Hey Iowa II
01-26-09, 05:57 PM
#976
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http://www.e85fuel.com/news/092402fyi.htm
turns out hi concentrated E85 no likey aluminum.... but if its combusting immediateley i don't know if id consider it constant contact. Id definatley avoid an alum fuel rail or aluminum fittings. Mabye somone should tell Casey lol
01-26-09, 07:00 PM
#977
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http://www.e85fuel.com/news/092402fyi.htm
turns out hi concentrated E85 no likey aluminum.... but if its combusting immediateley i don't know if id consider it constant contact. Id definatley avoid an alum fuel rail or aluminum fittings. Mabye somone should tell Casey lol
turns out hi concentrated E85 no likey aluminum.... but if its combusting immediateley i don't know if id consider it constant contact. Id definatley avoid an alum fuel rail or aluminum fittings. Mabye somone should tell Casey lol
almost all factory stuff is not aluminum but steel. Aluminum is expensive......
01-26-09, 07:35 PM
#978
Rotary Enthusiast
from what i have been told, i need a seperate fuel managment. from what i read i saw some guy put 2 parallel pumps for his e85 system. im guessing this is why a seperate system needed. idk i could be wrong but all i know is that.. im gonna keep doing more research until i figure it out.
oh and power reliability, wouldnt dowel pinning help make it a little more reliable? i do plan to hit high hp numbers when im in the track, so i need to look over alot of things.
oh and power reliability, wouldnt dowel pinning help make it a little more reliable? i do plan to hit high hp numbers when im in the track, so i need to look over alot of things.
01-26-09, 07:48 PM
#979
No rotary, no problems?
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The only problem with dowel pinning if it's it's not done perfectly, you'll have more issues than when you started with. It's kinda the same concept as the guys that use block guards in their piston engines. If they're not installed perfectly, they will send the cylinders out of round.
Also, are you going to drive this car in the winter at all? If so, make sure that you tune the car for E85 summer blend and have it also tuned for winter blend. There's quite a bit of difference between the two blends, and if you're running the timing pretty far advanced on summer blend and try to use it with winter blend you'll end up with detonation. It's not the HP you put out that destroys things, it's the detonation from an improper tune. That's why you see guys making 500+ HP on stock sleeve and stock block Honda motors. As long as it's tuned correctly with very minimal detonation, there's no damage being done to the cylinders. As soon as you start getting detonation, you start causing excess pressure inside the combustion chamber as well as throwing the motor off balance.
Also, are you going to drive this car in the winter at all? If so, make sure that you tune the car for E85 summer blend and have it also tuned for winter blend. There's quite a bit of difference between the two blends, and if you're running the timing pretty far advanced on summer blend and try to use it with winter blend you'll end up with detonation. It's not the HP you put out that destroys things, it's the detonation from an improper tune. That's why you see guys making 500+ HP on stock sleeve and stock block Honda motors. As long as it's tuned correctly with very minimal detonation, there's no damage being done to the cylinders. As soon as you start getting detonation, you start causing excess pressure inside the combustion chamber as well as throwing the motor off balance.
01-27-09, 12:14 AM
#981
Rotary Enthusiast
Thats why im looking for reliable places, not just gonna go send it in to some random guy that claims he can do it and cheap. Don't want to ruin my engine cause of some jackass. Also don't plan to drive it in the winter at all. Prob just start it up and what not, but i wont be using e85 then. Ill have separate tunes, e85, 93, race gas. I plan to do a few road trips so can't use e85 tune all the time.
And like you said, it isn't the hp, but the torque too. Even with the best tune, metal can crack/deform.. Also high hp means harder to fine tune, which cause's failures. So indeed the power can be the cause.
Oh well, i just want about 350whp on street, and occasionally above 450 on the track. Anything above that will be for bragging rights.
And like you said, it isn't the hp, but the torque too. Even with the best tune, metal can crack/deform.. Also high hp means harder to fine tune, which cause's failures. So indeed the power can be the cause.
Oh well, i just want about 350whp on street, and occasionally above 450 on the track. Anything above that will be for bragging rights.The only problem with dowel pinning if it's it's not done perfectly, you'll have more issues than when you started with. It's kinda the same concept as the guys that use block guards in their piston engines. If they're not installed perfectly, they will send the cylinders out of round.
Also, are you going to drive this car in the winter at all? If so, make sure that you tune the car for E85 summer blend and have it also tuned for winter blend. There's quite a bit of difference between the two blends, and if you're running the timing pretty far advanced on summer blend and try to use it with winter blend you'll end up with detonation. It's not the HP you put out that destroys things, it's the detonation from an improper tune. That's why you see guys making 500+ HP on stock sleeve and stock block Honda motors. As long as it's tuned correctly with very minimal detonation, there's no damage being done to the cylinders. As soon as you start getting detonation, you start causing excess pressure inside the combustion chamber as well as throwing the motor off balance.
