What is your opinion for a JDM FD3S rebuild DIY??
#1
Sad to leave Japan June11
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What is your opinion for a JDM FD3S rebuild DIY??
Hello
I am not going to ask specifics.....or any real advice.
Bottom line.....my engine (2000 FD3S), front rotor failed compression.
I am considering attempting a rebuild on my own, using a rebuild kit and video.
I am not a mechanic.....but I am mechanically inclined.
I have access to all the tools and a rental garage for working.
Bottom line:
Being a novice at this sort of thing, do you think I can do it? Or am I wasting my time to even try?
Thats all I wanna know.
I have read many articles and blogs about beginners doing this succesfully on their own. I wanna know how realistic that is.
I am not going to ask specifics.....or any real advice.
Bottom line.....my engine (2000 FD3S), front rotor failed compression.
I am considering attempting a rebuild on my own, using a rebuild kit and video.
I am not a mechanic.....but I am mechanically inclined.
I have access to all the tools and a rental garage for working.
Bottom line:
Being a novice at this sort of thing, do you think I can do it? Or am I wasting my time to even try?
Thats all I wanna know.
I have read many articles and blogs about beginners doing this succesfully on their own. I wanna know how realistic that is.
#2
Yes it's twin turbo...
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I'm doing this my self, I also am not a mechanic professorially, I wanted to take on the project so I could get an intimate knowledge of these cars. So far its nothing extremely difficult, you just need the proper tools, an instructional video, the forum, and patience. Check out my thread, may be of some use to you, Good luck!
#3
Don't do it unless you have lots of cash or can get an experienced rotary specialist assist.
You could do it for sure and it may come out perfectly. Is it worth taking the chance it wont? You will learn more working with someone with knowledge on the subject and may avoid a lot headaches down the road.
You could do it for sure and it may come out perfectly. Is it worth taking the chance it wont? You will learn more working with someone with knowledge on the subject and may avoid a lot headaches down the road.
#5
needs more track time
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Read through Mahjik's experience as you contemplate
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/when-engines-break-pics-411874/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/when-engines-break-pics-411874/
#6
In the Garage
iTrader: (2)
"Do you think I can do it?" is a very difficult question to answer not knowing just how mechanically inclined you are.
Like others have mentioned, it is always best to have a rotary mechanic available for questions should you run into any issues. But the videos available are pretty good (I used one) and make sure you have the FSM on hand to reference as well. Between those, you at least have 99% of the information you need.
Do LOTS of research before you purchase a rebuild kit (really i'll help you, BUY OEM MAZDA except for the water seals and get those from Pineapple Racing). If you think spending a few hundred dollars less on a rebuild kit is worth it, you do not have the commitment and attention to detail required to build your motor.
I just did my first rebuild having never done one either. The biggest two things I learned while reviewing the rebuild process was 1) Take your time and 2) Attention to detail. Do NOT take any shortcuts and measure everything more than once. It really is not that difficult of a build, but compromises (even by 0.001") will result in issues later. Build it once, and build it right. If you mess something up (even just barely) throw it away and order a new one. Example, I tossed 3 side seals that were 0.001" farther than I wanted but still technically in spec according to the FSM. BUT I read on here what quality builders like those clearances to be and stuck to those. My engine turned out well, has great compression and has not had one issue since installation.
If this is a car you depend on for transportation, then just have a well-known engine builder put the motor together for you. If not, you will be too tempted to get in a hurry and make compromises.
Also, if you do not have all the tools required to do this, then just pay someone b/c the tools will put you into the same cost as paying a builder.
The rotary engine gets the bad reputation it has from poor builds, poor tuning, and improper care. Don't let yourself become part of the stereotype of unreliability.
Like others have mentioned, it is always best to have a rotary mechanic available for questions should you run into any issues. But the videos available are pretty good (I used one) and make sure you have the FSM on hand to reference as well. Between those, you at least have 99% of the information you need.
Do LOTS of research before you purchase a rebuild kit (really i'll help you, BUY OEM MAZDA except for the water seals and get those from Pineapple Racing). If you think spending a few hundred dollars less on a rebuild kit is worth it, you do not have the commitment and attention to detail required to build your motor.
