thebiggster

Hi I'm new around here

I have an 82 GSL that I've had since 1991, car has always been garaged but has not been started since 2000.

I've removed the plugs & checked to make sure engine wasn't carbon locked (easily span by hand & could clearly hear the suck squeeze blow from both rotors.

I've put in a new battery and changed oil & hydraulic fluids, car can be pushed easily and gear box is tight and notchy like it was when new.

Car fires & runs by spraying "Start Ya Bastard" directly into carb but wont run on own. I have removed fuel lines at carb & there is no fuel flowing through but you can feel pump pressure & suck on the return.

I have checked fuel filter and when pump is running fuel in filter is pumped out into fuel lines leaving filter empty. My thinking is that there is some blockage between the filter & the tank (as the filter isn't refilling).

I purposely ran 99% of the fuel out before long term storage but didn't completely empty tank. Because of the cars location it is difficult for me to remove filter or drain fuel tank. Today I placed 20 Litres of fresh fuel & a bottle of Rislone Petrol Fuel System Treatment (recommended by long time & trusted mechanic) in the tank hoping that I may breakdown any gummed up fuel in the line between the tank and filter.

If the Rislone Petrol Fuel System Treatment successfully un-gums the line and fuel flow returns to the filter I plan to run down fuel/rislone mixture in tank then replace fuel filter & run the Rislone again to clear any gum/dirt etc through remaining fuel system.

Just looking for thoughts & suggestions


Thanks


Gareth

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Any carbed vehicle that has sat for an extended period of time should have a thorough inspection of all fuel related parts.
Not just see if there is fuel But actually looking INTO the tank.
You would be surprised at what old gas can turn into..like a gooey mess.Now put that crap into the lines and up to the needle and seat of the carb and "voila" ..tons of problems.
I would be looking at rebuilding and cleaning the carb too.

thebiggster

Thanks for that, I've been able to contact my old Rotary Mechanic & I am going to get him to give the fuel system the once over. Looking forward to having REX back & plan to use it as a daily driver after some minor restoration work.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

welcome to the board.

yeah, i see a carb rebuild in your future. that's already been said though. i'm really posting this simply to say that every reference i've ever read in the past said you want to store your car with a FULL tank, not an empty one. i'm not insinuating that it would have necessarily made a lick of difference after 15 years, but who knows? i've never stored a car for more than 2 to 2.5 years so i simply don't know.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

I see dropping and cleaning the tank in your future. Search 'marine clean'.

thebiggster

Thanks for Feedback guys off to Mechanic tomorrow morning for Fluid Change/Clean & Carby rebuild.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Good suggestion by the Chef!
Also look up POR Products.There is a Guy( I won't mention his name) but Aaron Cake..lol..swears by the product line!

thebiggster

This is exactly what mechanic had to do today 2hrs later and quite alot of swearing apparently, he removed a rust and tar slab covering pickup. Tank has been cleaned, decarboned and rust protection reapplied.

Flushed and cleaned rest of fuel system.....hooked battery backup and 1min of cranking and he fired straight away.

All fluids changed and new master and slave cylinders and we are away and all for under $1k

thebiggster

Rex is back at home now but seem to have a sticky bonnet/hood latch any ideas???

Off to get new Tyres tomorrow thing shook like a bastard when driving, guess this what it feels like driving a Race Car with flat spotted tyres (it sat in Garage with Flat Tyres for 15 years so I assume they have been ruined).

tinytyrant

iTrader: (3)

yup, bin those tyres. regardless of the wobbles they're probably past their used by date anyway.

sticky bonnet release? sounds like you need the Fonz to give it a hit.. *pop* "ayyyyyy"

are the springs adjustable on these? might be squashed after sitting closed for years.

thebiggster

Starting to look sweet again

thebiggster

BTW can you get replacement plastic cup assembly for the Popup Head Light Rod or what is the technical term for it

The white plastic bits you see in this ebay sale



Mazda RX 7 RX 7 Long Head Light ROD NEW 1979 TO 1985 | eBay

thebiggster

Does anybody know with the Z198 fuel filter whether the fuel flows into the bowl then gets sucked through filter medium or is it the other way round?

