dudes, sounds like not so great falls right about now for you guys..

 

It hasn't been a great couple months for any of us, is what it sounds like. We all just need to get our cars running and meet up somewhere and hang out.


Update on my car: Thank God, I installed a fuel cut-off switch so no one can steal it. The exhaust shop and I made an agreement. I don't have to pay for the exhaust work, if I fix the dammage. There's about 3 hours of my own work I'll have to do, but in the end, it'll only cost me like $30. Time for tint
The idiot that tried to steal my car started a small electrical fire making it so I'll have to re-wire the fuel cut off switch and one other thing. Other than that, the car was un-touched.

 

wow bd, that's a good trade for you!! how much was the exhuast gonna be? mine was $410 from the manifold back, all new..

 

and update on my project.. i only need like.. i think about $800 to finish getting it running.. i'd like to front mount it, the front bumper cover is already cut for it.

i still need...
all the stock turbo air plumbing, the s5 t2 MAF, finish wiring in the harness, remove the flex plate from my jdm motor, install the flywheel clutch set, stick the tranny/motor, i think the oil feed and return lines for the turb, coolant lines, some dash parts, figure out what i still need to make the s5 n/a dash work, hook up the prometer gauges, hook up the turbo timer, then get my exhaust on that done. i think i'm going to use the addjustable suspension from the n/a on the turb.

i think that's all i got......

 

Good deal. My exhaust ended up being around $140 from the exhaust shop. I am not even going to get into what all the components for the exhaust cost.
I only went from the presilencer back to the muffler. So far its running great I have had no problems. Other then keeping my foot out of it.

 

I have an AFM meter if you want it.

You don't need anything to make the N/A Dash work.




Oh and I stuck my gauges to the dash today. Haha.

 

is there a difference 'tween the turb and n/a afm? i can't remember....... if i do need that afm, how much?

 

I beleive you can just use your AFM from the s5 N/A If not I will give you this one for $10 bucks.

 

That's a lot of work. Hope it goes by quickly





The work was gonna cost me around $120. But because of them not locking my car, it just gives me some more $ for other mods

 

well it seems there's a LOT more 7 owners in montana than wyoming =P i'm gonna have to keep up on this thread and maybe come up if there are any meets..

 

Yodle Neighbor sounds good.

 

yeah man come here ... then i wont be the only na runnin

 

hood fender and bumper

 

i was n/a... til i tried to run with the turbs here.... then go ka-bleweee

 

its all in the corners my friend

 

im thinking of making a trip home in late to mid august. i have not been home in a few years so i was just wondering if there is much of a car scene in great falls these days. maybe we can have a get together or some thing.

 

Hey guys,

I have one thing to say and that would be : Painting a new house blows d*ck....

That is what I ahve been doing the last couple days.

GOOD news is I got my new iron in and it is VERY beefy around the dowl casting. I also ordered 3 new side seals after a whole break in dilema. I got a whole mix of info on break in time for side seals. Some "shops" were saying 1500 miles and others were saying 100 miles. I eventually ended up talking to Kevin Landers who owns Rotary Ressurection and he informed me that on 4 80K+ motors he has pulled apart that the side seal weAR FROM STOCK DIMENSIONS WAS ONLY........ .005 less then brand new seals. WOW!

He also informed me that during a rebuild that requires new coolant seals or oil control rings that he will always mix and match side seals from a pile he has laying around and has never had issues with full boost right after the build.

Basically break in on a new build is generally for the bearings and apex seals. The side seals in conjunction with the iron are always a true flat surface (unless horrible lapping was performed) and break in is almost non existant.

WHAT i plan on doing after the replacement of my rear iron I am gonna drive it to Helena and back. I will allow the engine to heatcycle a couple of times and then BACK TO BOOST baby!

 

Ooooh be careful. I hear ya on the painting I do a lot of it for a living. Let me know when you drive to Helena I will drive with ya. Let me know if you want help with rear iron removal. So no pinching happens.

 

Yes we have our very own 7 scene in Great Falls couple fd's, bunch o fc's, and a few fbs, rx3's. Give us some advance notice on your arrival and we can do BBQ meet up or something.



Speaking of wich who is down to meet up tomorrow? Cruise? something? Kyle BBQin?

 

ey sean. found this thread, thought ya might find it interesting since ya busted yer rear housing https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/12-7-mm-stud-kit-review-dowl-pinning-767269/

 

still dont know whats going on with that but im sure we will end up doin somethin. ... .sean if you need help at all with movin or all that annoying work that comes with it let me know.

 

sweet sounds like fun. as soon as i have the info ill let yall know. it all depends on the navy giving me leave. LOL

 

I like turtles

 

turtles are cool.. kinda like wii.. and hornsbys

 

Thanks man. Sad thing is studs will still not keep you from breaking a rear iron. There is a thread floating around with some major reverse engineering going on in regards to the rear casting molding. TORQUE is the enemy (which is hillarious since torque is almost non-existant in rotaries ha ha). Torque in conjunction with the design AND torsional force/movement of the rotors causes that specific spot to be the pressure point. Bigger dowels will stay strong BUT them the surrounding material will weaken.

This problem is a big bitch for anyone putting power down. It is almost inevitable.