spyderrss

just had a few questions

i just baught the car and i have not been able to drive the car. the clutch slave cylinder leaked so it has been replaced. the clutch still does not operate. the system has been bleed using all methods that i found on the site. so i have purchased a cheap clutch and have plans to replace the pilot bearing and seal, clutch disk and pressure plate, throwout bearing and just incase a clutch fork ball or whatever you would call it. so after all that i should atleast be able to drive the car right?

number two would be not so much the idle because after the car is warn the idle is rock solid but the engine if you reve to 2500 rpm then the car will start its bogg about 500rpm then back to 2500rpm then bogg. i have found a thread about a turbo II where the tps is in question and the resistance is suppose to be 1 ohms closed and between 4 to 6 ohms at wot. i do not know if those specs are good for my car and my tps has six pins theres had three. i found some pins that worked with the car warm i get 1.04 ohms closed then as you increase throttle with the ignition off the ohms rise smooth until around 5 ohms then its irratic then becomes smooth again at 6 to 6.25 ohms a wot. so now what i am not sure the tps is bad there are a large amount of vaccum line to check. also i believe the air pump is there in spirit but not very fuctional. one large line is plugged and the other right above the exhaust is open. all i have read says tps is bad but i am just looking for a way to confirm that before i spend the money.

i have also read a large amount on the hp that you can get from a na. i just wanted to see your opinion on trying to max the hp out on a convertable or just a waste of time and make it look cool and leave it at that. my concern is it would be a waste of money in the end to work a convertable because the car is heavier and i would have to redo the whole drivetrain to support the power. so what do people think waste of time and effort or practical. i had intensions of try the car at the track. we can drag here or there is one day a week i think to drift.


thanks for reading and any ideas or input would be appreciated

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Your tps is a S5 TPS it has more wires. The idle issue could be a bad or misadjusted tps if everything else is ok (such as vacuum leaks, ect.).

Backprobe the green/red wire on the TPS harness. take a voltmeter and put the red lead to that backprobe. Ground the black lead of the multimeter on the battery or a good ground. It will start reading a voltage. Use the screw below the TPS to set the voltage to 1 volt.

That procedure is just to set the TPS. You should also take a ohmeter and check the resistance of the TPS to make sure there are dead spots in the tps. Look at the factory service manual for the specifications on this.

I have a s5 convertible too. As far as power goes, I have been over this with a few people already. Either just enjoy the car as it is, put a good exhaust and suspension (as I have) or do a turbo swap. I have done a full TII drivetrain swap on mine, but that is for the future project I have in mind. The convertible is the heaviest FC there is, but again, the FC isn't the best "drag race car" there is stock. It does wonders with a good driver on a road course though.

For the clutch, did you check the master cylinder? Usually those are replaced in pairs (master and slave). If the slave isn't moving the throw-out bearing fork (you can visually see if you have someone press the clutch pedal), then your hydraulic system isn't working and is the problem, not the clutch components themselves.

spyderrss

thanks for the information on which wires to check thats a big help. i actually just got another tps because the old one seems to have a spot where the resistance jumps around so we will see what happens when i get that part.

the power options is basically what i was thinking just enjoy the car, maybe take a run down the track just for fun now and again. i have coilovers and a full exhaust now, but i am looking for a good intake kit. any ideas there?

the clutch master works good there is no leaking inside the car or on the firewall and the fork cannot be moved by hand but the hydraulic system has no problem moving it. i am going to get the car up on a lift this week and see whats going on inside the clutch bell.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

There really isn't many "intake kits" for the FC. The only one I know is the Miriah Motorsports one, most of the time people just build a box and put a cone filter on the end of the intake tube. If I were to do it again, I would keep the stock box and just put a drop in K&N in it. The stock box is built with the intake coming off the front of the hood.

spyderrss

i thought about that. i was thinking i wanted to get something aftermarket just for the looks. for now the car is going to be rin with the na 13b and if something breaks then i will think about the turbo II or maybe a 20b?

spyderrss

so bring this issue back to life, we just pulled the tranny last week to change the clutch and fix this car, but i found that the car was not a manual trans all its life. now i found a thread on how to change a auto to a manual but my question would be could the 5th gear switch not being hooked up be a problem for the idle. i have a new neutral switch coming and the guy didn't even have all five bolts in the trans. the other issue would be how do i tell if the diff was changed, as far as i know it should be change because the auto uses a lower ratio like 3.9 and the manual should be 4.1 i think. so any ideas here on the idle and anything else i should make sure he did or didn't do?