87 rx7 n/a electrical problems
02-17-13, 09:25 PM
#26
Junior Member
Having replaced LH RH switches for lights.. and wired around a faulty latch circuit to get the high-beams working (THanks JackHeld!
now I have a new mole to whack.
Tonight I'm experiencing this ignition problem. Put key in, all power dies (gauges interior lights etc.) wait a few minutes and then it starts. Drove home and happened again this time, car lost power and took longer to cycle before it would drive again. Also possibly related idle was very low after it did start.
I looked through the glove box and found a reference to an "ignition problem" that seems to have been "fixed" by wiring in a jumper wire to a loose harness that I can't identify. I'll try to trace back tomorrow but:
1) I can start the car without the clutch depressed (clutch pedal switch closed?);
2) There seems to be a short in the harness hack as the car wouldn't start at first then I pressed in on the harness then it did start.
Assuming the above is a short in the harness hacked wire (easily fixed) I don't understand the new power cutting out, cycling and reappearing issue. That seems like a bad relay?? Suggestions on diagnosing these two (separate and independent??) issues appreciated.
<rant>The level of crappy that the S5 computer seems to have demonstrated in the switches and "CPU" is really sapping my interest in keeping this.. if every system in the vehichle requires me to jumper and put toggle switches on every circuit. Before long the thing will look like and old PD9 on the dash board! </rant>
Thanks all--and this forum is amazingly informative! The FSM wiring was confusing me as I have an S5 and my lighting issues were a variant, but happy to hear if there are S5 vert wiring differences with this as well.
now I have a new mole to whack.Tonight I'm experiencing this ignition problem. Put key in, all power dies (gauges interior lights etc.) wait a few minutes and then it starts. Drove home and happened again this time, car lost power and took longer to cycle before it would drive again. Also possibly related idle was very low after it did start.
I looked through the glove box and found a reference to an "ignition problem" that seems to have been "fixed" by wiring in a jumper wire to a loose harness that I can't identify. I'll try to trace back tomorrow but:
1) I can start the car without the clutch depressed (clutch pedal switch closed?);
2) There seems to be a short in the harness hack as the car wouldn't start at first then I pressed in on the harness then it did start.
Assuming the above is a short in the harness hacked wire (easily fixed) I don't understand the new power cutting out, cycling and reappearing issue. That seems like a bad relay?? Suggestions on diagnosing these two (separate and independent??) issues appreciated.
<rant>The level of crappy that the S5 computer seems to have demonstrated in the switches and "CPU" is really sapping my interest in keeping this.. if every system in the vehichle requires me to jumper and put toggle switches on every circuit. Before long the thing will look like and old PD9 on the dash board!
</rant>Thanks all--and this forum is amazingly informative! The FSM wiring was confusing me as I have an S5 and my lighting issues were a variant, but happy to hear if there are S5 vert wiring differences with this as well.
If the car was previously an auto then it would have been likely that the clutch would not need to be depressed when starting which is why I asked.
You have a Neutral Switch on the standard transmission as well.
W/the key to on do the wipers or turn signals work. If not then make sure the Main fuse is good. If the fuse is good then make sure that the intermediate connector located a foot below the engine fuse box is mated properly. If the Main fuse is good then both sides of the Black connector, which mates two thick Black cables/wires, would have constant voltage. If only one side has constant voltage then there is a poor connection at this particular plug. This wire powers the Ignition Switch.
You have a Neutral Switch on the standard transmission as well.
W/the key to on do the wipers or turn signals work. If not then make sure the Main fuse is good. If the fuse is good then make sure that the intermediate connector located a foot below the engine fuse box is mated properly. If the Main fuse is good then both sides of the Black connector, which mates two thick Black cables/wires, would have constant voltage. If only one side has constant voltage then there is a poor connection at this particular plug. This wire powers the Ignition Switch.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
