First time porting tips.
02-25-13, 03:00 AM
#1
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First time porting tips.
Hi all.
.im going to be streetporting my stock 12A for the first time and i was wondering with
the wealth of knowledge on this forum if theres any must have tips or even some good
"how to" vids out there.
This wont be happening overnight (probably 6 months or so till its all finished).
I'll be looking at racing beat templates.
I grew up in the workshop with my dad so im not a newbie, im just new to porting is all.
Some precious knowledge and experience or even a few links to some useful info would be much appreciated.
PS. I will be doing a thread on the newly purchased weapon once the ball gets rolling.
.im going to be streetporting my stock 12A for the first time and i was wondering with
the wealth of knowledge on this forum if theres any must have tips or even some good
"how to" vids out there.
This wont be happening overnight (probably 6 months or so till its all finished).
I'll be looking at racing beat templates.
I grew up in the workshop with my dad so im not a newbie, im just new to porting is all.
Some precious knowledge and experience or even a few links to some useful info would be much appreciated.
PS. I will be doing a thread on the newly purchased weapon once the ball gets rolling.
02-25-13, 01:56 PM
#2
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if you have a junk iron to practice on, its good, just so you get a feel for how your tool cuts.
02-25-13, 05:17 PM
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Good idea. Im also wondering if the carbide tips are user friendly or best to stick with the stones, i"ll be using an electric Dremel. I put a link below dont know if it will work or not.
http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/tool%20guide.pdf
http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/tool%20guide.pdf
02-25-13, 06:48 PM
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i like the carbide tip on the rotor housing, but i use the stone on the irons.
02-25-13, 06:53 PM
#5
you'd be doing yourself a huge favor by getting the right tools. in addition to your templates, you will need carbide bits, stones, sanding drums, sandpaper (and/or assorted emory cloths) and duct tape. while getting a degree wheel is not necessary, you can get one for free and i think it''s a great tool to learn the concepts of porting as well as double-checking your work.
steady hands, speed control, a lot of patience are key.
aside from that, do what J9fd3s said and get a couple practice housings.
steady hands, speed control, a lot of patience are key.
aside from that, do what J9fd3s said and get a couple practice housings.
02-25-13, 07:11 PM
#6
talking head
can of cheap spray paint , a dowel fixed template , a scribe and a set square are the bits people neglect to mention
( and drill press and bits if doing the bridge at home )
IMO the stones are not much hop
.. a couple of tulip shaped double cut burs ( one medium one small ) and a straight tile cutting bit ( for bridge port eyebrow ) and a drum with paper rolls to finish will be ample for most
if you are cutting a lot of metal the an aggressive single cut tool can be used to get there quickly but they do gouge and you have to hold the tool with your hand bracing against a kick
the trick is not only in the handywork
.. its in knowing how your particular template interacts with different plates
and thus knowing where the casting can be pushed in cutting bowl area on those various different plates
the set square is handy for that on pre 91 engines . it can be used as a guide to where the runner casting lay
on later engines the runners are on an angle downwards and so the rule above is not quite true and so you need the right template to exploit top and bottom bridge potential
( and drill press and bits if doing the bridge at home )
IMO the stones are not much hop
.. a couple of tulip shaped double cut burs ( one medium one small ) and a straight tile cutting bit ( for bridge port eyebrow ) and a drum with paper rolls to finish will be ample for most
if you are cutting a lot of metal the an aggressive single cut tool can be used to get there quickly but they do gouge and you have to hold the tool with your hand bracing against a kick
the trick is not only in the handywork
.. its in knowing how your particular template interacts with different plates
and thus knowing where the casting can be pushed in cutting bowl area on those various different plates
the set square is handy for that on pre 91 engines . it can be used as a guide to where the runner casting lay
on later engines the runners are on an angle downwards and so the rule above is not quite true and so you need the right template to exploit top and bottom bridge potential
02-26-13, 11:43 PM
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EDIT: In reply to j9fd3s.
Ok. Im just looking at the shaft on the bigger carbide tips and i dont think they will
fit the small chuck of the Dremel. im seeing some new tools in my future.
Ok. Im just looking at the shaft on the bigger carbide tips and i dont think they will
fit the small chuck of the Dremel. im seeing some new tools in my future.
Last edited by zonnk; 02-26-13 at 11:44 PM. Reason: forgot to quote.
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02-26-13, 11:52 PM
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you'd be doing yourself a huge favor by getting the right tools. in addition to your templates, you will need carbide bits, stones, sanding drums, sandpaper (and/or assorted emory cloths) and duct tape. while getting a degree wheel is not necessary, you can get one for free and i think it''s a great tool to learn the concepts of porting as well as double-checking your work.
steady hands, speed control, a lot of patience are key.
aside from that, do what J9fd3s said and get a couple practice housings.
steady hands, speed control, a lot of patience are key.
aside from that, do what J9fd3s said and get a couple practice housings.
I do have a steady hand but the patience i'll have to work on a bit Ha.
Good tips, thanks for your input diabolical1
02-27-13, 12:13 AM
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can of cheap spray paint , a dowel fixed template , a scribe and a set square are the bits people neglect to mention
( and drill press and bits if doing the bridge at home )
IMO the stones are not much hop
.. a couple of tulip shaped double cut burs ( one medium one small ) and a straight tile cutting bit ( for bridge port eyebrow ) and a drum with paper rolls to finish will be ample for most
if you are cutting a lot of metal the an aggressive single cut tool can be used to get there quickly but they do gouge and you have to hold the tool with your hand bracing against a kick
the trick is not only in the handywork
.. its in knowing how your particular template interacts with different plates
and thus knowing where the casting can be pushed in cutting bowl area on those various different plates
the set square is handy for that on pre 91 engines . it can be used as a guide to where the runner casting lay
on later engines the runners are on an angle downwards and so the rule above is not quite true and so you need the right template to exploit top and bottom bridge potential
( and drill press and bits if doing the bridge at home )
IMO the stones are not much hop
.. a couple of tulip shaped double cut burs ( one medium one small ) and a straight tile cutting bit ( for bridge port eyebrow ) and a drum with paper rolls to finish will be ample for most
if you are cutting a lot of metal the an aggressive single cut tool can be used to get there quickly but they do gouge and you have to hold the tool with your hand bracing against a kick
the trick is not only in the handywork
.. its in knowing how your particular template interacts with different plates
and thus knowing where the casting can be pushed in cutting bowl area on those various different plates
the set square is handy for that on pre 91 engines . it can be used as a guide to where the runner casting lay
on later engines the runners are on an angle downwards and so the rule above is not quite true and so you need the right template to exploit top and bottom bridge potential
Hi bumpstart.
Im just streetporting at the moment so no bridging just yet im afraid, maybe on the next one.I like the idea with the set square and also wondering how big a streetport can go. I guess the racingbeat or pineapple template would be sufficient.
04-21-14, 06:12 AM
#11
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I'm also new to the porting issue and am still in the info geathering/reading. I would like to know if there is any diffrence to the plates of a 12A, in my car is an engine with N plates but i have spare plates who are R5 and 3B i can see that the ports are different but are there more? and is one plate more suiteble for porting than the other?
Last edited by klabatzie; 04-21-14 at 06:14 AM. Reason: additional info
04-21-14, 08:03 AM
#12
The racing beat carbides are a rip off, go find a local industry supply store that sells burrs and abrasives among other handy machining equipment and components.
I use carbides on the irons, stones take to long. This is kind of the order of attack when I do porting.
Various carbides -> stones -> cartridge abbrasives -> flapper wheels -> polishing
Various carbides -> stones -> cartridge abbrasives -> flapper wheels -> polishing