Also, are you going to drive this car in the winter at all? If so, make sure that you tune the car for E85 summer blend and have it also tuned for winter blend. There's quite a bit of difference between the two blends, and if you're running the timing pretty far advanced on summer blend and try to use it with winter blend you'll end up with detonation. It's not the HP you put out that destroys things, it's the detonation from an improper tune. That's why you see guys making 500+ HP on stock sleeve and stock block Honda motors. As long as it's tuned correctly with very minimal detonation, there's no damage being done to the cylinders. As soon as you start getting detonation, you start causing excess pressure inside the combustion chamber as well as throwing the motor off balance.
01-27-09, 01:00 AM
#982
Rotary Enthusiast
from what i have been told, i need a seperate fuel managment. from what i read i saw some guy put 2 parallel pumps for his e85 system. im guessing this is why a seperate system needed. idk i could be wrong but all i know is that.. im gonna keep doing more research until i figure it out.
oh and power reliability, wouldnt dowel pinning help make it a little more reliable? i do plan to hit high hp numbers when im in the track, so i need to look over alot of things.
oh and power reliability, wouldnt dowel pinning help make it a little more reliable? i do plan to hit high hp numbers when im in the track, so i need to look over alot of things.
discard this post for the most part.
01-27-09, 09:06 AM
#983
Tenseiga
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Thats why im looking for reliable places, not just gonna go send it in to some random guy that claims he can do it and cheap. Don't want to ruin my engine cause of some jackass. Also don't plan to drive it in the winter at all. Prob just start it up and what not, but i wont be using e85 then. Ill have separate tunes, e85, 93, race gas. I plan to do a few road trips so can't use e85 tune all the time.
And like you said, it isn't the hp, but the torque too. Even with the best tune, metal can crack/deform.. Also high hp means harder to fine tune, which cause's failures. So indeed the power can be the cause. Oh well, i just want about 350whp on street, and occasionally above 450 on the track. Anything above that will be for bragging rights.
And like you said, it isn't the hp, but the torque too. Even with the best tune, metal can crack/deform.. Also high hp means harder to fine tune, which cause's failures. So indeed the power can be the cause.
Oh well, i just want about 350whp on street, and occasionally above 450 on the track. Anything above that will be for bragging rights.350rwhp and 450rwhp shouldn't be cracking/break'n anything.... except maybe your tranny/rearend (depending on how weak the rx8's are)
The higher the hp doesn't relate to harder to tune (I assume you mean driveability/idle).
It's harder to tune b/c of the primary injector size.
I wouldn't upsize the primaries too much but since your running e85 you might need to add a set of injectors like 1600cc for the added flow. Increasing your secondries might not be enough.
01-27-09, 11:26 AM
#985
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an aluminum rails or fittings will have fuel contacting it just as much as a storage tank at the gas station... theres some in the lines 24/7 so it would only be an issue over time.
01-27-09, 01:59 PM
#986
Rotary Enthusiast
With the turbo your runing those numbers seem a bit more realistic.
350rwhp and 450rwhp shouldn't be cracking/break'n anything.... except maybe your tranny/rearend (depending on how weak the rx8's are)
The higher the hp doesn't relate to harder to tune (I assume you mean driveability/idle).
It's harder to tune b/c of the primary injector size.
I wouldn't upsize the primaries too much but since your running e85 you might need to add a set of injectors like 1600cc for the added flow. Increasing your secondries might not be enough.
350rwhp and 450rwhp shouldn't be cracking/break'n anything.... except maybe your tranny/rearend (depending on how weak the rx8's are)
The higher the hp doesn't relate to harder to tune (I assume you mean driveability/idle).
It's harder to tune b/c of the primary injector size.
I wouldn't upsize the primaries too much but since your running e85 you might need to add a set of injectors like 1600cc for the added flow. Increasing your secondries might not be enough.
01-27-09, 02:01 PM
#987
Rotary Enthusiast
I found a site that has steel braided lines made for e85, along with the fittings. The only thing that im worried about is the rails, maybe a think anno would help.
01-27-09, 08:25 PM
#989
Tenseiga
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All SS braded lines are going to be e85 safe if they are meant for fuel.... they have a rubber inside and not metal....
I just think you'll be paying alot for something you'll get no benifit from.
01-28-09, 12:29 AM
#992
Rotary Enthusiast
I would first check to see what is alum... i highly doubt your lines or rails are alum....
All SS braded lines are going to be e85 safe if they are meant for fuel.... they have a rubber inside and not metal....
I just think you'll be paying alot for something you'll get no benifit from.
All SS braded lines are going to be e85 safe if they are meant for fuel.... they have a rubber inside and not metal....
I just think you'll be paying alot for something you'll get no benifit from.
Will see how it goes, i have about a month to get it ready so its still up in air.
01-31-09, 02:24 AM
#996
everything will be okay
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i know dude, but ill have to show you in person. its a two step process, and the first stage is done, so you can see it now, or wait till the second stage is done. its up to you. i have sunday off, so we could get together for a bit if you want, or you can wait, probaly 3-4 weeks, until its completely finished. oh, and just to let you know.... its so much fun to **** with you about stuff like this. just letting you know.
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