TURBO2FC

Interior

Interior

Exterior


Hey everyone thanks in advance so I recently purchased a 87 turbo two from a little old lady with 87xxx miles got car and the fuel pump was bad upon inspection I noticed tank was disgusting car had sat for a couple years so I dropped the tank and pressure washed out what seemed to be 10lbs of rust let air dry in sun for a couple days and put tank back in car along with a new fuel pump well dumbass me forgot to change the fuel filter so I started car it idles fine on cold start but after warming up idle drops to between 750-0 and sometimes dies out car won't go over 4500 under load seems as tho it hits a fuel cut or some sort of limp mode any suggestions?

Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

Hello Turbo2,

It was hard to understand your problem when reading through the massive run-on sentence. Does the below summarize your problem?

1. You recently purchased an 87 T2 with 87k mi.
2. You noted it had a bad fuel pump.
3. The gas tank looked disgusting.
4. Gas tank was cleaned - removed a lot of crud/rusted things
5. Fuel pump replaced.
6. Fuel filter not changed.
7. Car idles fine on cold start.
8. After warm up, car idle drops below 750 RPM and may die.
9. Engine will not rev above 4500 RPM under load.
10. You suspect the fuel cut or limp mode causes the rev limiter.

My questions for you:
A. Do you have a copy of the FSM (Factory Service Manual)?
B. How did you verify the fuel pump was bad?
C. What fuel pump did you use as a replacement?
D. What is the idle RPM during cold start? Idle speed is typically 750 RPM for manual trans and 900 RPM for auto trans.
E. Have you looked up any Fuel pressure/performance test procedures from the FSM?
F. What did you find from these tests?

BTW, your car looks really clean!

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

5. I think he meant the pump sock but I'm betting the filter hasnt been changed either.

TURBO2FC

First thanks for the response,Secondly grammar not my strong suit.
So please excuse me as i try and break it down in steps like you did for me
1.Purchased car from a lady was not running at the time towed vehicle home
2.put new battery in the car
3 car would crank but not fire had my brother put hand on fuel pump and could not feel or hear pump kick on
4.spayed tiny bit of either in intake car fired up
5. pulled fuel pump removed it tested pump with a power source and nothing
6 so replaced it with a pump from autozone along with strainer
7.when i pulled the pump the tank stunk of bad gas looked inside tank and saw nothing but rust handfulls of it!
8 drained remaining 7 gallons from the plug in the bottom of tank
9 dropped the tank and pressure washed the tank out till it was nice and shinny
10.put the tank back in filled with 93
11 started car and thought all was well car idled at about 3000-2500 for the first 30-45 seconds then fell to about 1000,Held for about 5 mins the started bouncing between 750-0
12 did this again the very next morning and car idled fine let car warm up and took for maiden voyage
13 drove about 3 miles and tried to go for a wot car then fell on its face at 4500 rpms like i was hitting rev limiter or fuel cut
14 went home and found there was on board fuel filter pulled and more rust fell from it replaced it and car still does the same
15 found in the vehicle service records from new in 87 till 2016 when it was parked lady kept amazing records so vehicle was well maintained
16 car is 100% bone stock from what i can tell

TURBO2FC

both pump sock and filter has been changed

TURBO2FC

Hey thanks for the response found a Chilton book in vehicle so I have been referencing that.just bought a new set of ngk plugs I am going to pull the old ones out this evening and check for fouling and such my first rotary so I am a noob. If it was a Subaru boxer engine could pull apart blindfolded! Did notice temp gauge is not working when I pull the front sensor wire by fill neck fan turns on right away, so I beleive from what the Chilton books says rear sensor is what gives gauge the reading so I don't believe it is that. I am going to put together a diagnostic led pig tail so I can read the ecu codes and see if any apear car sat for a couple years so I am going to try and see if some sort of sensor is bad

Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

Hey there Turbo,

I appreciate the info but please...think back to elementary school and recall proper grammar & sentence structure! LOL...you are killing me here!

I would recommend that you download the FSM and dig through Section F, Fuel and Emissions Control. It will help you diagnose any problem with fuel delivery and fuel starvation.

Is your CEL (Check Engine Light) currently on? If not, then rigging up a CEL pig tail will not help at this time. Remember, prior to 1996, OBD requirements were primitive and unique to each manufacturer. The requirement for OBD2 compliant ECUs does make engine troubleshooting much easier on cars built after 1996 but it won't help your present situation.

FYI, during a cold start, the car uses AWS (Accelerated Warm-up System). The engine will rev up to 3k RPM then fall to idle after 15+sec (don't remember the specific time). Therefore, that is a normal indication. The intent of this feature is to warm up the main cat quickly so it can convert CO, NOx, and other pollutants more efficiently.

Getting back to your idle problem, the FSM has a troubleshooting guide in Section F, look around Pg F2-76. Look specifically for "Engine does not run smoothly (Only when engine is cold)" and "Lack of power, poor acceleration or hesitation". This chart will help you check suspect components in a logical manner. It's good to have the Chilton's manual but it will not have specific troubleshooting guides like the FSM!

After you inspect/replace the spark plugs (make sure that you install the proper plug into the proper hole - there are 2 different types of plugs, one for Leading and one for Trailing), verify that the airflow meter is good and check for vacuum leaks.

Let us know what you find.