Worth spending the extra money for Haltech LS1 ignition coils or go for OEM FC?
#1
Worth spending the extra money for Haltech LS1 ignition coils or go for OEM FC?
So i'm ditching the fuel-only Haltech F9 computer, specifically due to limitations of aux outputs, but also because I know I will want a fully managed ignition down the road. Looking into the Megasquirt MSIII w/ msx board.
So I'm in the market for an ignition setup, and I'm going to need to buy everything as I currently have the GSL-SE distributor ignition, coils, and ignitors.
I'm budgeting about $100 for a complete OEM FC ignition, including CAS, and I do believe that 4 LS1 coils would go for $280 (minus CAS which would probably be like $30)
So basically the LS1 route would be 3 times the expense, but I'm wondering if I would regret not getting it right up front, and having to pay for additional dyno time and re-tune down the road if/when I decide to upgrade.
Engine setup is an S5 street port 6 port w/ VDI, 2.75" exhaust.
My goals for the car are as wide a power band as possible, ultimate streetable machine, fully track capable. Looking to get into hillclimbs and auto-x.
So I'm in the market for an ignition setup, and I'm going to need to buy everything as I currently have the GSL-SE distributor ignition, coils, and ignitors.
I'm budgeting about $100 for a complete OEM FC ignition, including CAS, and I do believe that 4 LS1 coils would go for $280 (minus CAS which would probably be like $30)
So basically the LS1 route would be 3 times the expense, but I'm wondering if I would regret not getting it right up front, and having to pay for additional dyno time and re-tune down the road if/when I decide to upgrade.
Engine setup is an S5 street port 6 port w/ VDI, 2.75" exhaust.
My goals for the car are as wide a power band as possible, ultimate streetable machine, fully track capable. Looking to get into hillclimbs and auto-x.
#2
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best bang for the buck is 4 FC trailing coils…
best bang for the buck is 4 FC trailing coils…
#3
Old [Sch|F]ool
You're comparing used FC stuff to new aftermarket stuff.
You should be able to get a rack of LS1 or LS2 style coils from a junkyard for $40-50. They never go bad so there's little demand for them.
You should be able to get a rack of LS1 or LS2 style coils from a junkyard for $40-50. They never go bad so there's little demand for them.
#5
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a couple things i think are worth mentioning ...
1. i can't confirm the price range Peejay mentioned, but i do know that some of the Rx-8 guys buy a "full set" and split them.
2. i think the Yukon/Tahoe is one of the vehicles that they came in
3. do some homework on this before you start looking for coils because i vaguely remember reading over at the Rx8 Club (hella reliable source, i know ) that there is a potential issue with dwell times for the LS1 coils. basically, the conclusion was LS2 coils were better for our applications/needs ...
whichever ones correspond to part numbers: D585, D581 and D514A
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the FC coils offer more spark energy than the LSx coils.
#7
Old [Sch|F]ool
Unbolt coil rack from either side of the engine. Done.
Or you do like me and check out car-part and have them deliver the parts to the shop
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#9
Awesome - thanks for the tip on the OEM setup guys.
I'm either going 4x trailing, or just the stock dual leading coil, individual trailing coils. My buddy told me that because I'm NA I wouldn't benefit from 4x trailing coils much?? Seems to me that direct coil-near-plug x4 would be the tech. What's the practical difference? anyone got some links I could read up on?
I'm either going 4x trailing, or just the stock dual leading coil, individual trailing coils. My buddy told me that because I'm NA I wouldn't benefit from 4x trailing coils much?? Seems to me that direct coil-near-plug x4 would be the tech. What's the practical difference? anyone got some links I could read up on?
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#16
Rotary Freak
Forgive my unknowing questions, but is it better to split the signal leads to the coil packs and run the 4 coils from the split signals? I am looking for a stupid person wiring diagram.
Also I am assuming that you use one of the trailing coil spark plug wire recepticles and block off the other one.
Yes???? I can do the mechanical or physical setup of the systems, I am a bit uncertain as to the theories of exactly how to do it.
Thanks,
Eric
Also I am assuming that you use one of the trailing coil spark plug wire recepticles and block off the other one.
Yes???? I can do the mechanical or physical setup of the systems, I am a bit uncertain as to the theories of exactly how to do it.
Thanks,
Eric
#17
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im unfamiliar with MS ecus, but if you have 4 ignition outputs (direct fire) bosch makes a really nice ignitor module that puts out more current than the factory ignitors. use this with the factory coils, charge to 4-5ms and you would have a beastly spark
Bosch 0 227 100 211 Ignition Control with MegaSquirt-II
if you are lmiited to running factory setup (wasted leading spark and toggled trailing), you can actually run direct fire by swapping the factory leading coil with a trailing and splicing into the toggle signal. I think BDC has a writeup for it in the haltech section of this forum. you have to run the factory ignitors in this setup to get the toggle function, which max out at around 3.5ms charge.
you could also run the bosch ignitor on wasted spark too and you could squeeze a little more energy out of them, but it will not be ideal. the leading coil has less energy output than the trailing, since it gets fired into two spark plugs instead of one
Bosch 0 227 100 211 Ignition Control with MegaSquirt-II
if you are lmiited to running factory setup (wasted leading spark and toggled trailing), you can actually run direct fire by swapping the factory leading coil with a trailing and splicing into the toggle signal. I think BDC has a writeup for it in the haltech section of this forum. you have to run the factory ignitors in this setup to get the toggle function, which max out at around 3.5ms charge.
you could also run the bosch ignitor on wasted spark too and you could squeeze a little more energy out of them, but it will not be ideal. the leading coil has less energy output than the trailing, since it gets fired into two spark plugs instead of one
#18
Find any GM truck made after 2000. If your junkyards are like ours you're not going to find anything older than that anyway so this is not a problem.
Unbolt coil rack from either side of the engine. Done.
Or you do like me and check out car-part and have them deliver the parts to the shop
Unbolt coil rack from either side of the engine. Done.
Or you do like me and check out car-part and have them deliver the parts to the shop
Can anyone else confirm that you can use any LS1 coils that are made after 2000?
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