20brx71229

Alright now i know theres quite a few of these posted already and trust me ive read alot of them but i have questions that i really couldnt find now i have an 89 fc that im going to swap a FD 13b into i already know im going to put a turbonetics t3/t4 single turbo. 850front 1650rear injectors. Not sure about the ecu i heard alot of haltech? Is that the way to go if so which model? I want to try and hit 9500rpm. Which apex seal are good will stock ones hold that? Also what kind of porting will need to be done?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

You'd better do a little research on the FD's engine in an FC.
it is not just Plop and go.There are fitment issues,like the mounts,etc.
Haltech is an excellent Ecu to go with.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

welcome to the board.

your saving grace is you are a new member and you're posting in this section. I know I have personally contributed to the answers to some of your questions over the years, so the answers (or at least suggested directions) are here. it may not come to you in an hour, but it is here.

that said:

1. if i'm not mistaken, there are several links in the Gen II FAQ regarding the REW install, so for now i'm not supplying you any links. you had to see the FAQ thread on the very page when you created this one.

2. as far as the Haltech. I have heard nothing but good things about the current systems they offer. get enough posts together and access the Haltech forum (or just look at the Haltech site) for specifics. at the end of the day though (and i'm assuming you're not self-tuning) you need to get something that whomever is tuning your car is familiar with.

3. I really don't know if that generic T3/T4 is going to cut it. you may want to look into at least a full T04-type turbo instead.

4. porting is NOT REQUIRED for 400 HP, but if it's something you plan to do, then a mild streetport is more than good enough. also, there should be no need to run up to 9500 RPM. this is a turbocharged setup, research and size your turbo accordingly.

5. use the OEM apex seals if this is a streetcar and it will be expected to act like one. there are other options that can be used, but most if not all, carry compromises to the OEM seals. if it's a race car, then you'll likely be rebuilding often and longevity at that point is completely subjective.

6. i'm not commenting on your injectors. I've seen that setup work for what you say you want.

Evil Aviator

An FD engine swap is a lot of pain for very little gain. I would stick with the S5 engine because it is quite capable of your power goal, it is cheaper to get to that goal than an FD engine, and, well, it is already in your car, lol. Either way you would probably want to street port the engine prior to upgrading the turbocharger, although this is not required.

I would not recommend exceeding 8,500rpm. High-rpm engine modifications are seriously expensive, and they are not required to meet your power goals. However, if you still want to have a high-rpm engine for some reason, I recommend contacting a professional race shop. Plan on spending about $6,500 to $20,000 for the "block", flywheel, and scattershield, and an additional $4,000 to $6,000 if you need a dry sump. You would also want to use bridge porting or peripheral porting on a high-rpm engine, otherwise the engine will make less power in the 8500-9500rpm range. As far as I know, the closest race shops to you are Racing Beat and Mazdatrix.

Most T3/T4 turbos are not optimal for a road race car, but if you are just doing drag racing or if you simply want 400hp bragging rights then it will work OK. The easiest route to a cheap turbo upgrade is to go with one of the bolt-on BNR kits.
BNR Supercars - Bryan Nickell's Rotary Supercars - Mazda RX-7 2nd Generation (1987-1991)

If you want a better turbo upgrade then you should move up to a GT35R or GTX35R series, or full-size T4 with wet bearing and divided housings and manifold. These will be more expensive and complicated, and will require external wastegates and custom manifolds and plumbing, but they will offer more efficiency and less lag.

Assuming that your standalone EMS can handle it, you can stick with the stock 550cc primaries and simply add 1600cc secondaries. In theory, such a setup would handle up to 465bhp (about 400rwhp) with a 43.5psi fuel pressure and .70 BSFC.

Regardless of your choice, keep in mind that you will also need to upgrade the fuel pump, the fuel lines and filter should be upgraded to dual 5/16" (-5AN) or single 3/8" (-6AN), and it is also a good idea to upgrade the fuel pressure regulator, intercooler, radiator, and maybe the exhaust system. The new turbo will also most likely require a new air filter / air box. The stock FC oil cooler should work just fine.

As for the standalone EMS, you should talk about this with your local tuner. This is not something that you can do yourself, so you may as well get advice from the guy who will be doing the tuning. For that matter, you should discuss the entire setup with your tuner prior to buying anything. The internet is a great resource for general ideas, but a very poor resource for final decisions on complex situations.

