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1987 13B engine problem

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Old 09-04-18, 10:44 AM
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1987 13B engine problem

This car sat for 5 years... it will run, but only 10-15 seconds then dies... pull the plugs and they are covered in oil...is this rotary toast? or is there a problem with the oil metering system ? all I know is what I have read, that the oil system is somehow connected to the throttle?
Old 09-04-18, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by bones007
This car sat for 5 years... it will run, but only 10-15 seconds then dies... pull the plugs and they are covered in oil...is this rotary toast? or is there a problem with the oil metering system ? all I know is what I have read, that the oil system is somehow connected to the throttle?
Check compression first. Then start troubleshooting.
Old 09-04-18, 12:12 PM
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I should have said that I did compression they are running between 80 and 100 psi cold .... can't get the car to run long enough to check it hot...
Old 09-04-18, 12:15 PM
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Its probably got residual oil that seeped in over the years in the combustion chamber. I'd get some new plugs, charge the battery, and do the "deflooding" procedure. Rotary Performance - Tech - 86-91 Unflood Procedures Other things you should should consider is draining the old fuel and adding new fuel, inspecting all vacuum lines and intake gaskets for leaks, and inspecting fuel system components like filters and injectors.
Old 09-04-18, 06:41 PM
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Thanks for the replies.... I did drain the old gas out of the tank , also blew out the lines from the tank to the engine,installed new fuel pump ,also new gas filter... the injectors were stuck, removed them and cleaned and tested them . have not changed the oil yet...I did inject a few ounces of ATF in the chambers as instructed to see if the seals would loosen up... the longest I have gotten the car to run was about 2 minutes by push starting it...and it would not idle unless my foot was on the gas ... even then it just slowed and stopped... immediately pulled the plugs and they were coated with oil... never could get it to fire again by pushing or pulling it... it would occasionally backfire out the exhaust while trying to pull start it ... now it cranks and runs about 10-15 seconds stops and the plugs are coated by excessive oil on them.. I do the deflooding thing every time because you can smell the gas when it does not start....the car has 111 k on the clock...I am getting frustrated to the point of parting out the car...

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Old 09-04-18, 08:07 PM
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Pull start it with another car and see if the oil clears up.

first you should change ur oil tho
Old 09-05-18, 10:55 AM
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Have retried to pull start it but it does nothing except the occasional backfire out the exhaust if you step on the gas pedal, changing the oil is my next step.
Thanks
Old 09-05-18, 10:58 AM
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Checked fuel pressure? Changed Fuel filter?
Old 09-05-18, 02:10 PM
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Yep did them all , but can you please explain this aspect for me.... there are 2 sets of coil packs... one has blue wires one has black wires to the plugs... what goes where? each pack is marked L and T.... now I was told the leading plugs are on the bottom and the trailing are on the top? if that is correct should not the lead blue go on the bottom plug, and the trailing blue wire go on the top? on the same chamber? and the same for the black set? because that is not how they are set up now.... the blue set is on the top plugs and the black is on the bottom plugs...seems to me they are mixed up... or am I wrong?
Old 09-05-18, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bones007
Yep did them all , but can you please explain this aspect for me.... there are 2 sets of coil packs... one has blue wires one has black wires to the plugs... what goes where? each pack is marked L and T.... now I was told the leading plugs are on the bottom and the trailing are on the top? if that is correct should not the lead blue go on the bottom plug, and the trailing blue wire go on the top? on the same chamber? and the same for the black set? because that is not how they are set up now.... the blue set is on the top plugs and the black is on the bottom plugs...seems to me they are mixed up... or am I wrong?
L1 T1 is the front rotor. L2 T2 is the rear rotor. Also if you look next to the plug holes, theyre marked L and T.


Old 09-05-18, 06:47 PM
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Well Hallelujah... got it running, someone (previous owner?) had the lead and trailing wires reversed, also had leading plugs in trailing holes I never checked because I assumed the last owner had them on right......but alas it has a bad rotor,,, it misses pretty good and will not idle unless you keep your foot on the gas, I am assuming it has a bad apex seal ... she smoked for about 1/2 hour then stopped... other than the miss it now will start every time guess the next step will be tear it down and rebuild it... but that will be a winter project... Thanks for your help !
Old 09-05-18, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bones007
Well Hallelujah... got it running, someone (previous owner?) had the lead and trailing wires reversed, also had leading plugs in trailing holes I never checked because I assumed the last owner had them on right......but alas it has a bad rotor,,, it misses pretty good and will not idle unless you keep your foot on the gas, I am assuming it has a bad apex seal ... she smoked for about 1/2 hour then stopped... other than the miss it now will start every time guess the next step will be tear it down and rebuild it... but that will be a winter project... Thanks for your help !
That'll do it every time. Glad you got it running. At least you can replace all of the crappy vacuum lines and gaskets while you have the engine out. Best of luck.

PS wipe out your engine bay while the engines out.
Old 09-27-18, 09:53 AM
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If you think theres a problem with the omp, I would block that off first, since youre S4 you should have an easy time doing that. Change the oil and the plugs and try after that!
Old 09-27-18, 09:57 AM
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don't mean to sound like a real newb... but I am....what is a OMP? and S4?....
Old 09-27-18, 10:39 AM
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MOP = OMP = metering oil pump: a small mechanical or electrical pump on the front cover that meters oil into the rotor housing either via the intake manifold, rotor housings or both

S4 = Series 4: refers to Rx-7s manufactured between 1986 and 1988
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