satch

iTrader: (1)

Page 82.

https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0Bzy...kNTM4&cindex=4

Also, check the ECU pinout in the same section and it lists a couple or so pins related to the AFM and check them according to spec.

89_REX7

There isn't any file to open

satch

iTrader: (1)

It works for me. It's section 4A, which is the fuel and emissions control sysytems section.

89_REX7

Ah ok ill look in my manual I got at home then, thanks tho, jus by curiosity your don't think its the idle air control valve do ya?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The IAC is for emission purposes and "should not" be your problem.

The factory FSM is what you need to look at for if the manual you have is the Haynes manual then it will not have the information.

http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen

89_REX7

My readings from Ohming out my AFM, the threshold for testing is 200-1,000 for closed e2-Vs and 20-800 open for E2-Vs, 200-800 for E2-Vc open/closed
*afm closed*
pin #2 E2-Vs= 316 ohms
pin #3 E2-Vs= 316 ohms
pin #2 E2-Vc= 280 ohms
pin #2 E2-Vc= 280 ohms

*AFM Open*
pin#2 E2-Vs= 73 Ohms
pin#3 E2-Vs= 73 Ohms
280 ohms
280 ohms
So it looks as if this is good, but i dont know. I guess ill just wait for feedback

satch

iTrader: (1)

Look at the same section that had the info about testing the AFM and pull up the list of the ECU pinout list and compare your ECU readings to those listed in the FSM. Also, when was the last time the car ran properly and what was done to the car after that point? And make sure the spark plug wires are connected to their proper position and the same goes with the fuel injector wires and most definitely that the vacuum hoses are in correct order and not crossed up.

89_REX7

Ok ill check that when i get some time to work on it ill give you and update

89_REX7

ok i finally got some time and the ECU checks out perfectly, i tested the AFM, C.A.S, Circuit Opening Relay, and the Front and Rear primary and secondary injectors, and also the neutral switch. Everything checked out according to the FSM specs when the Ignition is turned to the ON position. i got another AFM from the junkyard but it seems to work just as the one i already had. any thoughts!?

89_REX7

oh i forgot to mention that the car is running very RICH..

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did you test the Water Thermosensor? Also, check to see if the injector plugs are on the right injectors. If you remove the plugs to the secondary injectors and then unplug the the plug at the ECU that houses the injector wires you can do a continuity test and if it rings out properly then you know the wire from the ECU is running to the right secondary injector. This won't work w/the primaries as they are harder to remove. And clogged injectors (primaries) might also be part of the problem. And have you checked the fuel pressure by any chance?

89_REX7

a buddy of mine came over today and asked if i had even tested fuel pressure and i haven't i guess that would of been a smart thing to check b4 going through all this crap, but at least when i get finished with this car i know what will work and what doesn't for sure. ill have to do that continuity test this weekend if i'm off work or maybe if i feel like it after work. Ill test everything accordingly as stated and go from there ill keep you posted with updates, and thank for your help so far it really means a lot

89_REX7

Ok update, i did a test on all my injectors Primaries and Secondaries (I had everything hooked up correctly) Continuity from the ecu to the injectors were good, i did a test on multiple other things as well. I tested the tps at the plug and this is what i got: (If looking at the plug) Top left-2F.......Top Right-2G...... ---These letter and number combos are from the FSM(online) on the ECU pinout diagram-page's 80/82---
***I also tested a few more things while i was there and had the manifolds off 2b,2c,2f,2g,2k,2L,2o,2p,3k,3m,3q and of course 3w,3x,3y,3z.***
Everything i tested was clearly working from the ECU to the plug's from which they were intended for, i havent got a fuel pressure gauge to test that or else id of done it also but this is what i have completed so far.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did this car ever run normally? Was the engine swap done by yourself? Is the engine a USDM version or a JDM version? If it is a Japanese spec engine then the fuel hoses are connected in the opposite manner as compared to the U.S. models (feed line would be closest to the firewall while a U.S. engine would have the return line closest to the firewall. What is the ECU number that you are using as well?

89_REX7

ah hell i didnt know that about the JDM motors yea the one i had is from the states because this one i swapped has the badging stamped on the keg, that might do it lol, ima go put all my manifolds and stuff back on and swap the fuel lines around

89_REX7

well swapping the fuel lines DIDN'T work for me the car would crank but not even fire, i switched em back and I'm still having the same issues as before

89_REX7

The ECU i am using is N353 and the spare one i have is a N351, the car will run normal and idle after it has been warmed up and i unplug the air flow meter, i can get the car to idle at 750 rpms (roughly) but it will idle i can give it throttle and it will rev up and settle back to what ever rpms i had it set at, and yes i did the swap myself

satch

iTrader: (1)

Not sure if your engine is a JDM but there are some ECU's which will not work w/the car, but am not sure which ones.

89_REX7

well i tried both ecu's and they both still have the same result, but how much psi should the fuel pressure be? And is there a definate way to find out if the engine is JDM? the original motor doesnt have any stamps or Identifications from where it came from, this series 4 keg has it stamped with Hiroshima japan mazda corp etc etc on top of the keg

satch

iTrader: (1)

If all the sensors are for the American version then a U.S. ECU should do the trick. When things become complicated is if the sensors came w/the JDM swap and a U.S. ECU is used.

The fuel pressureshould be close to 30 psi when idling but what you might want to look at is how the ECU pins read while idling as opposed to just w/the key to on. If the car can even idle rough w/the AFM connected you should measure the ECU pins especially related to the AFM. And by chance, is the AFM mounted so it's flat or is it at a crazy angle? And are you sure the CAS is stabbed properly. Taking the cover off while the Main Pulley is ligned up to the Yellow hash mark will tell you if it is or not.

Post #3

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/new-13b-first-start-loud-boom-timing-question-978911/

89_REX7

ok see this is where i am really confused, Ill set the pulley the the first mark (turning the engine over by hand clockwise) then i align the dot on the CAS then when i go to drop in the CAS the dial inside turns so i cant figure out if its supposed to do that. I marked the spots on the CAS dials where it is when i align the dot up and then when i drop it in the slot the dial will advance its self. I guess ill get the car to idle then i will check the pin readings again and see what the problem is, no the AFM is about at level as i can get it i even tried and aftermarket cone filter that i used off my other rx7 i had and used a level to level it out and still same result

satch

iTrader: (1)

You drop the CAS into its nesting place w/the top off so as to hold it manually into the proper position and then lock it down in place followed by putting the cover back on.

89_REX7

when i drop it in the nesting place and hold it manually it wont go in. Its almost like its off a tooth or something, tomorrow when i wake up ill make a video of it and post it up

satch

iTrader: (1)

Should have been asked much earlier but have you checked for trouble codes?

89_REX7

Where do i get a tester at?