20brx71229

Thank you honestly swap complications totally slipped my mind. As for the turbo i wasnt 100% sure if a t4 would be to big for the setup. So i think now it would be much easier building a turboll and less of a hassle. The car its self will be streetdriven but also a fun little track car and hitting 9500rpm is pretty much for ***** and giggles.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

well, I count two warnings thus far, so I see it as a dead issue now. proceed at your own peril ...

9500 RPM is not a "***** and giggles"-thing. well, let me clarify ... without prepping the engine for it, you are guaranteed *****. but giggles? not so much.

20brx71229

Well i mean like id want to acheive that just to make people jealous butbi understand reaching that high of rpms still within a powerband takes an extreme amount of presision skrry for the confusion. But im going to follow what you said and not exceed 8500 thats still high up there

mosesmay

I would just like to add that before I was hit on the race track with my FC I had a very responsive 416hp atw with a garrett gt3788r turbo and with the v mount design I built neither the oil or water temps made it much past 70 degrees Celsius I would just like to point out If you are going down that route like I did you will have to look into the cooling side of things as before I v mounted it just around town both temps would sky rocket in excess of 100 each

20brx71229

Cooling is deffinetly one of the biggest items on my check list. But do you guys know of any suspensions? I wanted to get a pair of kw's but they dont make them for rx7 would tiens be anygood? Or name others that are very adjustable

mosesmay

I'm running cusco adjustable suspension and couldn't fault it really but when ya think about it though all brands make good types of suspension it all comes down to how much you want to pay and what your main purpose of your car is for

Evil Aviator

8500 is still hard on your engine unless it has some basic high-rpm modifications, and the 7500-8500 range will be on the back side of the power band with stock or street porting. The problem inherent with high-rpm modifications and porting is that they ruin the low-rpm performance. Again, talk with your local tuner before you buy anything, because it sucks to blow thousands of dollars on mods that make the car drive worse.

^ This

If you just want to lower the car, then any of the cheapie Korean junk will work fine. Common brands are Buddy Club, K-Sport, and Megan.

If you want a show car with flashy Japanese parts, then you would probably want to go with something like HKS, Tein, or Stance. They are also pretty good for street, autocross, and light track use.

For serious track racing, you can order good components directly from Mazdaspeed Motorsports Development (MMD). Eibach ERS springs are by far the most common, and dampers are usually Koni, Bilstein, or JRZ, although there is a lot of variation. Ground Control is a popular manufacturer for those who are not MMD members, and you can call them for advice on what would work best for your particular application. In general, I would not recommend KYB AGX or Tokico dampers for a coilover setup on a 2Gen RX-7, although they are an excellent choice for street/autocross in a non-coilover setup. Below is a link to Ground Control, and the other brands should be easy to Google.
Ground Control - Coilover Conversion kit, 86-92 Mazda RX7

Here is a link about choosing suspension components for actual racing.
Autocross to Win (DGs Autocross Secrets) - Buying Shocks

If you decide on coilovers, then you would probably want to also get camber/caster plates, and you would definitely want to replace all of the old bushings and mounts at the same time. Most people also install DTSS eliminators. Just a word of caution, most of the old bushings on your suspension parts are extremely difficult to remove, so you would be better off having a professional shop do this work for you, and they may as well install your coilovers at the same time since the labor will be no different. I replaced my bushings once with a lot of help from my friends, a 6-ton press, and a blowtorch, and I will NEVER do this again. I didn't have any problems with the various mounts though.

As for other parts, you will probably want a front shock tower brace, and maybe an upgraded front anti-sway bar. Some people also add a rear anti-sway bar, but most don't. Eibach, Cusco, and Suspension Techniques are common brands, although just about anything should work OK. AWR is a good place to shop for trick racing suspension components.
RX-7 - AWR Racing Store

If that is the goal then I can save you a lot of time and money. With all of the mods that you are mentioning, you are looking at about $20-25K, probably a year or two for completion, a fair amount of work on your part, and even then you do not know if everything will work out well. Here is a link to a car that is selling for less than what you are planning to spend on your current car, it was built by a professional race car driver, it looks great, it is very fast on the track because the engine was repositioned and the suspension was track-tuned, and it has a pretty unique engine with lots of torque (for a rotary). It does not have a high-rpm engine, but if you take it for a test drive you will not care, lol. I can assure you that it is one of the best cars on this forum, and it is selling for about half of what it would cost to build.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...rtible-767071/

20brx71229

EvilAviator this is my first rotary build honestly and i know alot of people into it but they drag and i would much rather do autocross events and occasionally some drifting
here are my specifics
I want at least 350rwhp goal is 400
I want to have great cooling
A nice decent set of coilovers
Full cage
Ill also have full access to my own shop to fabricate alot of custom peices