My 85se axillary ports are stuck I think.I rev the eng. to 5k they dont move I tried to pull on the acuator shafts and they wont move.I just got this car 2 mths ago my 1st RX-7.I love to drive it and I run the **** out of it.Im getting 13mpg and was wondering how to free them up without pulling the lim? thanx to everyone who responds. Mike

 

Well, it IS a 1stgen but I can't help you on this one since I'm still playing with Nikki's..

Let's see what the EFI guru's have gotta say...I'm sure one of the 2ndgen guru's can address the problem directly.

Mario III

 

This happened to me, I drove the snot out of it and eventually they freed up.

That said...

WARNING

You may have built up carbon in the aux ports, if you don't take them out to clean it up you run the risk of that carbon going through your motor and taking out your motor.

The best way is to remove the aux ports and clean them, you shouldn't have to remove the LIM.

 

I have only seen threads that say to remove the lim to clean aux ports.The search feature has been no help at all.If anyone can steer me towards a write up without removing the lower intake to clean aux ports I would really apreciate it.

 

well, maybe someone knows something that i don't, but until they speak up, i don't know of a way to get the port sleeves out without removing the manifold.

i'd advise removing the sleeves and cleaning the ports and sleeves. lubricate them before putting them back in the ports. move the actuators by hands and lube them if necessary. make sure all hoses going to the port actuators are healthy.

 

Well, maybe its a different story on the 1st gen 13B. At least on FC's you don't have to remove the LIM. Guess we are lucky that way.

 

The only way to access the aux port sleeves is to remove the lower intake, on both FCs and FBs.

If they ports on either generation are stuck to the point you can't move the external parts by hand, then you have no choice but to pull the lower intake and clean things up. Carburetor cleaner will free much of the carbon but be careful about letting huge chunks of it end up in the engine. Position the rotor so that it blocks the port as you are working and then blow everything clean afterwards.

 

I'm not to sure about fb and their oil metering lines but on the fc I broke some .. 2 of them on an fc is right in the lim... so be careful with thoose.. In 2nd gen faq there is a write up... very helpful too!

 

Just break the lines and replace them. If they broke so easily when the manifold was removed, they needed to be replaced anyway.

 

I'm new to rotarys but I assume the Auxuliary ports are the tubes that are turned by the control on the intake manifold. I see how they function but exactly what do they do? How do they improve either performance or emmissions? I don't expect a long explanation but please point me to an article or post so I can learn.
Thanks in advance.

 

The move depending on rpms for good lowend tourqe and switch for good top end tourqe ... its not a good idea to remove them lots of loss of in the bottom.. Trust me I did it.. It affects driveablity..

 

Mazda vtec for rotaries. but before Vtec was around.. basicly more Air flow AND more time(Duration) that air is Allowed to flow in. I think 35HP diffrence is commonly accept.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

i'll tell you something else!
I just tore down my GSL-SE's intake and replaced them with precleaned sleeves and pineapple racing incerts. i got to see my throttle body for the first time on this car( my 9th rx-7) and it was a shock to see how small it was. Definatly a major limiting factor.

After replacing the Aux. ports i used a lumber support pump(i Grabbed a few years ago out of a lincoln towncar, at the time it was for my 89 VERT, but it never got used) and Wired it to a switch.. when it turns on it takes about 1.5 seconds and both ports come all the way upen.

But the Power measured via butt-dyno was not impressed. this is with a racing beat Header and 3 Inch back str8 exhaust to a 3 inch in and out muffler in the back.

i'm currently working on a new approach. Bicycle brake cables to the thottle body. so you open your Aux ports with your foot. never seen that done.

 

Oil injectors intact....




sorry. i'm not a big picture taker.

 

awesome build!
good luck man

 

Thats what mine looks like right now, I'm about 2 weeks into this got all the parts painted and ready to go back on the car just waiting on parts...

 

Last ,why did you do this?Did you remove air pump so you had to do this?

 

Goods job..love to see ppl on these 7s getting them done! My oil injection broke like crazy... and so did the junk yard 7... that bike brake cable is a realy good Idea.. Never thought of that...

 

Do the 6th ports operate off back pressure from exhaust,it looks like the line going to axuator comes off the air line from the acv to the ex pipe?

 

Yes, in stock form the GSL-SE and S4 ports use exhaust backpressure to open up.

 

I was thinking of making a pipe to do away with my 85se cats.Could i take off my air pump and weld bungs in pipe for o2 sensor and aux acuator pipe?

 

Check the 2nd gen FAQ for how to activate the ports with the air pump.

You'll want to include a resonator, not just use a straight pipe. A straight pipe would be very loud and make the car sound like a chainsaw on crack.

 

I orderd a bonez race pipe it goes from exh. man. to mid pipe and has a aux. port tube built in as well as a resonator $135 from rotory performance.They say you get about 2/3 of the performance that a header would give.We'll see. I cant waight to put it on.But my 6 ports are still stuck the rear one now moves a little bit maybe I should disconect them till I get the time to tear it apart?I'm afraid of crap breaking loose and wiping out a apex seal.

 

They won't break loose.