Naturally Aspirated Performance Forum Discussion of naturally-aspirated rotary performance. No Power Adders, only pure rotary power! From the "12A" to the "RENESIS" and beyond.

Porting mistake and porting question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 11, 2009 | 10:17 AM
  #1  
D7ig's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Kempen, Germany
Porting mistake and porting question

Hi,

yesterday I started porting my housings and i jumped with the grinder out of the port
Look at the picture:

(inside the red marking you can see my work)
You can feel the marks a little bit with the fingernail.

Is that housing now very good for looking at it on rainy days? Or can i use it if i (maybe) polish the spots?


Another question:
Here is the primary port - i started with the porting:


I'm using the pineapple "large street port" templates. Maybe you can see the marking on the picture at the top left of the port. I should go further, but i am unsure how far and "deep" i can go (i don't want a hole to the coolant).

Thanks for advice,
Daniel
Reply
Old May 11, 2009 | 10:31 AM
  #2  
now's Avatar
now
Rotary Freak
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 4
From: alberta, canada
is that porous spots around the port?
if so they are worse than what you did,
I would say make sure you smooth down what you did and you should be fine.
my 2 cents
matt
Reply
Old May 11, 2009 | 10:41 AM
  #3  
D7ig's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Kempen, Germany
Hi matt,

the black spots around the port is paint for the porting template markings.

Thanks for advice!

Daniel
Reply
Old May 11, 2009 | 01:42 PM
  #4  
j9fd3s's Avatar
Moderator
Community Builder
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by now
is that porous spots around the port?
if so they are worse than what you did,
I would say make sure you smooth down what you did and you should be fine.
my 2 cents
matt
yeah, intake stroke outside of the oil seal
Reply
Old May 11, 2009 | 02:44 PM
  #5  
allbee's Avatar
Full Member
Tenured Member 15 Years
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: ohio
I just did the same thing porting out one of the end plates. Probly a little worse than yours. I sent it to be lapped so I'll see what the lapping did for my screw up.I'll let you know.
Reply
Old May 11, 2009 | 04:36 PM
  #6  
Mazdanowski's Avatar
Junior Member
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
I think most of us that rebuild motors port the housings first before we take housing in to get lapped. That helps with that problem. Remember it is not the low spot that the grinder dug out. You won't even lose 1 hp. It is the high spot that will catch a seal and nick it up. For a friend who nicked his housing, that did not need lapping, I cleaned it up with a palm sander and progressively finer grit. Just don't scratch it all up. It takes some time. If you have an old junk housing or piece of metal practice on that first.

Regarding the closing edge I don't own one of pineapples templates so I don't know how far they took it. But personally I like to make it a very gradual taper. That way the incoming air doesn't have to make that sharp bend. Plus it you are just adding a radius to that closing lip you don't have to worry to much about the water jacket.

On some of my housing, can't remember if they were the 12A or 13B, I can stick my little finger in the water jacket and reach the backside of the intake port. Then I know how much material is left and how close that template maker makes it. I think on the S4 I could stick a wire down the EGR passage and get a little idea how thick the casting was in that one spot. Again that is only from memory.

FYI I now run some pretty long grinding bits that I never walk all the way out. I also hold the grinder with two hands and rest them on my work. Even so I often tape off the unported area or lay a piece of scrap sheet metal over it so I can't knick one (any more).

My two cents.
Reply
Old May 14, 2009 | 04:24 AM
  #7  
diabolical1's Avatar
Moderator
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 10,998
Likes: 349
From: FL
i used to do that all the time when i first started. none of my ported engines have shown bad compression or smoking. i think you'be fine. i've learned to use duct tape for surface protection, so for future reference, try that. good luck with your build.
Reply
Old May 14, 2009 | 11:39 AM
  #8  
peejay's Avatar
Old [Sch|F]ool
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 12,862
Likes: 568
From: Cleveland, Ohio, USA
The front housing on my current engine had a bunch of dents/dimples in it, near the top about an inch below the coolant seal area. Smack dab in the middle of the side seal track, in other words. (It looked like it was transported with something else next to it and dinged it several times) Every ding had a raised area around it.

I first gently used a *swank* miniature, curved file to clean off most of the high spots, then the leading edge of a small regular file to shave off most of the rest. Then I kept running my finger over it and used a sharp gasket scraper to shave them down to the level around the housings.

About 9k on the engine, so far still has great compression.
Reply
Old May 14, 2009 | 01:38 PM
  #9  
Jeff20B's Avatar
Lapping = Fapping
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 15,725
Likes: 91
From: Near Seattle
The dents are tiny and the seals move past quickly.
Reply
Old May 15, 2009 | 08:30 AM
  #10  
D7ig's Avatar
Thread Starter
Full Member
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Kempen, Germany
Hi,

that is nice to know, thank you guys! :-)

Daniel
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
The1Sun
New Member RX-7 Technical
9
Mar 18, 2018 11:08 PM
hotshot2014
New Member RX-7 Technical
8
Jul 18, 2017 02:30 PM
Skeese
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
65
Mar 28, 2017 03:30 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:20 PM.