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87 turbo 2 NO Spark

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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 06:52 AM
  #1  
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From: va beach
VA 87 turbo 2 NO Spark

I have a 87 rx7
I have 12 v to both 2 prong connectors at the both coils but no spark I
I have spun the cas and the injectors are clicking as suppose to
what else should I check

I have also checked all fuses they are all ok so please point me in the right direction and help me figure this problem out thanks you all
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 03:16 PM
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From: pensacola fl
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Did u check for spark at the plugs? I know that trailing has to be grounded. Don't know about leading. I had same issue and just cleaned coil mount and surface and was good to go. hope this helps you some.
Tommy
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 07:22 PM
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From: va beach
Ima go in there and clean them tomarrow is there any way of testing coils to make sure thier ok and how exactly does the rx7 ignition work so key turned and crank sends voltage to coil then cas sends signal to the ecu witch in return sends it back to coil ? Id like to get this car going stock then rebuild port and so forth ima get angel motorsports to do work but id like to get it running first its driving me crazy its p rolly stupid simple and im looking over it this is my third rx7 but not had spark issues so this is new to me I also checked ground there good....
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 08:20 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by brando2468
Ima go in there and clean them tomarrow is there any way of testing coils to make sure thier ok and how exactly does the rx7 ignition work so key turned and crank sends voltage to coil then cas sends signal to the ecu witch in return sends it back to coil ? Id like to get this car going stock then rebuild port and so forth ima get angel motorsports to do work but id like to get it running first its driving me crazy its p rolly stupid simple and im looking over it this is my third rx7 but not had spark issues so this is new to me I also checked ground there good....
Correct. Have you checked for fuel? You might have an issue w/the AFM as it relates to supplying fuel. You can jumper the fuel check connector and attempt to start the car.

Is the engine possibly flooded? If so, they can be very hard to start. Make sure the plugs are dry. Pull the EGI Comp fuse and spray one to two seconds at most of starter fluid into the intake and see if the car starts briefly.

And as previously stated the coils need to be firmly bolted to the fender to receive a proper ground.

Last edited by satch; Jan 23, 2015 at 08:47 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 05:23 AM
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From: va beach
I have fuel and no its not flooded im just getting no spark I checked the boost sensor last night im only getting voltage to two wire there with key on is that correct one has 12 v and the other has 5 v
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by brando2468
I have fuel and no its not flooded im just getting no spark I checked the boost sensor last night im only getting voltage to two wire there with key on is that correct one has 12 v and the other has 5 v
The B/W wire receives 12 volts w/key to on and the Brown/White wire gets 5 volts so that is good. You need to address the issue of how the coil bolts to the fender to be grounded. The Green/Yellow wire at the lead coil should have voltage of either 0 volts or 5 volts (cannot remember) but as you turn the engine by hand w/key to on the value will flip very briefly to the other value before returning to the original value. This is the trigger for the coil to fire. You can rotate the alternator pulley to rotate the main pulley. You might want to validate that this happens.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 03:50 PM
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From: va beach
Ok so I cleaned the grounds and tested the green and yellow while turning motor over by hand I have 3. 9 volts to that wire what should I do now
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 05:55 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by brando2468
Ok so I cleaned the grounds and tested the green and yellow while turning motor over by hand I have 3. 9 volts to that wire what should I do now
You need to rotate the pulley long enough to see if the voltage changes. The change would be very brief. If you rotate the pulley and see that the main pulley is making a full revolution after full revolution but the voltage on the G/Y wire does not change then the coil is not receiving the trigger signal from the ECU.

