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'83 GSL carb issue

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Old 08-02-13, 08:04 PM
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FL '83 GSL carb issue

Let's see if i can describe this right . I've been beating my head against a wall. Before anyone says search i have multiple times. The carbs been rebuilt and adjusted. It idles good somewhat other than a little quiver, the problem i'm facing now is when it's cold with the choke on the carb has gas coming out of the primary jet on the #2 side(the one closest to the firewall) and the #1 doesn't have that, is that normal? I'm not sure hence the reason i'm asking.
The other problem i'm having is when looking down the primaries when running and hittin the throttle the #2 primary flows quite a bit before the #1 primary and stumbles unless eased into or feathered. I'm not quite sure what the deal is I went through it with a fine toothed comb about a dozen times now, maybe i missed something.
Ok the mods are rasts nest removed, cats gutted and smog pump is no-longer.
Thank-you for any and all help and suggestions
Old 08-02-13, 09:47 PM
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The primaries, and the secondaries too, should issue fuel equally. As to the stumble, is the accelerator pump squirting when you twist the throttle?
Old 08-03-13, 02:04 PM
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Yeah the accell pump squirts when i hit the gas (as soon as i hit the gas), it does not have a real powerful squirt though(not sure about how strong it's suppose to be) but it does have a steady stream. Thanx again for any and all help
Old 08-04-13, 02:44 PM
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Sounds like you are on the right track. I had some similar issues when I rebuilt mine last summer. I rebuilt it again and everything was good the second go round. Didja soak everything good, clean all the tiny passages with guitar string or similar?
Old 08-05-13, 01:32 AM
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I'm sure i cleaned everything real well. I let it sit in degreaser (The industrial purple stuff) for aleast half hour .Then blew it out with compressed air and rinsed it real well. But it's possible i missed something. I'm hoping to take it out to a few meets this summer if i can get this problem fixed(atleast i think it's a problem I realize it's not going to run like new but close would be nice). I'll try taking it apart again maybe i will not feel like i'm beating my head against a wall lol. Thanx for the help and any more you can offer
Old 08-05-13, 01:17 PM
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If the throttle is opened quite fast the the squirters should almost splash a few tiny drops out the top of the carb throat . depending on the carb ,( you never told us what you have ). before you tear everything down check and make sure the steel ball is in the acc pump and the spring is in the acc pump diaphragm
without comparing to the adjustment procedure ( sometimes if the carb linkage has a bit of wear the adjustment procedure as is described in the carb kit instructions is not adequate )the acc pump should start to work just a tad after the throttle starts to move . have a good one good luck .
Old 08-05-13, 01:35 PM
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Yeah sorry about that It's a stock NIKKI. I would post a video but I've never done that before. I know It's hard to describe with just text but I'll see if I can figure that out and try to get one posted. Thanx again for all the help
Old 08-05-13, 03:50 PM
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Have you driven it? Put a can of seafoam in the tank and go for a long drive, see what happens.
Old 08-05-13, 04:12 PM
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I have run seafoam through it but unfortunately I can not drive it as it's not registered yet i was hoping to get these bugs worked out first. I took some vids today before the rain started hopefully you can see the issue.
Hopefully these will be of some help
Old 08-05-13, 09:36 PM
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Cookboy is right everything should have the same flow as it's brother weather its squirters or secondary The squirters should have a nice SPRAY not a little **** like it has in the vid , from what I've found the little engines need a goodly shot of fuel to help them respond well . After all they are thirsty little buggers .

Me thinks you should start over and go over the whole thing , making sure the float is also set proper .

Can you bring the engine to a heavy miss or even a stall by turning either mixture screw in ( one at a time ) when engine is at a proper idle setting ?? the idle mixture screws should be turned out until the engine makes no further attempt to run smoother and then just back until you notice the engine pull down just a little . A turn and one half out from being bottomed is a good place to start and then just work it from there . if you can't achieve this procedure you most likely have a bit of a vacuum leak also .

