brando2468

Well I now have spark thanks watch with your help on determining the coils are bad .... but the car still wont start so I guess its on to the next step where to start

satch

iTrader: (1)

Possibly it is flooded, not receiving fuel, starter is not rotating the engine quick enough to start or compression is low. Make sure there is fuel flow. You can place the return hose in a jug and w/the fuel check connector jumpered and key to on the fuel ought to fill the jug rather quickly. Once you know the fuel is being supplied then go through the proper deflooding techniques and don't expect it to deflood once and it will automatically start up as it sometimes takes repetitive attempts at this procedure. Make sure the plugs are not wet as well.

brando2468

So I did a compression check I have 90 on 2 and 60-70 on 1 I have fuel as well

brando2468

I also checked for 12 v constant at primary injector pins at ecu its ok

satch

iTrader: (1)

You would have 12 volts w/key to on at all 4 injector wires. The primary injector wires would have close to 6 volts or so w/key to start which means the ECU is triggering these injectors.

brando2468

So what should I check next

satch

iTrader: (1)

If your compression is due to engine flooding or damaged seals then there's only so much you can do. You need to address this as opposed to perhaps ignoring it. Deflood the engine properly and use the oil as suggested and check the condition of the plugs. When you remove the plugs you can also remove the top plug on the front rotor and get a glimpse of the apex seals. Rotate the engine by hand so you can get a view of each of the 3 seals. If you see apparent damage then a rebuild is in order.

brando2468

I got it to fire up ran for 20 sec then cut off what should the next step to keeping it running be

satch

iTrader: (1)

You could have a vacuum leak or the primary injectors could be clogged or compression issue. If you believe the engine is now deflooded (meaning you didn't try to start the car over and over then maybe you can do another test on the front rotor to see if things improved or not. If the car hasn't run in a while you may have to defllood/oil a series of times. And if by chance you restart the car do not just let it idle but play w/the throttle to keep it running as long as you can if need be.

brando2468

Quick ? Would I need to have intecooler and bov to keep it running

satch

iTrader: (1)

If it's creating a vacuum leak then you need it.

brando2468

I think I found my problem possible so took my intake off and tested my injectors only two are getting ground signal when turning cas those should be my primaries correct now the other two only work after 3000 rooms correct there's two looms for injectors are those separated into primary loom and other is for secondary ?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You're not going to spin the CAS fast enough to get the secondaries to fire besides they also need load to work so you did not come across anything out of the ordinary.

brando2468

Ok awesome I had a darn primary on the secondary injector would that cause the problem I jad not saying running

brando2468

Threw all the getting mad moments and frustrations I finally got this thing running thanks izzy for the coil packs and a specail thanks to satch hope I spelled it right lol so I had no spark at first and was guided threw testing we found out it was coil pack bad so I ordered it and when I installed the pigtails on injectors I put them on back wards lol so everyone messes up I've learned alot from the ones who helped thank you so very much

satch

iTrader: (1)

Go team!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

brando2468

Hey stach ? For you can you help me out with cluster not working blower not working and wipers thanks

satch

iTrader: (1)

Gauge cluster works off of the meter fuse. Using the advanced search feature will help you find numerous threads dealing w/these very same issues.