I have a 90 n/a rx7 that I have ran in a 24 hour of LeMons event and I need more power! I picked up a 3 extra 6 port 13b motors and a rebuild kit with the car deal so I can play with them.

So what would you guys do?

Bridge port it?

Carb it?

Headers?

Just do small tweeks?


The big thing here is I cannot buy any new parts. I have about $50 to play with. So think cheap.

Thanks in advance,
Dick

 

Fabricate some headers from anything you can find lying around, lighten it up, the usual crap. What exactly's being run under the hood currently? More pictures? Which race did/are you going to run next year? Have you sold any of the parts off of the car to allow more funds to be put back into it?

I acquired an '89 convertible for $100 earlier this year and have been stripping it down while building the engine. It was destined for SCCA road racing, but I don't have the budget to put it into E Production, and the convertible is not allowed into ITS. So now I think it may be headed for a LeMons race next year... Any tips from someone who's already ran an FC through one of these races and lived to tell the tale?

 

Start by taking the rear hatch glass out. That thing weighs alot. I can't tell if you've got a sunroof but if you do remove it. Remove the windows from the doors too if you haven't already. Hopefully your interior is about as spartan as it can get. I'd even take the whole dashboard out and just tie the instrument cluster to the steering column.

As far as porting goes, don't bridge it. Especially not with a stock ecu and intake manifold in place. Your goal is to go faster not slower. Just do a standard streetport. Don't overthink things or get visions of grandeur in this area. You won't get it. Pull the engine apart. Port it. Put it right back together using the same seals. Buy some new water orings from McMaster-Carr. They'll keep you under budget. They'll work fine for short term race cars. Sell a few things off of the car to get some money back.

You've got a ton of weight that you can pull off of the car. I'd focus on doing this along with any suspension mods you can get away with. At the speeds you are going to be running, this will do far more for you than just playing with the motor.

 

You can probably save a few pounds by swiss cheesing the hood bracing and bumpers with a hole saw as well as the doors. Swapping to carb will cost too much. A decent two barrel is a few hundred bucks unless you find a POS that needs a rebuild for $20. Then your looking at a manifold, carb appropriate fuel pump, regulator, etc etc.

 

Thanks for the advice. We are putting the little girl on a diet this winter. The top and windshield may go.

I have been told to make the auxiliary port always open to get some power.

I have also seen replacement inserts to help the flow through the auxiliry port. I could make these for nothing.

What kind of intake modes would be worth the time?



We raced at the fall south event. It was a great time. We will go to Putnam and Memphis next year for sure. We could make it back down to CMP too.

The things we did right.

Brakes You need lots of them. Get the best fluid you can afford. Hawk blues worked well for us.

Driver comfort A fan is very nice! water bladders are handy. MP3 player is a plus.

Things we needed more of.
Mirrors, get as many as you can fit on the car.
Power getting passed for hours on end sucks.


We spent an hour in the pits trying to fix a dead clutch petal.

Enjoy the pics



http://www.c4foto.com/Cars/24-Hours-...46579740_tNcec

http://www.c4foto.com/Other/24-HOURS...47724369_WbQQW

http://www.c4foto.com/Cars/24-hours-...48929509_Xcw8j

 

FAIL. No music while racing. When your motor or something else starts to act up you wont notice it...

 

oh i dunno, fangio had a radio...

 

I don't remember the guys name, but there's a pro drag racer with a full stereo in his car. Subs and all. Just because it's playing doesn't mean you can't hear the engine. Just don't crank it so loud that it drowns everything out.

 

I think the car you are referring to is Curian Racing with the red FB.

 

So that's what I'm doing wrong... I should install a stereo in my race car...



And there I was thinking that concentrating on driving was the go.

 

His name is Dom from Fast n the Furious hahaha jk

 

if your always at WOT wireing the aux ports or even removing them will benefit you a lil bit.. low end tourqe will suffer..but if your never in the low end than hell ya do it!!

 

Truthfully, from driving my mountain bikes back in the hay day and always wearing headphones on, I've learned to feel things alot better. Take them off and use that same sense is pretty magical sometimes

 

Best thing for the car is weight reduction. I had a 1991 rx7 drag car with 12 inch slicks stock rear 22 gallon fuel cell a muncie m22 and a 490 pound small block chevy in the car and it still weighed only a hair over 1400 pounds. the dash is unbelievably heavy and so is the hatch. The windows gone and the sunroof gone saves alot as well. swiss cheesing what you can helps a lot. Hell dodge swiss cheesed the frames of there cars in the 60s for the nhra series. Whether its drag racing or any other form of racing weight reduction is huge and these cars can weigh next to nothing.

 

^^^ while I agree with everything you said about weight reduction, I find it hard to believe you got an FC down to 1400 or so pounds! My car is stripped of interior and every bracket, fiberglass for everything but the doors, door bars removed, no door glass, lexan windshield, lexan/fiberglass hatch, no alternator, no brake booster, basically nothing that doesn't make it go, turn or stop. It weighs in at 1970 dry. Now I figure it could lose 30 with a simpler cage and another 30-40 with a simpler cooling system if it was a drag car but where did you find the other 500?? Is there a big lump of lead that I missed?

 

I really think he meant 2400lb, unless he's doing a tube chassis?