Engine degreaser is not a carb cleaner and could have very well got into some of the passage ways and stayed there . Carb cleaner should be used to clean a carb and not just sprayed it should by rights be submersed in carb cleaner for 20 minutes or so flushed well with water and blow dry . At the very least get a can or two of carb cleaner and be persistent at spraying the tiny passages , let sit for a minute or so and repeat until you are sure they are clean .. rinse and blow dry Of course you need to totally dismantled the carb to do this procedure as the cleaner will screw gaskets and rubber components and spraying down the throat does nothing but rinse the intake runners and send all into the engine .
Old 08-06-13, 07:35 PM
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Well i took it apart again today let it sit in carb cleaner for awhile.Got it all cleaned out, took carburetor cleaner in a spray can and sprayed every port, put it back together and installed it. Now the accelerator pump is better than it was, but now I have a ton of vacuum leaks i need to fix if i can find them they're not big leaks but do show up when i spray the carb down with it running.
Oh and gerald m, yeah i can turn the mixture screw until it dies (in and out) I have it set decent right now considering i think lol, will know more when i hunt these little leaks down and plug them. Thanx again for all the help keep it coming
Old 08-06-13, 10:36 PM
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wouldn't hurt to check the brake booster line all the way from the booster to the rear of intake manifold . Don't let it **** ya . just keep at it you'll get it . one thing at a time .check everywhere that vacuum lines go . Unless they have all been replaced , sometimes they break just working around them .
Old 08-07-13, 12:37 AM
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Thanx for the kind words gerald m it is pissing me off lol. It's all these little things that either pop up or were otherwise being masked by other problems. I'll get it looked at in the morning.
Old 08-07-13, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by lphillips
Thanx for the kind words gerald m it is pissing me off lol. It's all these little things that either pop up or were otherwise being masked by other problems. I'll get it looked at in the morning.
Words of wisdom..(or just plain old stubborn attitude!):
Once you figure out What is what,how to fix "that" and how to keep "from Doing That" ,on these cars..YOU Can work on ANYTHING!
Funny after 8 years staring at the same car, I look at a Piston engine now and go "what the freak is that?"..lol..(what does that do???)
Old 08-07-13, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
Words of wisdom..(or just plain old stubborn attitude!):
Once you figure out What is what,how to fix "that" and how to keep "from Doing That" ,on these cars..YOU Can work on ANYTHING!
Funny after 8 years staring at the same car, I look at a Piston engine now and go "what the freak is that?"..lol..(what does that do???)
LOL i was thinking just the opposite. Spent the last 20 yrs looking at piston engines. (this is only my second fb and it had the same problem i have with this one ofcourse it turned out being the donor)
What's weird is i spray around the carb and it seems like no matter where i point it I find a leak so it's really hard to pinpoint exactly where they are located. Any tips on pinpointing them down some? Or am I just over complicating things a little?
Thanx for the help I realize it's gonna take time but i just want to enjoy it as quickly as possible lol. I feel like I'm working on an old Harley.
Old 08-09-13, 10:06 PM
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Bump!
Old 08-09-13, 10:24 PM
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I'm willing to bet that your spraying down the side of the carb and the engine is sucking it in through the top . don't want to send you on a goose chase but maybe put some kind of snorkel on the carb so it can breath air away from the engine compartment and try spray .

bumps are not necessary we all come on the forum when we get a chance but you also need to try things on your own . There are only so many vac hoses, you need to check them all .

If you can fine tune your carb to the point of the engine stalling out there cant be to many leaks .
Old 08-09-13, 11:11 PM
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I need to do things on my own huh? I've been doing things on my own for months and just recently out of sheer desperation i ask for help. You know I'm sorry i even asked the question but reading about what other people have done compared to someone actually giving me a little nudge in the right direction is nice because I have no other help or support with this. It's not like I asked someone to do it for me or even hold my hand. So i guess I'm left to figure it out alone. Thank-you
Old 08-11-13, 01:59 AM
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I work on motorcycles for a living and I can offer this advice when cleaning carbs You should be able to find at least one exit for every hole you find to spray carb clean through. Dissassemble as much as possible to avoid carb clean on rubber parts. Use blast of carb clean, then air pressure, back and forth several times. Use a blowgun with a rubber tip to seal as well as possible. Do this in both directions for each passage. Sometimes particles will dislodge and you are looking for consitent flow patterns out of the passages. If you can find a shop that will run your stripped carb through their ultrasonic cleaner for a reasonable price go for it. When they do this it will get a lot of stuff out, and they will have to blow out and spray out the water and cleaning solution when they are done. If you can get a hold of another carb from a junkyard it would be helpful, as you can compare how carb clean flows through the passages between the two different carbs. If they are different at all then something is going on. As far as vacuum leaks, you need to carefully spray (i use brake clean) without allowing the fumes or liquid to be drawn through the main venturi. The last post was right, you can build a snorkel out of cardboard to keep the spray/fumes out of the main venturi. Use small shots of brake clean and check all around the carb, and any and all hoses connected to the carb, as well as the intake manifold gasket areas. Avoid using too much spray and give each spot a chance for the liquid to dissapate before testing the next area. If the idle goes up or down when doind this you have found a leak. Also when testing with this method you want the idle to be as low as possible and the mixture screw to be properly adjusted. If the mixture screw is way out or way in it will be harder to tell because your idle setting will be too high. Man, I haven't typed this much in a long time.
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