Lewij9

Car is completely stock and non-turbo.

Hello all, yesterday I got to drive this baby around for a test drive(rode rough but it had been sitting for 6+ years). As the owner went to pull it up on my trailer it stalled and never started back up. He claimed "Ahh, I flooded it but it will be fine in a few hours". I thought I remember people saying that the rotary engine will not deflood itself like the typical piston engine would but I'm not 100% sure.

When I got home from work today I decided to go ahead and change out the 4 spark plugs and the wires (wouldn't hurt, I thought...it has been sitting for a long while anyway)

I pulled the first plug out and it was completely doused in gas, I mean 5 drops of black liquid came off of the plug itself. I also noted that the plug was an NGK-R BR8EQ-14.

First Question: Is this the typical spark plug that you guys run in these or is there something else that I should be looking for? Neither Advanced Auto nor Auto Zone claimed to have this plug.

Second Question: Is this potentially only a flooding issue or could something else be majorly wrong down in there? I have not had the chance to do the compression test but I will do that tomorrow.

At this point I guess I am just worried that something is terribly wrong with my new car so I'm looking(hoping) for some reassurance.

I can post pics of anything that you would like, just let me know.

Thanks!

Lewij9

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Never seen an NGK-R version of the plug but the rest of the numbers are correct for your car. Rest assured, the beast is thoroughly flooded. I found this post to help you out. This happens to a LOT of folk, so you're not alone!

From some time ago:

Let's Unflood the Beast, Shall We?

Mario III

Lewij9

If this fixes my issue I will owe you big time!! I'm going to order the 4 spark plugs tomorrow morning so that I can get working on this asap. I will reply to this topic and let you know how everything went.

Thanks again!!

Lewij9

Bad news all.

I did the steps as you suggested but it still didn't fire. I then had one of my brothers friends come over and look at it. I am 100% a rookie with carburetors but apparently he is not. (He is a diesel mechanic but he already knew a lot about my car motor etc once he saw it so I think he is just an all around type).

Once he looked in the carburetor he told me that he believes it is my problem. As he described it "My floats are stuck as well as my butterflies in my secondaries"??? He couldn't even force them open. Apparently meaning that when I turn the key on, it dumps fuel but has nowhere to go resulting in a large pool of gasoline inside of my carb. <-- not good? I would have no idea but it doesn't sound good. I just assumed that the barrels on the passenger side were supposed to stay full like that.....

As of right now I do not have the money to get a new carb nor do I have the skill to rebuild it. I have seen sterlings website but I don't know if I trust myself with that.

FYI - I did do a compression test as well as a test to see if I am getting spark and they both passed with flying colors.

Question: After I have my carb fixed/rebuilt/whatever, should I go to a 2-cycle oil or engine oil? I know this debate goes back and forth but I think that my OMP is also out so is 2-cycle automatically the beneficiary? This car will only be driven on nice summer days, not in rain, not in cold etc.

Do you think that it would be best to just suck it up and try to rebuild it anyway? My biggest fear is taking off all of those hoses and springs then having no clue where they go once its all completed.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=162062

Lewij9

I have actually read that, which is how I knew that my compression was good. The place that I'm stuck at right now is that my carb is messed up. I plan on removing it today (SLOWLY) and taking a lot of pictures to keep myself sane. I am also going to number each wire as I pull it off then put them on in reverse order once I'm finished rebuilding my carb. I noticed on sterlings website he mentioned that I should remove the emission/rats nest first but since I don't know how well my car is going to run with that still in there, I think I'm just going to leave it in there until it at least starts then go from there.

I do appreciate the link though very much!!

Veteran input/tips and tricks on removing a carb for your first time is greatly appreciated.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Jeez, I wish you were in the neighborhood...get someone in your car, then pull the air cleaner completely off and look down inside the carb. The choke should not be applied, the key shouldn't even be in the ignition. The holes of the carb are "plugged" by two rotating plates at the bottom of their bores. Those are the butterflies. Have your friend simply mash on the gas, remember, the key isn't even in the ignition at all, and observe behavior down those carb bores.

Do the plates move at all? If not, then your friend has snapped the accelerator cable or it was already broken. If they moved, then your mechanic friend needs to stay away from your car.

Tell us what happens...better yet, make a short vid and post it.

I have never had the "trick" not work on a good engine, even with a crappy carb that needed a rebuild.

Lewij9

They definitely did not move at all, I have already remove the carb out of the car but I can definitely say that it needs a rebuild. Here is a picture of it, you can see the gasoline pooled up in the secondaries and...well yeah it needs work.

After I pulled it out, I turned it over, you could see where the secondary butterflies had sort of formed themselves into the body of the carb. There is no way that they were going to move...so I'm going to try and rebuild it, worst case scenario??? I buy a sterling in a month or so !

Does this carb being all screwed up make sense as to why (when my car ran) it would run very well on high rpms but really bad at low rpms and then it would have trouble starting? Or could this just be one of many things going on with my "project car"?

I hope I get to drive this thing before winter lol.

Thank you for your input so far, I really appreciate it.

Kentetsu

Yeah, a clogged carb can cause all kinds of issues. Rebuilding is not all that hard, just make sure that you have a good area to work in, and take your time. Sterling's tutorials will be a big help to you throughout the process.

Make sure that you remove the fuel jets from the float bowls and give them a good cleaning, just don't damage them by using something hard and sharp. A wooden toothpick is a good tool to use in conjunction with some good cleaner.

You've got two weeks to get her together, then bring her up to Lansing for the autocross.



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