I just did my first rebuild having never done one either. The biggest two things I learned while reviewing the rebuild process was 1) Take your time and 2) Attention to detail. Do NOT take any shortcuts and measure everything more than once. It really is not that difficult of a build, but compromises (even by 0.001") will result in issues later. Build it once, and build it right. If you mess something up (even just barely) throw it away and order a new one. Example, I tossed 3 side seals that were 0.001" farther than I wanted but still technically in spec according to the FSM. BUT I read on here what quality builders like those clearances to be and stuck to those. My engine turned out well, has great compression and has not had one issue since installation.
If this is a car you depend on for transportation, then just have a well-known engine builder put the motor together for you. If not, you will be too tempted to get in a hurry and make compromises.
Also, if you do not have all the tools required to do this, then just pay someone b/c the tools will put you into the same cost as paying a builder.
The rotary engine gets the bad reputation it has from poor builds, poor tuning, and improper care. Don't let yourself become part of the stereotype of unreliability.
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#8
In the Garage
iTrader: (2)
Most reputable builders on here utilize them. The OEM coolant seals are terrible, but the upside is all the other OEM parts for a build are great. There should be a lot of feedback on here about the pineapple seals, or you could always pm some of the veterans and builders on here.
#10
rotorhead
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Compared to a high performance piston engine build, there are basically no expensive specialty tools needed to rebuild a rotary engine unless you are pressing bearings in. You might use a dial indicator + magnetic base, a cheap micrometer set, and some feeler gauges. You could definitely do a build with just feeler guages to measure clearances and endplay on the eshaft. Often a visual inspection will be enough to tell you whether your housings and irons are good or not. If they're bad, often you'll be able to see it without measuring anything. Then you have some assembly lubricants and basic cleaning tools and solvents.
Usually on a high performance piston engine build you have to get the cylinder walls honed, then you need expensive micrometers to measure piston-to-wall clearances and bearing clearances. Then you might have to order oversize pistons and bearings to get everything in spec. There are also valve jobs and possibly degreeing cam(s) depending on the build. You don't have to directly deal with that stuff on a rotary.
Usually on a high performance piston engine build you have to get the cylinder walls honed, then you need expensive micrometers to measure piston-to-wall clearances and bearing clearances. Then you might have to order oversize pistons and bearings to get everything in spec. There are also valve jobs and possibly degreeing cam(s) depending on the build. You don't have to directly deal with that stuff on a rotary.
#11
Sad to leave Japan June11
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Lots of good information. Slowly my confidence is building.
I am located in Tokyo, and only have 3 months left here (unfortunately) so the timing of this sucks. It almost guarantees that I cannot sell it.
Most Americans OVER HERE will not touch it. And its hard to transfer my car over from me to a Japanese citizen.
I am in a pickle.
Some people told me to jus junk it. I have a problem with that! But since I cannot import back to the states.....looking kind of dark right now.....and limited my options.
So......I am strongly considering a rebuild. STRONGLY.
I am located in Tokyo, and only have 3 months left here (unfortunately) so the timing of this sucks. It almost guarantees that I cannot sell it.
Most Americans OVER HERE will not touch it. And its hard to transfer my car over from me to a Japanese citizen.
I am in a pickle.
Some people told me to jus junk it. I have a problem with that! But since I cannot import back to the states.....looking kind of dark right now.....and limited my options.
So......I am strongly considering a rebuild. STRONGLY.
#14
Sad to leave Japan June11
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I found some people on yahoo auctions.........doing over hauls 150,000 yen. 100,000 parts....all brand new.
http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d110109960
The point is......to recoup some of the money I spent on the vehicle that I spent. Hard to do that with a non-working engine. And avoid junking it. This car was running so damn good..........for a while.
Right?
We already talked to them....sounds good....actually.
http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d110109960
The point is......to recoup some of the money I spent on the vehicle that I spent. Hard to do that with a non-working engine. And avoid junking it. This car was running so damn good..........for a while.
Right?
We already talked to them....sounds good....actually.
Last edited by dirtyred2009; 04-03-11 at 01:05 AM.
#16
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For a year 2000 in this condition anywhere from 15K to 25K...rolling.
And...by the way.....when I set my mind to something.......determination will help me accomplish all.
Trust me....once I commit.......it all or nothing.
