When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
hi all,
just picked up this rx7 thats apparently had a recon engine put in and now has no oil pressure. i havnt started it personally.
it looks like it has had a few mods put on it and never got round to being finished.
i want to sort the oil pressure problem first and then tackle the rest! its had a oil cooler kit fitted and filter relocation kit which is bone dry and has never had any oil in it
i removed all this today and poured oil down the oil filter hole and turned the engine backwards to draw it in, then turned it over by hand forward. and then with the starter, everything was still bone dry
next thing to look at is going to be the oil pump key?
also can anyone tell me what this is
and what this wire does/goes to from drivers side footwell
the thing you're holding in the 3rd photo is the oil pressure sender.
i'll start simple ... have you confirmed that there is indeed oil in the pan?
for the record, you can't spin the engine by hand fast enough to cause or affect oil flow or pressure. anyway you can go about this a few ways. quick can be messy, but it will get you information ... well ... quickly. you can pull the filter or the line at the front cover and crank the engine for a few seconds at a time.
NOTE: be sure to disable the engine from starting before you crank it. pull the plug wires or pump relay or something.
obviously if oil flows it will make a mess, but you'll know for sure.
if the oil does not flow, then you'll have to probe deeper. pull the pan check the pickup tube. if that's fine, then pull the front cover and check the pump itself.
EDIT: i have no idea what that wire is in the 4th photo.
thanks for the reply and help,
i turned it over on the starter motor for about 5 secs with the filter off, no oil spewed out.
i have checked the oil in the pan via the dip stick and it is very clean, and on the max level.
where does the oil pressure sender go? and that wire looks really bodged, im going to have to sort the wiring out but want to get it started first
just a note i removed the ht leads and spark plugs so less pressure was on the bearings when theres no oil pressure.
i have done some research and the key on the oil pump is a common one, not sure how this works though,
the pressure sender goes in the rear side housing.
i was unaware that there's a common problem with the REW pump key. however if that's what your research yielded, then by all means look into it. i would suggest having another go at cranking just because 5 seconds may not have been enough. i've had engines that took a little longer to prime than others. however, it's sounding like you'll have to dig deeper into this issue.
im probably wrong about the oil pump key haha, just trying to rule out every option.
i will try cranking it again tomorrow on the starter motor, can you point me to the fuel pump relay so i can disconnect this to stop the fuel injecting.
if it has zero oil flow and no oil pressure am i right in thinking it can only really be the oil pump or a blockage on the strainer?
thanks again
... can you point me to the fuel pump relay so i can disconnect this to stop the fuel injecting.
sorry, not specifically. i am not at all familiar with the FDs in terms of working on them. you can go to Foxed.ca and download a copy of the FSM if you haven't already done so. that said, i would imagine there will be a fuse and relay box under the hood somewhere. that would likely be the location of the pump relay and the cover should have schematic somewhere on it.
if it has zero oil flow and no oil pressure am i right in thinking it can only really be the oil pump or a blockage on the strainer?
thanks again
pretty much. the pickup tube and pump and the only things i can think of that would prevent the system from priming. everything else i can think of would simply bleed off pressure, but the oil would still flow.
Usually, FD oil pumps are good, unless the engine builder screwed it up. I would check the aftermarket stuff first. Make sure it is plumbed correct with no obstructions. Is there a T-stat, and is it plumbed correctly?
To confirm the pump works (or doesn't), pull the cooler feed line from the block. If oil pumps from there, you know there's a blockage getting to your filters. If there's no flow, the problem is internal
Below is the oil flow path. I circled where the oil leaves the block.
[QUOTE=TomU;11982687]Usually, FD oil pumps are good, unless the engine builder screwed it up. I would check the aftermarket stuff first. Make sure it is plumbed correct with no obstructions. Is there a T-stat, and is it plumbed correctly?
To confirm the pump works (or doesn't), pull the cooler feed line from the block. If oil pumps from there, you know there's a blockage getting to your filters. If there's no flow, the problem is internal
Below is the oil flow path. I circled where the oil leaves the block.
thanks that's also very helpful, okay so the standard oil cooler has been removed and both the entrance to the oil cooler has a blanking bolt in it. And also below the oil filter there is a blanking bolt in. So am I right in thinking If it can't get out of the pump or to the filter that's probably my issue?
Okay so in this pic you can see what I mean, bottom right corner the rusty looking bolt is a blanking bolt and there is another the same underneath the oil filter
This might be the answer as it would surely mess up the oil flow completely
Okay cool, and i could also remove the bolt and crank it to see if it fires out. I wonder if there's a way of fitting this aftermarket oil cooler, just in place of the standard one which I don't have, I guess I would just need to get some fittings
The one that was on it was from toyosport, I found the receipt in the car for it. It must have just been installed by someone with no clue, and who couldn't be bothered to research it haha. The oil cooler pipes were routed like this
Out from oil filter relocation adapter plate replacing the standard filter , then to oil filter on a separate plate, then to oil cooler rad, from there it went back to the oil filter relocation adapter.
No wonder it was bone dry haha
hmmm, never heard of that brand. You may want to do some research on it and also check your fittings and hoses to see if they are quality or not. That's a component I wouldn't want to skimp on, but that doesn't mean you can't get a good system for a modest investment. Best low cost option is used factory dual oil coolers. (IMHO, stock is the way to go for 90% of things, and a stock dual oil cooler setup should be GTG for anything but a track vehicle)
5 seconds is not enough time to prime the system and build pressure...
it takes me about 30 seconds of cranking to prime the engines i've installed, sometimes 15 seconds but no less. but you wouldn't know til the obvious issue is resolved.
5 seconds is not enough time to prime the system and build pressure...
it takes me about 30 seconds of cranking to prime the engines i've installed, sometimes 15 seconds but no less. but you wouldn't know til the obvious issue is resolved.
Okay thanks, I'm just nervous about having no oil flow haha.
I think I'm just going to go stock for now, the car will be used on the track so once it's running I will look into some good figment and hoses.
I will keep you all updated tonight
Thanks for the help
Update! Oil pressure appears to be resolved!
I removed the bolts that were blocking the oil pump and got a pipe made up to bypass it with new banjo bolts. I tested it by cranking it and after a few seconds the oil fired out! Result!!!
So then I connected the pipe to the oil filter mount and checked it was getting up to there.
Got my new spark plugs in, and connected it all back up! It started and oil pressure sat a 3/4 of the gauge nearing the top notch. The gauge is in kg squared.
Now it starts but doesn't run! Onto the next problem I guess I will start a new thread. Thanks to all that's helped!
10-22-15, 11:04 AM
