Kyatler

So im rebuilding my FD3S engine since my apex seals blew out and most likely damaged both my housing and my rotor (compression is at .08 and 0 out of 100) and I cant find online what the torque weight should be for the flywheel nut, or for my pressure plate bolts for my clutch connecting to the flywheel, id like this information in preparation for my rebuild job since I have a deadline of two weeks to rebuild it.

Secondly I am curious, what is the sealent used to connect the oil pan to the lower engine block of a FD3S 13B engine? I see the sealent on videos everywhere but I can never find a product name or listing in a video for it, im very confused on what the sealent is and how it is properly used, if someone could help that would be amazing.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Flywheel nut is 40~50Kg/M. I'm not awake enough to do math yet (2nd cup of coffee...), but 350 ft.lbs is what most use for it. Pressure Plate is something like 14 ft.lbs, but don't quote me on that (brain still loading...). As for the Oil Pan, most seem to go by High Temperature RTV Sealant, while others swear by HondaBond. I've tried RTV, but it still leaked due to oil level being higher than the an flange, and generally just a aggravating mess. BMW automatic transmissions are the same way, to which I've actually had a failure from a brand new OEM pan gasket.

Generally speaking, an oil pan leaks fall into 3 categories
1. Uneven surface due to physical force (bent pan).
2. Sealing medium is oil-permeable (oil goes right through it). Pretty sure this is why BMWs are so well-known for leaks.
3. Gaps in seal due to incorrect application, insufficient torque, or bolts loosening after being tightened (gasket cannot seal properly a second time due to materials).

So after seeing ATF go right through the trans pan gasket on my E38, I left nothing to chance. Removed any of the previous gasket(s) using a plastic scraper, CRC gasket remover and some fine sandpaper for the stubborn bits from the aluminum case. Since the pan is stamped steel, I flipped the pan over on the garage floor (a known good flat surface)

Using a 3/8" socket extension and hammer, I gently started tapping along the flange area to push it toward the garage floor. It's an old-school metalworking technique called "Planishing", which in this case, ensures that the flange area is as flat as realistically possible without using a micrometer. Doesn't take much force, you only want to "nudge" the metal to move and contour to the anvil (flat garage floor). Most likely, under 1/16". Result is a pan with a smooth, flat mating flange.

Picked up some Fel-pro #3137 gasket material and made my own gasket from scratch, the same way I did for my 20B's turbo oil lines years ago. Attach the material to the pan with some clothespins, trace with a sharpie marker, including the bolt holes, and carefully start cutting to shape with regular scissors. A jeweler's screwdriver works well for poking out bolt holes. It helps to poke it through, then "thread" a M5 bolt through both the gasket and pan hole. Then replace the M5 bolt with a M6 one. It keeps the hole as small as possible (that's what she said... ), so it will hold the bolts in place during final install.

You may want to make a template with some posterboard first to practice on. Doing the bolt holes first before cutting out the middle is what I did. As long as you have at least 1/8" of material from the edge of each bolt hole to the edge of the gasket, you should be fine.

By using fresh Stainless steel hardware, a washer under each bolt head to spread tightening torque, anti-seize (because it's going into Aluminum) and Increased the pan bolt torque from 7-10 ft.lbs to 13 ft.lbs to compensate for the material's added compressability (should work well if the housings/irons' pan surface is slightly mismatched), it has been leak-free since I did it last year.

I'm fairly sure it would work rather well on a FD oil pan, as it is also a stamped steel pan, especially if combined with the Oil Pan Brace Kit from Banzai Racing.