This isn't terribly difficult to fix. If you don't feel like doing it, any reputable tire shop will put one in.

 

I'll be out of town (beach vacation), though I plan on making the next one after that. I'll go to Waldorf and Frederick, but Winchester is a bit far for me...

 

It was a rear stud. So off comes the hub, hello unnecessary new wheel bearing.

 

Sorry was out of town last week,

I'm in between on this one really depends on weather. I don't want to drive all the way out there in the FB if it's going to be hot and sunny. It really takes the energy out you so I'd not get anything else done on Sat


I popped a stud on the way to the last AutoX I participated in and fixed it in the parking-lot before I drove home (had a spare). I didn't need to redo any bearings, just removed the caliper and disk and used a wrench to loosen the bolt. Not even really sure I needed to do that. I know the front disks of the FB encapsulate the bearings but not the back. Did they change this on the FC?

 

On the back of the FC there isn't enough space between the hub flange and the knuckle to get the stud out or in. you have to separate them which destroys the bearing.

On the front, there is plenty of room though.

I suggest ARP studs I've had them on my car forever.

 

Hey guys I finally got my FC back after it's rebuild. This mechanic did a great job and got the motor running very well. Unfortunately the seals on my turbo are starting to go. Always an issue. Not sure if I should get the stock turbo rebuilt or go with a close to stock after market turbo. Suggestions?

 

It comes down to money and what you want to do with the car. If you like stock or near stock than stick with that. If you want more. Then well plan for it. New ECU, injectors, fuel pump, brakes, suspension etc would all be in order to do major turbo upgrade.

 

The stock turbo uses a proprietary flange, so you can't really bolt anything else onto it. So in reality it's getting a new manifold (which adds a lot of cost) or just sticking with stock or modified stock (BNR).

I'd go with a BNR stage 2, they're a nice middle ground.

I'm going to be selling mine in the fall if you want to wait.

 

Oh that'd probably work out very very well if the price is right. I don't have the cash on hand right now for a new one at this time, so I'd have to wait anyway. The rebuild cost a pretty penny, so my funds for the car are low.

 

Are there any rotary rebuild shops in the dc area, just want to know for future reference, and i also reallly want to port my n/a

 

I know of a guy that does rebuilds from his garage, and he is close to your area. He does not have a shop, but he does have a low 7 second race car

 

I just got my motor rebuilt by a guy named Ray Whitney down in Fredericksburg. Really good guy and really good mechanic. Has rebuilt a ton of rotaries and did a great job with mine. No complaints so far. Here's his website Home

 

Do you have his info, also anyone, how much should a street port job start to finish run me? with engine still in functioning car.

 

The best person to ask about costs is the mechanic/shop that is going to do the work. usual rebuild cost range is around $1k-$3k depending on the person. This is exclusive of the new parts that are needed. Depending on what you can/want to reuse the cost for the materials can vary here are some prices for basic kits LINK.

Since yours hasn't blown yet, you probably don't need to replace any of the rotors, housings, side-plates, etc so you might not need to spend extra there. But removing it from the car and putting it back in and getting it running will cost you too.

Porting is going to be ~$600 depending on how big you want to go.

A safe* option that isn't too expensive is to pull it yourself and ship it off to a re-builder that will do the work and send it back. One such builder

Alternatively, just do it yourself. It's not that hard and if you don't mind having the car down for a bit its definitely the cheap way to go. You don't even need a garage, Wes put his together and ported it in his basement. The motors really aren't that heavy, we carried it out of the basement and up the stairs dangling from a 2x4 by a ratchet strap.




*no personal experience with this builder

 

Anyone down for CFA tonight?

 

How long would you think it would take a newbie to remove the block out of their 2nd gen?

 

Removing the engine is fairly easy and straightforward, just disconnect everything from the engine. What takes time is removing things without breaking them. Keeping things organized so when you put it back together you don't get lost. Some of the annoying parts to remove it might be quicker and easier to break and buy new ones. I did this for my oil cooler lines, got them replaced at a hydraulic shop for like $15.

I am not a mechanic, although I would consider myself mechanically inclined. I don't know anything fancy or own fancy equipment (as Rocky mentioned we removed my engine with lumber and ratchet straps ). Here is my breakdown of timing:

Remove the engine - 6 hours
Disassemble block - 4 hours
Clean - days and days and days and days (this is the time you can wait for your new stuff to arrive, once you figure out what needs to be replaced)
Port - 3 hours
Re-assemble block - 2 hours (longer if you are replacing side seals, slow and steady for these)
Install - 6 hours
Start for the first time - 4 hours (not typical, but what a joy when it fires up)

This was my first time removing an engine and rebuilding it. But I was familiar with my engine bay.

My thoughts are try it yourself; if you fail give it to a pro, but if you succeed, you saved money and learned how to do it. Rebuilding the engine is loads of fun. Also, if you do it yourself, buy a DVD from mazdatrix or similar that show you how to port/rebuild. They give you insight for things to look for as well.

 

My problem is that I don't have money to give it to a pro.

 

hahaha good times.

 

Didn't see this till just now. Probably too late, but I may still head over there in a bit.

 

Talked to him about it, and he said that he is not building motors for street cars anymore

 

Dulles CF on Friday was interesting. The crowd is getting a bit " toxic" IMO. After dark its not a good place to show unless you have a concealed permit. I think I may be over the age limit for that group. ....

 

Has anyone been to the new Cars and Coffee out in Dulles? I haven't been yet, but I've see pictures of a couple FDs that were out there yesterday.

 

cross posting here from the Maryland thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/ne-rx-7-foru...-meet-1087334/

RX-7 meet this Sunday in Columbia, MD.

 

I was at CFA on Friday with my bike, but I usually leave before it gets too stupid. Didn't see anyone from the club while I was there.

I've stopped by the new Sunday C&C a few times - it disbands a lot earlier than the Fairfax one did. Basically over by 9am. I have seen a bunch of different cars that weren't at any of the other meets though.