87 rotary health check
#1
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87 rotary health check
Car has some miles (155k) and I know its getting near its time to most likely rebuild, but it runs SOO good warmed up. However I have some questions about my rotary's health before I do unrebuildable damage to my engine.
couple question which I will follow up with a video of a cold start (my main fear is here)
1) My oil never seems to go black, ever. I have put close to 2k miles on this oil change, and Have owned the car for a year. Previous owner gave the car to me with a fresh oil change from the dealer. Is this strange? I have to add every so often (not much though) and the oil does not have a distinct smell to it other then oil. It just never gets "dirty".
2) And this I will follow up with a cold start video in the next day or so. When starting for the first time after a day or so, it cranks and fires like it should, runs up to 2k for a few seconds, and starts to drop down like it should, however if I just let the idle drop down to 1500-1000 like it should, every so often it will fall on its face unless I "lightly tap" the gas pedal. After the "light tap" it holds like it should, and runs through the initial warm up process.
The car seems to run like it should otherwise. This is my first rotary engine and through research on here I know I am getting due for a rebuild at some point, but I will be rebuilding my s5 turbo II engine before this ol N/A.
3) also on first start up, A bit of whiteish smoke, but I believe its just moisture because it goes away once I start driving and never comes back. No other smoke besides that.
Thanks in advance to you rotary wizards for any input on my engines health.
couple question which I will follow up with a video of a cold start (my main fear is here)
1) My oil never seems to go black, ever. I have put close to 2k miles on this oil change, and Have owned the car for a year. Previous owner gave the car to me with a fresh oil change from the dealer. Is this strange? I have to add every so often (not much though) and the oil does not have a distinct smell to it other then oil. It just never gets "dirty".
2) And this I will follow up with a cold start video in the next day or so. When starting for the first time after a day or so, it cranks and fires like it should, runs up to 2k for a few seconds, and starts to drop down like it should, however if I just let the idle drop down to 1500-1000 like it should, every so often it will fall on its face unless I "lightly tap" the gas pedal. After the "light tap" it holds like it should, and runs through the initial warm up process.
The car seems to run like it should otherwise. This is my first rotary engine and through research on here I know I am getting due for a rebuild at some point, but I will be rebuilding my s5 turbo II engine before this ol N/A.
3) also on first start up, A bit of whiteish smoke, but I believe its just moisture because it goes away once I start driving and never comes back. No other smoke besides that.
Thanks in advance to you rotary wizards for any input on my engines health.
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We used a piston style compression checker awhile back and both housings were 75ish across the board. I am not 100% that my buddy did the check correctly though.
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On the other hand I have read too that you can use the bounce of the needle on a piston compression gauge to get an idea of whats going on inside. Im still reading up on that.
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1) My oil never seems to go black, ever. I have put close to 2k miles on this oil change, and Have owned the car for a year. Previous owner gave the car to me with a fresh oil change from the dealer. Is this strange? I have to add every so often (not much though) and the oil does not have a distinct smell to it other then oil. It just never gets "dirty".
2) And this I will follow up with a cold start video in the next day or so. When starting for the first time after a day or so, it cranks and fires like it should, runs up to 2k for a few seconds, and starts to drop down like it should, however if I just let the idle drop down to 1500-1000 like it should, every so often it will fall on its face unless I "lightly tap" the gas pedal. After the "light tap" it holds like it should, and runs through the initial warm up process.
3) also on first start up, A bit of whiteish smoke, but I believe its just moisture because it goes away once I start driving and never comes back. No other smoke besides that.
#10
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thanks all for the replies. TYVM Aaron for chiming in. This makes me feel a bit more relieved now. I do have to add oil every other fill up, but nothing drastic. Was previously owned by an older gal whom was the original owner and used it for a daily driver. I don't think she ever red lined the car, or very little.
I will check out the thermo wax and throttle body, That was my suspicion as well.
Thanks again!
I will check out the thermo wax and throttle body, That was my suspicion as well.
Thanks again!
#11
Car has some miles (155k) and I know its getting near its time to most likely rebuild, but it runs SOO good warmed up. However I have some questions about my rotary's health before I do unrebuildable damage to my engine.
1) My oil never seems to go black, ever. I have put close to 2k miles on this oil change, and Have owned the car for a year. Previous owner gave the car to me with a fresh oil change from the dealer. Is this strange? I have to add every so often (not much though) and the oil does not have a distinct smell to it other then oil. It just never gets "dirty".
1) My oil never seems to go black, ever. I have put close to 2k miles on this oil change, and Have owned the car for a year. Previous owner gave the car to me with a fresh oil change from the dealer. Is this strange? I have to add every so often (not much though) and the oil does not have a distinct smell to it other then oil. It just never gets "dirty".
#12
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So after Aaron's post, I still need to check my throttle body for hangups. but here is the start up video as promised. Pretty sure at this point though my motor is doing fine, or rather as fine as it can at 155k
Vid link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ts-dM...ature=youtu.be
Edit,
which code is normal to use for embed on here? neither seemed to work. Sorry
Vid link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ts-dM...ature=youtu.be
Edit,
which code is normal to use for embed on here? neither seemed to work. Sorry
Last edited by archaphil; 05-27-13 at 10:33 PM. Reason: I cannot embed on here apparently. use old cold or...?
#13
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Rotaries blacken oil slower than piston engines if my source is right. And if you're dilluting it with clean oil every other fill up, then thats most likely why it looks like it stays clean longer. How much oil does it consume?
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Assuming you get 22 mpg average, thats a quart of oil per 3400 miles. Sounds healthy to me. Rotaries are designed to burn just about as much as yours does. If it leaked any, you'd probably have to top it off irritatingly often.
Last edited by Whammo; 05-29-13 at 11:13 PM.
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I noticed the oil metering pump was a tad wet. I am not sure if its the lines from the oil squirters where they attach to it, or a seal. I need to get out my degreaser and pressure wash the pig down and go for a drive.
The car runs **** though is the boggling part. Would the OMP not "squirting" as much as it should do to a small leak damage anything internally? I mean, It does still consume. Previous owner never got into the higher revs as far as I know. I on the other hand get into redline frequently.
but 1/4 quart every 2 is normal?
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the engine will consume about a quart?...per a couple thousand miles?
been a while for me on that aspect as I went Premix ages ago and haven't looked back at those stupid plastic lines!
Yes,seeking leaks at the OMP can Lead to internal damage If not attended to,so you'd be best off to look at that problem.You can Premix in the meantime but that just puts off the inevitable of fixing the leak at the OMP anyways..and if it is a S5 then something is gonna bite you soon enough.
Try to use a controlled spray,so you don't have an electrical stuff getting wet.
The engine doesn't like that..see threads in this section..
been a while for me on that aspect as I went Premix ages ago and haven't looked back at those stupid plastic lines!
Yes,seeking leaks at the OMP can Lead to internal damage If not attended to,so you'd be best off to look at that problem.You can Premix in the meantime but that just puts off the inevitable of fixing the leak at the OMP anyways..and if it is a S5 then something is gonna bite you soon enough.
Try to use a controlled spray,so you don't have an electrical stuff getting wet.
The engine doesn't like that..see threads in this section..
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its an S4 NA. Ill get it cleaned up tonight and cruise around this weekend to track it down. I should look into blocking off the OMP permanently for my s4 NA and my S5 TII that's waiting for a rebuild.
Time for research. Thanks again guys.
Time for research. Thanks again guys.
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