Also test the Brown/White wire at the boost sensor w/key as it should have 5 volts. Your reading at the G/Y wire appears to be a little low so perhaps you have an issue somewhere else.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:04 PM
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From: va beach
If I do not have 12 v at 3l what should I do next
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:10 PM
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From: va beach
Boost sensor is 5 at brown white
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:14 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by brando2468
If I do not have 12 v at 3l what should I do next
How many do you have? Is the wire B/W?
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:16 PM
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From: va beach
I tested one revolution and it stayed at 3.9 v at g y wire at the coil
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:19 PM
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From: va beach
I have nothing now im testing it with the ecu completely disconnected with the key on if this is correct I have no voltage. ON the b /w wire I have 12 v
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:24 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by brando2468
I have nothing now im testing it with the ecu completely disconnected with the key on if this is correct I have no voltage
You're confusing me. What is the voltage on the B/W wire at pin 3I? You won't get any voltage at G/Y if you have the ECU unplugged.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:27 PM
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From: va beach
Originally Posted by satch
You're confusing me. What is the voltage on the B/W wire at pin 3I? You won't get any voltage at G/Y if you have the ECU unplugged.
Sorry man I was testing it wrong lol bw wire has 12v sorry
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 07:03 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Did you ever have spark? If you did, was there something you were working on that afterwards the problem became self evident.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 09:45 PM
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From: va beach
I bought the shell and bought a motor harness coil pacts ecu from someone different im going to post some pictures of some different plugs and wires that don't seem right to me
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 11:18 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
The harness connected to the CAS runs over to the area near the trailing coil. The plug has a Green, Blue, Red and White wires so both sides of the plug have these same matching colors. I've seen a previous member plug this harness from the CAS to the plug which should go to the trailing coil which has a Blue/Yellow, Brown/Yellow, Blue/Red and Yellow/Blue wires. Make sure you didn't make this same mistake.
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 01:56 AM
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From: va beach
Yeah I was receding through your threads cause you def know what your talking about lol and seen that ha ha but I had it correct ...... there's a few connectors that im unsure of as to were they go ill get them up later this afternoon thanks for all the info your giving me
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 06:41 AM
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From: va beach
So I need info on what these wires go to or if they are even used
Attached Thumbnails 87 turbo 2 NO Spark-1422188981081.jpg   87 turbo 2 NO Spark-1422189064128.jpg   87 turbo 2 NO Spark-1422189111300.jpg   87 turbo 2 NO Spark-1422189441877.jpg   87 turbo 2 NO Spark-1422189457908.jpg  

87 turbo 2 NO Spark-1422189500766.jpg  
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 09:43 AM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Some of the pics aren't clear enough so on each pic start at the top left and refer to it as pic #1 and proceed to the pic next to it and refer to it as pic #2 and so on. Then detail the color of each of the wires in the plug. This will make it much easier to help you. The last pic appears to have two wires w/a Black/Yellow and a Red/Green wire.
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 10:12 AM
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The 2nd pic has a plug w/just a Green wire. It should be for a temp sensor for the electric fan found on all autos and some if not most turbos. The sensor is located as part of the thermostat neck and it plugs into a pin sticking up from the housing. But this wire/plug has nothing to do with your issue of no spark.

The other plug appears to have a B/W wire and a Brown wire but cannot tell what the stripe color is of the Brown wire. If it is Red then do a continuity test from pin 1S (Brown/Red wire) of the ECU (ECU plug unplugged from the ECU) and the wire in the plug of the same color and if the meter rings out then that plug is for the port air solenoid.

Last edited by satch; Jan 25, 2015 at 10:17 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 10:18 AM
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From: va beach
Picture 1
Location.. passenger side by vacuum canister
plug .. 4wire square
wires in plug are .. g/wh g/y g. G/ bl

Picture 1
Same location
plug 2 wire
r/bl r/blog

Picture 2
2wire bl/w w
picture 2
one wire gr/bl

Picture 2
2wire
bl/w. Bl/r

Picture 3
1wire
b

Picture 4
Located by engine fuse box
2 wire oval
g. Bl/w
6 wires
b/w b/r. B b b/bl b/w

Picture 5
Located by throttle body
2wire
br/bl gr

Picture 6
Bl/yellow r/gr

picture 6
bl gr/ bl
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 10:51 AM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by brando2468
Picture 1
Location.. passenger side by vacuum canister
plug .. 4wire square
wires in plug are .. g/wh g/y g. G/ bl

Picture 1
Same location
plug 2 wire
r/bl r/blog

Picture 2
2wire bl/w w
picture 2
one wire gr/bl

Picture 2
2wire
bl/w. Bl/r

Picture 3
1wire
b

Picture 4
Located by engine fuse box
2 wire oval
g. Bl/w
6 wires
b/w b/r. B b b/bl b/w

Picture 5
Located by throttle body
2wire
br/bl gr

Picture 6
Bl/yellow r/gr

picture 6
bl gr/ bl
Not sure what that means. Black is denoted as B and Blue is denoted as L in the wiring diagrams. From glancing at the pic it appears to be B/R and R/B. Correct or not?
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 10:58 AM
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From: va beach
Correct
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