.

 

I have never seen anyone take the bridgeport beyond the scope of an eyebrow. I would be interested to see how that behaved. Idle at 5,000rpm, with 4,000rpm fluctuations?

 

Engine was a 2 rotor, and was paired up to Twin HKS GT3037S turbos.

Made over 830 horsepower at 11,500 rpms.

 

Amazing. Are there any videos of the car idling or running?

 

And made one pass before the water seals blew.

 

Lets all get along... I am monitoring this thread for flames, etc.

 

Holy S__t

 

...moar.....

 

*** that ****, you could get that out of a stage 2 with the right setup. Never worrying about the funky sealing issues.

 

yea but a D port engine NA will be as good as PP and make almost the same power.....I had a 12 a D port NA with a crappy holley make 216 on a dyno jet....not even well tuned....
I would guess with a bored out IDA i would have done a little better...idle was about 1600 and made power from about 4500 to 9500..it was fun..but yea water seals always a scary issue..LOL
PP all the way babe

 

it could be a little large for most turbo setups but they do go well n/a,ive talked to people using them in racecars and they find the tourque curve beter than a pp(using non close ratio g/boxs i think)the only worry for a street car is those water seals,i have heard of a guy getting 8 months of daily driving between rebuilds!!

 

that being the only down side........smaller bridge turbo would be great for street i think

 

There was a guy on Usenet a decade or so ago who finally had to pull apart his J-ported 13B after 13 years because it finally started seeping coolant.

 

wow a 13 year old j-port!! that's a thing of legends!

 

wow a 13 year old j-port!! that's a thing of legends!

Stake the ends of the groove for the cut outer coolant seal so you don't suck your seal into the port and run zero pressure coolant system with PG coolant so you don't blow coolant past the sealant added to the side plate.

1 piece ceramic apex seals (with coated springs) instead of carbon.

Keep the revs down (the hard part-lol)

Oh, and learn to read lips...

 

Yeah, everyone was pretty shocked that it lasted that long.

IIRC it was a regular old carbon seal engine, remember if it was 1998-1999 or so then it would have been built in the mid 80's when ceramic seals were not available, and certainly not going to go in some guy's RX-4 weekend car. Distance was in the 50,000km range.

I doubt it had a zero-pressure cooling system, either.

PS - I'm running coolant seals with a joint at the intake port. This past rallycross I saw my temp gauge peg. So I finished the run with fingers crossed but pedal still bolted to the floor. Well hell, what was I going to do, let off? The thermostat was stuck shut, which would also explain why it was running ~220f on the highway in the rain while on my way to the event.

Still not sucking coolant.

 

the only time i ever overheated enough to hurt anything it chipped the apex seals in rotor2... only coolant seal failure I had was on a 350,000 mile S313b. It was still running when I pulled it. With the leak it ran 14.2's and made 140whp. The guy I sold it to put it in his B2000. **** Honda reliability.