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

The gas drops in outside the filter and departs from within.



The center is the exit.

thebiggster

Thanks for that wasn't sure thought I might need to replace the filter....

I seem to have a problem with fuel not getting into Carby or some type of vapor lock under load.

The car will start & idle (750-800 rpm & super smooth) for over an hour but as soon as I drive it it runs out of fuel.

If I pull the fuel line (into a bottle) and then run the pump plenty of fuel is coming through (more than 1lt/min). I then reconnect the fuel line & the bowls fill and are running @ half full in window. The car starts (easily) & idles indefinitely but as soon as I drive it it runs out of fuel.

Any ideas????

Can't seem to figure this out & is mighty frustrating

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Frustrating indeed. Your symptoms indicate blockage in the fuel supply, but it seems you've addressed that.
Were the lines replaced?
How far can you go before it starves? How long do you have to wait before you can roll again? This sounds like the problem I had before I cleaned my tank and pickup. I haven't had any problem since. Something is obviously impeding the flow. Now to find it.
We need someone more knowledgeable to come along here.

thebiggster

I had the whole fuel system cleaned out by my mechanic (Tank removed & cleaned & fuel lines blown clean).

I suspect the fuel filter may be starting to get clogged (1 tank has gone through it after clean out of the entire fuel system). The bowl in the fuel filter does not fully fill (1/2- 3/4) so I suspect this maybe the problem, letting enough fuel through to idle but not to drive.

thebiggster

Problem Solved ...replaced the fuel filter.... I suspect this wont be the last time I do this

Secondaries still a little sticky though .... flatten accelerator nothing, back accelerator off by 10-20% (vacuum isssue?) & secondaries open up. Can really feel it coming on @ 3500-4000 rpm

Pulling strong till about 5500 rpm then runs out of grunt, just flatlines at 5500 rpm, but I suspect this maybe electrical.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Glad ya got that. Next, to pull smoothly to 7000. Freshen plugs , wires, cap and rotor? Oh, did you rebuild the carb?

thebiggster

New Dizzy: Check
New Dizzy Cap: Check
Got it to Rev out to 7000 in 2nd
Wont do it in 3rd or higher
Ordered some NGK BR8EQ14 plugs from US a month ago (still waiting for em arghhhh)
On my 3rd Fuel Filter in 2 Tanks (lol)
Pretty sure the Carby is fine.....
I'm starting to suspect I may need to replace original fuel pump as well

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

yep.
you've gone this far so you may as well get rid of that crappy pump and have a whole new fuel delivery system under the car.

The pic you posted of your car shows a nice project that deserves the attention that you have been putting to it.
I'm envious of you guys "down there" as "up here" (Canada) the cars are encrusted in salt and rust.They don't last long even when you attend to them..

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

If you're on your 3rd fuel filter since your tank was 'cleaned' something is amiss. Did you look into the cleaned tank? Was the pickup actually removed and cleaned? Was a new filter sock put on it? Just wondering.
I'd revisit the tank before replacing the fuel pump.

thebiggster

I was told by my mechanic (trusted rotary guy) who did the work that it would probably take a couple of tanks & new filters before all the crud is completely gone. I have been emptying out the filters as I replace them and there is significantly less crud now than when I changed out the first one. The crud is very fine (almost sand like) rust coloured material which you can hardly see. I have been using a product called Liquid Molly Carby & Fuel System Cleaner (at mechanics recommendation) and was told to expect that it would remove the last of the crud that was not entirely removed during the tank cleaning process.

I can get a genuine OEM fuel pump (rated for 12A & 13B apparently) here in Oz for under $150.00AUD or I was thinking maybe I'd just swap it out for a Holley Red $100.00AUD. Not sure as which way to go as fitting the OEM will be significantly easier (plug & play) than the Holley.

I have also been able to track down OEM door rubbers for $70.00 a piece from our local Mazda dealer.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

I have a new stock pump which keeps up fine with my slightly modded Nikki through a header and free flowing 2" exhaust. If I step up my fuel pump I'm going to the Weber Redline pump. It seems to be an easier install.