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88 NA Starting Issues. NEED HELP PLEASE

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Old 01-31-13, 08:20 PM
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FL 88 NA Starting Issues. NEED HELP PLEASE

Hey guys I purchased 88 NA RX7 5 speed a couple days ago locally. The previous owner told me that it ran fine a couple days ago with 0 issues whatsoever until he went to turn it on one morning and it didn't want to start. He gave up on it since he couldnt afford to fix it. Ive done the "deflooding" method and replaced the plugs, wires and fuel pump. At first it would only start when I would use some starter fluid but would not stay on. I checked the fuel pump to see if it was working and notice it wasn't working at all. I decided to run the pump on a switch, after I did that it cranked right up and the rpm's went up to 3k and stayed on for maybe 3 seconds and then died. I tried it again and it didnt start up. What should be my next step?

Also the car completely stock except for an aftermarket air filter. Thanks in advance for any help!
Old 02-01-13, 09:38 AM
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Google the issues and a thread on here should come up. Iirc it can be caused by your AFM. Unless it sputters and dies out as you keep trying, you could just be low on gas? :/
Old 02-01-13, 09:43 AM
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Ive done alot of research and done most of what everyone has posted. I fill the tank half way. No sputtering when I did it last time
Old 02-01-13, 09:45 AM
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Can the AFM be cleaned?
Old 02-01-13, 12:43 PM
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Check for vacuum leaks.
Old 02-01-13, 08:27 PM
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Replace your fuel filter as well as check the sock on the fuel pump to make sure it isn't clogged up from rust/debris.

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Old 02-01-13, 10:36 PM
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Succes! Well atleast for a couple of minutes. I placed the stock filter box back on, found one vacuum hose disconnected so i put it back on and I deflooded it one more time and it turned on. Rpm's rose up to 1500 and stayed their, I then took my foot off the clutch and it rose to 3000 rpm's for a couple more minutes and then dropped to 1500 but didn't get any lower. I let it run until it stopped it smoking and revved it up with 0 issues. Sounds great with no hesitation at all. It got up to temperature and I decided to take it around the block. Mind you it still was idling at 1500. I press in the clutch and the rpms dropped to 500, the tranny/clutch started to make a weird sound. I let off the clutch because I was scared it was going to shut off. I tried it again and the sound began again and then the motor shut off. I tried to start it again but it didnt want to. Called it a night.

My guess is that something is up with the clutch also. Something that the previous owner wasnt clear with.

Can the tranny/clutch cause the motor NOT to turn over? And why do I have to deflood it so much?
Old 02-02-13, 12:31 AM
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If the noise goes away when you press the clutch and comes back when you let off it then its likely a bad throw out bearing.

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Old 02-02-13, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
If the noise goes away when you press the clutch and comes back when you let off it then its likely a bad throw out bearing.

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It does the opposite. Press the clutch it then makes the noise
Old 02-02-13, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by datjesus
It does the opposite. Press the clutch it then makes the noise
Opposite symptoms of TO bearing usually means input bearing on tranny. But TO bearings are usually made pretty cheap, could still be the cause. Glad you got the vacuum issue diagnosed, good work!
Old 02-02-13, 04:59 PM
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But will a bad TO cause the motor to shut off when you press in the clutch?
Old 02-03-13, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by datjesus
But will a bad TO cause the motor to shut off when you press in the clutch?
No. That would suprise me.
Old 02-06-13, 11:27 AM
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Update. I replaced the AFM and still having startup issues. It doesnt just startup, it takes a couple of minutes for it to start up. Even if I just shut it off and try to turn it on again immediately after. Also the idle wont drop from 1500 no matter how long it runs.

Something is definitely wrong with the transmission also. I press the clutch in the rpm's drop and starts to burn the clutch(atleast it smells like it). Order'd a new clutch, slave cylinder and master cylinder. Considering pulling the motor out also and starting fresh.

Any other recommendations?
Old 02-07-13, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by datjesus
Update. I replaced the AFM and still having startup issues. It doesnt just startup, it takes a couple of minutes for it to start up. Even if I just shut it off and try to turn it on again immediately after. Also the idle wont drop from 1500 no matter how long it runs.

Something is definitely wrong with the transmission also. I press the clutch in the rpm's drop and starts to burn the clutch(atleast it smells like it). Order'd a new clutch, slave cylinder and master cylinder. Considering pulling the motor out also and starting fresh.

Any other recommendations?
Sounds like mechanical damage to your friction disc. I bet you tore a spring out of it or something. Any rattling? Clutch have Some hard miles it? Cheap clutch?


This car is OBD I right? Any codes?


Try unplugging your AIV and see if the running conditions change. Could be a bad One, that can mess up your idle. Also, make sure your throttle body is reasonably clean and that the butterfly can move freely and close.
Old 02-08-13, 08:30 PM
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Pulled it into the garage today and degreased everything. Found it has an oil leak and bad grounds. Started the process of the tranny removal.

Today I notice this guy right here, I didnt noticed him before but I looks like its missing a couple bolts. Could someone tell me what it is and if it could be causing my issue?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/datjesus/8457662810/
Old 02-08-13, 09:42 PM
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That's your 5/6 port actuator where the rod is.

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Old 02-08-13, 10:45 PM
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Will it cause the motor not to turn on?
Old 02-09-13, 12:21 AM
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No that has nothing to do with the engine turning

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Old 07-07-13, 10:47 PM
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Update again. She's finally running and driving like normal. I did the fuel pump, clutch, slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, ground kit(ECU) and a grocery list of other stuff that I cant remember. Between the motor not receiving fuel(wired the fuel pump on a switch) and the bad throwout bearing, those were the main causes for it not running.

I found out the driveshaft was bad also. Found one locally and replaced it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/datjesus/9234298867/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ That used to be the throwout bearing.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/datjesus/9237079072/I also installed installed some coilovers and wheels
http://www.flickr.com/photos/datjesus/9234297117/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/datjesus/9237077260/
At first the car would go into limp alot. After I did the ground kit that went away. But im still having an issue with the idle being too low and ive tried everything suggested. I decided to open the ECU and see if maybe something was wrong.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/datjesus/9237077432/I found a couple bad resisters. I dont know if that is the source of my problem? And also ive noticed in videos that the idiot light and clock usually come on when the car is on acc. Mine has never turned on. My question is should I replace the ECU next? The car still runs, but like I said I cant get the idle to go up, I have to use a switch for the fuel pump and my warning lights dont come on. Any recommendations?
Old 09-01-13, 12:57 PM
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Idiot Lights

I actually got done fixing my warning lights on my S4. When you turn the key on the lights don't come on at all. I took out the idiot light display and took it apart and wound up re soldering the whole board because a lot of the solder points were cracked not making contact. (Common Issue). Re solder the board put it back together and make sure the prong connectors on the back are in all the way. Take your time removing the Display from the connector because its a pain in the *** Good Luck
Old 09-01-13, 04:38 PM
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Wow! That nasty universal joint is a good reminder for us all to check those regularly!
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