And...by the way.....when I set my mind to something.......determination will help me accomplish all.
Trust me....once I commit.......it all or nothing.
#17
In the Garage
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Compared to a high performance piston engine build, there are basically no expensive specialty tools needed to rebuild a rotary engine unless you are pressing bearings in. You might use a dial indicator + magnetic base, a cheap micrometer set, and some feeler gauges. You could definitely do a build with just feeler guages to measure clearances and endplay on the eshaft. Often a visual inspection will be enough to tell you whether your housings and irons are good or not. If they're bad, often you'll be able to see it without measuring anything. Then you have some assembly lubricants and basic cleaning tools and solvents.
Usually on a high performance piston engine build you have to get the cylinder walls honed, then you need expensive micrometers to measure piston-to-wall clearances and bearing clearances. Then you might have to order oversize pistons and bearings to get everything in spec. There are also valve jobs and possibly degreeing cam(s) depending on the build. You don't have to directly deal with that stuff on a rotary.
Usually on a high performance piston engine build you have to get the cylinder walls honed, then you need expensive micrometers to measure piston-to-wall clearances and bearing clearances. Then you might have to order oversize pistons and bearings to get everything in spec. There are also valve jobs and possibly degreeing cam(s) depending on the build. You don't have to directly deal with that stuff on a rotary.
Yup
#18
Rotary Enthusiast
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As long as you don't plan on any other mods just have a shop in japan do the rebuild, if the prices you quoted above are accurate. That price probably assumes you can re-use your irons, eshaft, rotors and housings though. How much mileage was on the engine?
I mean if you can spend $2-$3k and sell it for $15k it's worthwhile to do.
Since you're on a military base you probably have access to an auto hobby shop of some sort. Take the car in, pull the engine and break it down to inspect the damage. If everythings ok have a shop rebuild the shortblock in a week or two, reassemble the longblock and stick the sucker back in.
As long as you're not making any mods you shouldn't need much tuning, assuming your old tune was good.
I mean if you can spend $2-$3k and sell it for $15k it's worthwhile to do.
Since you're on a military base you probably have access to an auto hobby shop of some sort. Take the car in, pull the engine and break it down to inspect the damage. If everythings ok have a shop rebuild the shortblock in a week or two, reassemble the longblock and stick the sucker back in.
As long as you're not making any mods you shouldn't need much tuning, assuming your old tune was good.
#19
Radioactive Rotary Rocket
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I am almost positive he means 150,000 yen to 250,000 yen. The only RX7's I have seen close to $15-25,000 were at a dealership called GTNet. They have one small location that is packed with these kinds of rare cars. Spirit R, Bathurst R, some with as little as 8,000 kilometers and they are all cleaner and in better condition than they came off the production line. These cars were around 2,000,000 yen on the high end which is about $24,000 at today's exchange rate of 84.18. Around 2009 the exchange rate was 121 so that means that if you are spending USD here, everything is 40% more expensive. The up side to that for dirtyred is, even if he sells the car for 40% less than what he spent on it, he's breaking after he sends that JPY back to his American bank account.
So yeah if dirtyred wants to do the rebuild the Yakota auto hobby center has all the tools, I can lend a hand, the trick would just be selling it once it's done.
So yeah if dirtyred wants to do the rebuild the Yakota auto hobby center has all the tools, I can lend a hand, the trick would just be selling it once it's done.
#20
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#21
rotorhead
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If you run out of time you are going to have the worst of both worlds... a pile of parts and a full car to sell, or a car that is put together but is still a basketcase and not worth the extra money you put in to rebuild it.
#22
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Yeah.......many things to consider.......
I know.......
I will keep you all posted.
Worse case.........I will be taking a lot of 99spec parts with me to the states.
I know.......
I will keep you all posted.
Worse case.........I will be taking a lot of 99spec parts with me to the states.
#23
Radioactive Rotary Rocket
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I have access to the all Japan auto auction system and I can see every car auctioned in Japan. Just today there were 64 FD3S RX7's auctioned, and 26 were 2000-2002 MY's. Here are the results:
#24
Radioactive Rotary Rocket
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The price in blue was the starting price, the price in grey is what it actually sold for. It's a little complicated, but this should give you an idea for the prices.