I fail to begin to theorize how engine compression has anything to do with exhaust gaskets. At all.

 

I recommend doing a compression test with an exaust leak to prove my theory if you are curious.

 

Why don't you try to explain what is supposed to happen? instead of just throwing a vague statement out there and not explain anything.

I also fail to see how 10,1 rotors (highest comp available that i know of) would make any difference to the exhaust gasket vs a 9,7 or 9,4 rotor.

 

I've done compression tests on engines that had no exhaust systems on them at all. What's your point?

Even then, a compression test has little to do with the engine's static compression ratio...

 

Another way to increase compression is to use higher octane gas.

 

Lol are you serious marker?

 

someone has some reading to do.

 

lmao

This kid is loose. Maybe he needs to give himself a compression check - there's definitely hot air escaping...

 

Fixed.

 

 

Aw, I was waiting to hear about the merits of Eurobeat vs. J-pop regarding how it affects the compression ratio.

I always build engines to metal. Speed metal for racing engines, flowery symphonic "holy crap this solo has been going on for 15 minutes already" metal for purely street engines. I tried building an engine while listening to Fear Factory but that engine only lasted a few weeks.

 

lemme guess ... head gasket issue?

 

I started out wanting to build a Replica of my old TII engine but instead went with a New Breed of street ported 6-port irons, but dust turned the side seals into Edgecrushers and the engine started to Demanufacture itself.

I screwed around with other 6-ports, but they were always hurtfully slow, so in A Therapy For Pain, I went full bridge 4-port which was a Manic Cure.

 

Honestly, I wouldn't ever go straightpipe on any vehicle that was meant for the street. Bottom end suffers where top end power increases.

 

Back to the books.

 

Very true, I would be more concerned with the noise on a street car. Don't want my ears bleeding on the way to subway, lol.

 

Sounds like full of "books" but little actual experience with building or even driving cars.

Shall we recap all of the other "internet knowledge" about rotaries?

- Bridge and peripheral port engines don't idle below 3000rpm and don't do anything until 7000rpm and CERTAINLY can never be driven on the street
- Never use premium fuel in a N/A, it will make less power
- You can't run a turbo on a bridge port or peripheral port engine
- You can rev them to like 15,000rpm stock

let's see... what other BS wrong information is there...

- Bridge port engines only last 10,000mi before the bridge cracks out and the engine blows up

 

Drive time is at a premium nowadays. My next step is installing a presilencer downpipe for a N/A RX-7. Any suggestions?

 

i use a 17mm socket, and go from under the car, its much quicker than say the top.

oh and get new exhaust gaskets, the OE Mazda metal reinforced style, as you wouldn't want to blow one out

 

I like your approach to getting things done. I'm usually too lazy to get the car off all fours after a full week of work. Sometimes you just have to weekend warrior belt on and take care of business. I'm trying to retain as much hot air as possible.

 

 

This made my day... Was just listening to "Martyr" by them when I came across your post.