I thought that Mazda still used Idemitsu oil specialized for Rotaries?

 

Hmmmm..I guess I actually have no clue about Mazda race teams.
Thread on Synthetic https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+mazda+premium

I guess I meant to say, some teams that race mazda rotaries use premium synthetic.

 

Racing Beat Article
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm

That article links to Royal Purples section on RP in Rotary Engines.
http://royalpurple.com/rp-faqs.html

 

In reality, almost any synthetic will provide power over regular oil. The reason being is that because its more "slippery", it provides better interaction between part, that translates into less friction between parts also. On Piston engines you can see about 10 degrees celcius drop between regular and synthetic. On the Formula SAE engine that I'm working on right now we saw about 7 *C. Less heat all around usually translates into better efficiency also, hence the increase in a couple of horsepower. The advantages don't stop just there neither, because synthetic oils can maintain their properties for a longer period of time, if you're runing an endurance race, by the near end of it you don't loose as much HP as synthetics usually neither.

I'n the near future if we have time I can try to buy a whole bunch of different synthetics and try to get temperatures readings when doing engine dyno runs with our engine.

 

...you don't loose as much HP as...

C'mon, maihn....you do know the difference, right? If the Formula engine is for the annual college competition that was basically owned by UTA all these years, does this mean you teach the course or are you a student. Don't LOSE sight of the details...details matter.

And would it be this...? I found this in my files...I wonder if the parts numbers are still good...the adaptor here mounts the HD water pump to the rotary engine block.


circa, who knows...?

 

one thing should be veiwed right here. Power consumption! though all this is great on the numbers for the horsepower, you can only do so much on electric power. Think about this - you have the headlights going, heater blasting, stereo going, and that electric fan - Whats happening? most likely your 70 amp stock FC alternator is working hard and not really charging the system much at all. Then you add electric water pump, upgraded fuel pump, electric oil pump, ect. So now you get rid of all that weight and tension on the pulley system, but will the upgrade to a high output alternator suddenly strain in a new place and reverse some of the work?

Im not questioning the electric vs. mechanical when compared to hp, im just curious to find that magical little midway were the power evens out.

 

I'm neither a student there nor a teacher, I'm just there to help out really. I am by no mean an expert at any of this stuff, but I'm just saying what i've seen.

Just curious what details are you referring too?

 

I cant believe that all the time that ive been here that noones done a dyno like this..When i was trying to make power out of my old GXL i had asked about replacing the clutch fan with an E-fan but everyone told me it was a waste. If i would have seen this then i would have definatly done it!
To the people who contributed to the thread in a positive way i thank you!..For changing my thought's about this topic and setting me straight! Never did i think i was completely right but ya know me i love a good debate and i got showed up!

I would love to see a before and after dyno now with stock port UIM,LIM and ported LIM,UIM...Maybe even with the sleeves removed and cleaned up.

Any way peace guy's

 

Just curious what details are you referring too?

LOL....did you do that on porpoise?



I cant believe that all the time that ive been here that noones done a dyno like this...

In an episode of been there, done that, I can tell you the dyno guys on dyno day are not real keen on major changes like that where the car has to stay strapped down while everything is changed over to make sure the variances are kept to a minimum. It's even worse if it's a group dyno day where the participants just pay $35 or so for three pulls and then you say you want to change just the air filter for the last pull.......everybody starts grumbling as you jump up there with your "test" part making everyone wait.

 

The reason no one has done this is becaue it's common sense. Just go to any dragstrip and see what most of the guys are running and look at their set ups. I guarantee 99.9 % are not running a clutch fan, etc. This is old news.

 

In the case of intuition disagreeing with empirical evidence, you need hard proof. No one wanted to do it though.

 

It's definitely true that nothing is free. If you put enough strain on the electrical system, of course you'll have to upgrade the alternator, wiring, etc to keep up with demand. That's just the way it goes. Sure a larger alternator may take a little bit more effort to spin than a smaller one. Fortunately the gains you get from going all electric on the accessories such as water pump, p/s, etc is more than enough to offset this. Sure you will accrue some loss to a larger charging system but in the overall scheme of things you gain. While you can't get anything for free, it's really all about just being more efficient as far as the total is concerned and a properly designe and sized electrical system along with all electric accessories will always be more efficient in the end than all belt driven components.

 

Dude you dont know me..Ive been to the strip over 15 times in the last 2 years! Everyone i know run's a stock clutch fan.Some of these are car's that have well over 400hp (300zxtt) What i asked was a simple question every car is different,some dont make the same power as others when certain things are done.

Most of you guy's on here just pretent you know **** but guess what? you dont! You just wait for the good bedate to be over then chim in saying the guy who was wrong was stupid and you knew the right answer all along...You contributed nothing to this thread all i did was contribute a good argument...And yeah i was wrong soo what everyone is at some point in time..I can live with that so take your troll *** and be gone!

Happy Valentine's day everyone.

 

Im not going to lie....I like hard proof!

For now one you wont see me arguing this any longer...Ill be shooting people this direction if they have questions.

 

Do we ever get to see the video that was promised? I'm starting to lose hope....

 

For us poor boy N/A owners these upgrades will be very helpful. I'm pretty broke right now so your advice is just what I need to get that extra little hump out of my pride and joy, many thanks

 

I never posted the video, I have completed editing the video, but it is horrible if you want me to be honest. I will load it soon, I will show, Just wasn't what I wanted or invisioned.

Jackson

 

Well it appears that you and your buddies need to lose those clutch fans and get with the program because your losing horespower.

And what good arguement did you contribute? All I read was a guy who thought he knew something and didn't and got biotch slapped in the end. I guess we live and learn right?

 

Well it appears that you and your buddies need to lose those clutch fans and get with the program because your losing horespower.

So damn glad to see that someone on the 'Net still knows the correct use and spelling of the word....

Lose the stock mech/clutch fan for an Efan, get a minimum 5% increase of rwhp....that's all anyone needs to know regarding the "non"-debate over fans....

 

So why doesnt someone now try to figure out how much going to SAFCII will increase rwhp on a stock port s4? I ve heard that it idles real rich and can be leaned out a bit for more some hp.

 

I add fuel up top on my engine to get more power. After adding a highflow exhaust and intake im sure it doesn't run nearly as rich as it would have stock. In either case, I keep hearing it runs rich because of how it smells at idle, which has absolutly nothing to do with how rich it runs everywhere else.

 

I figure you could gain the same amount of horsepower as seen here https://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-168/thumbs-up-s5-na-2-0-a-668832/
granted it is rtek all he adjusted was the fuel.

 

What kind of fuel controller are you using and are you using a wide band or narrowband? From what i understand you can take fuel away up to between 3k and 4.5k rpm's.

 

I would recommend using a good wideband to know for sure. You want to run as lean as possible on the low end for fuel economy and run a tad rich on the high end- for street use. Using a wideband will take all the guessing games out of the picture, unless you can strap your buddy's nose to the end of your tailpipe and test at 8000rpm's. LOL

 

for that extra little hp, dyno sheets of various Sparkplugs

http://www.sparkplugs.com/sparkplug4...fid=0&KID=3095