thanks again and hopefully someone can help me figure this damn thing out im really wanting to drive it for my daily
Old 11-02-11, 10:28 AM
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Jumper the fuel check connector and give it a whirl.
Old 11-02-11, 10:29 AM
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This is gonna sound dumb but what the hell is the fuel check connector?
Old 11-02-11, 10:53 AM
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The ECU on an S5 provides a ground signal to the Circuit Opening Relay which helps provide voltage to the fuel pump. W/o it the pump will run briefly then die out. The easiest way to check this is to locate the relay under the dash and just to the right of the steering column and jumper the two wires on the bottom row of the relay. The relay is Yellow and Black and has five wires, three on the top row and two on the bottom row. The two wires on the bottom row are a Black wire and a Brown wire and these are the two wires to jumper together.
Old 11-03-11, 07:47 AM
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well i tried jumpin the fuel check and still same thing, however i got it to somewhat idle at 2500rpms if it goes lower it spits sputters n shuts off, the exhaust is smoking quite a bit, it still seems outta time or somethin idk ima find some different vac lines n try that maybe they arnt tight enough and still allow vac leaks
Old 11-25-11, 12:44 PM
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I have a new update on the car, since i have last been on here i ordered the egr blockoff plate from mazdatrix (with gasket) i ordered all new vac hoses 3.5mm Inside Diameter from PolyPerformance (if they can withstand rally racing im sure they will do great for jus holding a vac. Well here is the new video, still cant figure out why and they hell its doing that, if someone is in the cincinati area or northern kentucky or wherever id be more than greatful if someone could check this out. Im about to just give up its really annoying me
**Again for a fyi, replaced every single vacuum line on the car, brand new spark plugs and wires, new fuel line and fuel pump and fuel filter, the MAF has been cleaned thoroughly as well as the throttle body, all actuators have been inspected and cleaned and work at the slightest pressure difference with no binding issues, new oil lines, also has fresh fuel, and new fuses. **

Old 11-29-11, 11:08 PM
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Any Ideas!? sorry for being annoying about it, but i switched out my tps to the other one i had and it still has same problem, it actually sounds like the car is reving then stops then revs then stops then revs then stops, i have no freakin idea
Old 11-29-11, 11:24 PM
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To keep it idling do you have to press down on the throttle just a fair amount or practically all the way?
Old 11-29-11, 11:30 PM
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it will idle SOMETIMES like when i first start it, After it does its warm up process it will slowly drop down then ones it hits either 2500 2000 or even 1700rms it either drops and dies out or it will sometimes hesitate around 2500 and 2000rpms then its fluctuates, its almost like there is a vacuum leak but there is absolutely no way in hell i took every precaution when re installing the manifolds for the 100th time lol, new gaskets and rtv, and made sure all ports on everything where clear and even the one on the throttlebody. But in all the answer to your question is i can barely press the throttle and it will idle, im thinking its either the grommets for the injectors or the maf is shot, because now if i unplug the maf it will idle at 1000rpms then when i hook it up it will die out.
Old 11-29-11, 11:32 PM
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its hard to explain, its like it idles when it wants to, sometimes it will idle and sometimes it wont, when i think its all good, i let it sit for a hr or so and then i restart it and its like everything is all outta wack again.
Old 11-29-11, 11:36 PM
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How long will it idle w/o the AFM hooked up? Does it idle during this situation w/o the foot on the throttle (in other words idle by itself). And does the Circuit Opening Relay have the jumper in place when it idles at 1000 w/o the AFM connected?
Old 11-29-11, 11:44 PM
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Without the AFM hooked up it will idle untill i shut the car off (but thats if the car wants to even idle, because thats the thing sometimes it will and sometimes it wont), When im talking about the car idling im speaking in terms of NO FOOT ON THE THROTTLE its the car under its own power. Circuit opening relay (meaning the fuel check?) iv tried with it in place and without and still the same thing, there is no difference. Tell you what tomorrow im going to take a video of the car in the engine bay when i get it to idle and ill show you what its doing.
Old 11-29-11, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 89_REX7
Without the AFM hooked up it will idle untill i shut the car off (but thats if the car wants to even idle, because thats the thing sometimes it will and sometimes it wont), When im talking about the car idling im speaking in terms of NO FOOT ON THE THROTTLE its the car under its own power. Circuit opening relay (meaning the fuel check?) iv tried with it in place and without and still the same thing, there is no difference. Tell you what tomorrow im going to take a video of the car in the engine bay when i get it to idle and ill show you what its doing.
When I said to jumper the Circuit Opening Relay did you ever do as suggested or did you only try to jumper the fuel check connector? These two things are related but they are located in two different areas. If you never jumpered the two wires I specifically stated to then try it.

Reread post #10.
Old 11-29-11, 11:58 PM
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Yes i jumped the Circuit open relay like you stated in post #10
Old 11-29-11, 11:59 PM
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The black and yellow plug the 2 bottom pins on it the colors are black and brown i jumped thoes 2 only. Was there another step to do?
Old 11-30-11, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 89_REX7
The black and yellow plug the 2 bottom pins on it the colors are black and brown i jumped thoes 2 only. Was there another step to do?
If the car will run w/o the AFM connected and the relay not jumpered then it appears your problem is AFM related. There is a way to test the AFM as stated in the FSM and you should follow this procedure. It's also possible that the AFM flap is not behaving properly and only staying open when the throttle is depressed but w/o this step the flap closes by itself which would shut the engine off.
Old 11-30-11, 12:23 AM
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ok ill refer to my FSM and see the proper procedure, I will follow up with a new video upon doing this procedure tomorrow, and we shall go from there. Thanks i greatly appreciate it Satch, and sorry for the description of whats going on its very hard to describe it without sounding like a complete idiot. I jus find it amazing how people do swaps and stuff but i cant get a freakin stock engine to function properly, these damn rotaries are a love hate relationship, im giving this car every fighting chance b4 i come to no choice and gotta sell it
Old 12-10-11, 05:58 PM
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You sent me a PM about how to jumper the Circuit Opening Relay but in reading through this thread you stated you already did this. Also, did you check the AFM according to the method described in the FSM, and if so, what results did you get?
Old 12-10-11, 08:52 PM
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well in the FSM it says to take the AFM to a dealer to have it serviced -page 127/128. So how do i check one since its not explaining how to?


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