nipponmotasenzoku

I bought a factory service manual and need further assistance. I bought this car from my girlfriends Dad and he drove it into his shop to begin a complete paint job 8 months ago. I bought it and towed it to the body shop on a dolly. While on the dolly I tried to fire it up and it would not start. However with stating fluid sprayed into the intake it runs until the fluid runs out. I then accessed the fuel pump and put a test light on the ground and tested each of the wires while somone else tried to start it. It does not have any power to the pump. At the parts store they list a fuel pump shutoff switch, which I have not been able to locate or find in the FSM. I am curious where it is and if the car being on the dolly may have triggered this to shut off. If not where would you start to address this problem. I also tested the fuses under the LH kickpanel before I had a manual and knew which was which. They all had power with a test light except the top three (20 amp, 15 amp, 10 amp consecutively). I removed each of these and tested the fuses to make sure they were good (they all were). I would appreciate any knowledge that could be given to me in this situation. Thanks for your help. It comes out with a new paint job on wednesday and I would love to get it running and take this restored rotary beast for a test drive. email me ( aaapartsandrecycling@gmail.com ), pm me, or feel free to call if you have time to kill 704-713-3242 . Thank you all so much for the help.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The only thing close to a fuel cutoff switch is within the AFM. As a safety feature, the fuel pump will not run if the engine is not running (AFM door pulled in by vacuum). For testing purposes you can jump the yellow test connector near the airbox/passenger shock tower and put the key to 'ON'. The pump should run and pressurize the rails.

nipponmotasenzoku

Ok great, I can try that. Would that explain not having any power to the pump though? I put a test light and had somebody else turn the car over while I tested the wires coming out of the fuel pump with a test light and had to power to any of the wires.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Power to the pump runs through a relay under the dash. You can check that the relay is being activated, then back track.

nipponmotasenzoku

Great, when you say under the dash do you mean under the steering column on the driver side, or literally underneath the upper dash? Do you know if the relay will be marked, or what color it may be. Thanks for the help, kinda new to these vehicles, so I am still learning.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Here's a pic and it's found near the steering column.

http://img96.imageshack.us/f/dscf1101x.jpg/

nipponmotasenzoku

To test the relay I would put power and ground to it and listen for it to click correct. If so which connector is power and which is ground, if not how would I test this relay to be correct.

On the earlier suggestion of the switch within the AFM, when you say the yellow wire near the shock tower, I see one yellow wire that appears to go into the shock boot, is that the wire you are referring to, or should I be looking for an empty yellow clip that to jump the connections? thanks again for the help, after finishing the paint job today I sprayed starting fluid into the intake to hear it run again, I CAN'T WAIT TO DRIVE THIS CAR!!!!!

satch

iTrader: (1)

One way to listen to it click would be to turn the key to "on" and place a wire into the back of the brown wire so it comes in contact with the Brown wire and place the other end of the wire to a suitable ground. You could use the solid Black wire in the same relay as your ground and when you do it should click. Also, the Blue/Red wire in the relay should have power when you bridge the two wires stated above and it should also have voltage when the key is turned to start w/o the wires being bridged. All are methods for checking this relay.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

It's a yellow 2-wire plug. You have to connect the two sides with a piece of wire.

nipponmotasenzoku

Thanks I will test the relay tomorrow. Is there a main relay for the fuel pump, if so where is it located. Unfortunately my fuse box under the drivers side kick panel doesn't have a cover so I have no idea what is what.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you test/check the "Engine" fuse in the interior fuse box for it powers the Circuit opening relay, Main relay and the B/W wire off the back of the alternator.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Main relay is alongside the trailing coil and will click when key is put to "on."

nipponmotasenzoku

What is the proper procedure for testing the main engine fuse? So to make sure I have it right, to test the fuel pump relay, I am connecting the wire on the left in the diagram to the brown one and then running a separate wire from the brown to a ground?

satch

iTrader: (1)

No! You connect Black to Brown and key to on and the fuel pump should work and for that to happen the Blue/Red wire must have voltage. Also, it is best to have one end of the wire installed, then key to "on," then connect the other end of the wire and you should hear the relay click. Remove one end of the wire and reconnect and the relay should click again and so on. Then with no bridging wire (jumper wire is removed) the Blue/Red wire should have voltage with the key to "start."

There is a Engine" fuse in the interior fuse box and a "Main" fuse in the engine bay fuse box. I think you're referring to the first one. To check the fuse you could visually look it over or use the multimeter set to "ohms" and do a resistance test by placing the terminals of the meter to either end of the fuse and look for continuity. Meaning a very low number (if the meter has an audible sound setting for ohms then it will beep if you have continuity meaning the fuse is good). If on the other hand it shows infinity then the fuse needs replacement. Also if you can verify that the Main relay clicks with the key to on then it proves the Engine fuse is good as well.

nipponmotasenzoku

Great thanks, what about testing the main engine fuse that you talked about?

nipponmotasenzoku

Sorry didn't see your answer to the engine fuse question, my browser only opened up to the answer for the pump relay for some reason, refreshed and there was the answer I asked the question to again. I've got plenty of work to do tomorrow, I will post how it comes and if the car is running again, thanks again for all your help.

Dusty2Rusty

I'm having the exact same problem, checked the pump relay and no power is going there whatsoever, now that I've read this I shall check the engine fuse.

nipponmotasenzoku

Thanks for all the help guys I got the Mazda running. DustyRusty, don't waste your time on the electrical, I bet its your fuel pump. Thats what mine was. Apparently the car is smart enough to know when the circuit isn't complete and doesn't send power there. I pulled my pump out and it was corroded from old gas. Put a new pump motor in, cleaned the tank and the assembly and reinstalled it. It runs great now, and it took less than two hours. That is where I would start. Thanks for all the help guys I couldn't have done it without all your help.

satch

iTrader: (1)

EDIT:
Good thing with the car running now but in response to the comments you made to the previous poster is he mentioned there isn't any power to the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump relay, found on S4 turbos, takes the voltage from the circuit opening relay and sends it to the fuel pump, otherwise on an NA, the circuit opening relay sends the voltage to the fuel pump, if that is so, then the fuel pump itself cannot work w/o voltage to the pump relay and or circuit opening relay even if the fuel pump is brand new and working like a champ.

nipponmotasenzoku

I don't know a lot about these cars, but I can tell you that when my fuel pump was bad the car was sending no power to the fuel pump relay. That was why I had assumed I had an electrical problem. I traced the power, or lack of power all the way to the to the fuel pump relay and then tested it separately and determined it was working and then tried pulling the pump.

Dusty2Rusty

That's what I thought because my fuel pump is pretty new and when I hook a 12v source directly to the pump(I have a toggle switch connected directly to the pump) I can hear it buzzing like a champ.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Your problem should be easy to rectify.

Dusty2Rusty

I Agree, the problem is having the time to rectify