any one from MN?
07-29-08, 11:54 AM
#101
well, in the past post, i was trying to say was how am i suppose to take off the front cover without damaging the engine. and i meant this:
seems that oil is leaking from behind this... i have yet to know though. thanks guys!
seems that oil is leaking from behind this... i have yet to know though. thanks guys!
07-31-08, 09:54 AM
#102
Mad Scientist
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: hutchinson, MN
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Hi again Dewey,
first thing i recommend is reading this before you do anything.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm
I didn't but my engine is on a stand right now so it was a fairly easy fix. I assume your engine is still in the vehicle.
also read this if your engine is a second gen.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm
this actually isnt a real difficult fix but it can be a pain working in a crowded engine compartment.
ill Give you the information I have and hopefully not forget anything.
first the parts you will need. its good to have the parts before you start
Front cover gasket (I just use ultra black due to the O-Ring issue. see link above)
Front cover "O"ring
Oil pan gasket
Water pump housing to engine gasket
Coolant
Oil
Oil Filter
Front seal
You are probably thinking "I bet I can do it without removing the oil pan!" You might be able to do it however I dont feel its worth the risk of having to do the job twice. I just replace the pan gasket since it will get wrecked when you pull the cover.
ok, I may not do this in the same order everyone else does but here goes.
Ill list the major steps and you can figure out the small stuff as ya go for example I will say yank the water pump.. you probably know ya need to drain some coolant or you'll get wet. and if you forget one of these little steps, Take pictures. I love to see the pains of the learning experiance.
step 1
remove Oil pan (must remove motor mount) <--- gave ya a freebe
step 2
remove fan stuff from front pulley if so equipped (4 nuts. easy money)
step 3
now... if the vehicle is 93-95 your gonna need to push the flywheel forward (towards the engine) you can do this through the inspection cover in the bell housing. if its not in those years you can just wedge the clutch peddle down with a piece of wood or as I like to use, a really big pry bar.
step 4
remove the front pulley we haven't pulled the water pump yet because this part is easier with the belt on. there will be a big nut in the middle, when you take this off there is a dohicky and spring inside. this is the... thermal bypass pellet.. I think thats what its called. this is a good time to replace it, space it, or get the nifty replacement that eliminates it. While doing this on the 93 -95 models make sure the wood doesn't fall out, try not to rotate the engine if you can help it.
step 5
remove the water pump housing, label the bolt locations if they are different sizes
step 6
remove the crank position sensor COVER. now mark the position (I use a soap stone) in 2 places in such a way that the lines only line up in one possible orientation. I.E. not straight across from each other. make the marks on the toothed wheel and something that doesnt spin. the little black boxes in there work nicely.
step 7
now that the position sensor is clearly marked so you can get it back to the right spot mark the position of the sensor tube (where it meets the front cover) this will assure your timing doesn't get screwed up.
step 8
remove the crank angle sensor. Do NOT rotate the eccentric shaft at all with the CAS removed.
step 9
now that the front of the motor is nekid... unless I forgot something, remove the front cover bolts there are different sizes so mark them. Pop off the front cover. I know it might be kinda stuck but it comes off without too much trouble.
If the board came off the clutch peddle, or flywheel depending on year, or if for any reason you think one of the front bearings slipped down this is the time to put it back. (see first faq above) and I do realize I put a lot of emphasis on a problem that could be easily fixed with the cover off but now you wont forget about your torrington bearings
for reassembly reverse the process using new gaskets and/or ultra black sealant.
also since the cover is off you might as well replace that old front seal. and change your oil. its already drained. hope your not wearing any of it.
its also a good Idea to double check your timing since the CAS was removed but if you were careful and got it back to the same spot this may not be mandatory.
Hope I didnt forget anything.
If you are anywhere near hutchinson I could probably help ya out if ya need me to.
first thing i recommend is reading this before you do anything.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm
I didn't but my engine is on a stand right now so it was a fairly easy fix. I assume your engine is still in the vehicle.
also read this if your engine is a second gen.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm
this actually isnt a real difficult fix but it can be a pain working in a crowded engine compartment.
ill Give you the information I have and hopefully not forget anything.
first the parts you will need. its good to have the parts before you start
Front cover gasket (I just use ultra black due to the O-Ring issue. see link above)
Front cover "O"ring
Oil pan gasket
Water pump housing to engine gasket
Coolant
Oil
Oil Filter
Front seal
You are probably thinking "I bet I can do it without removing the oil pan!" You might be able to do it however I dont feel its worth the risk of having to do the job twice. I just replace the pan gasket since it will get wrecked when you pull the cover.
ok, I may not do this in the same order everyone else does but here goes.
Ill list the major steps and you can figure out the small stuff as ya go for example I will say yank the water pump.. you probably know ya need to drain some coolant or you'll get wet. and if you forget one of these little steps, Take pictures. I love to see the pains of the learning experiance.
step 1
remove Oil pan (must remove motor mount) <--- gave ya a freebe
step 2
remove fan stuff from front pulley if so equipped (4 nuts. easy money)
step 3
now... if the vehicle is 93-95 your gonna need to push the flywheel forward (towards the engine) you can do this through the inspection cover in the bell housing. if its not in those years you can just wedge the clutch peddle down with a piece of wood or as I like to use, a really big pry bar.
step 4
remove the front pulley we haven't pulled the water pump yet because this part is easier with the belt on. there will be a big nut in the middle, when you take this off there is a dohicky and spring inside. this is the... thermal bypass pellet.. I think thats what its called. this is a good time to replace it, space it, or get the nifty replacement that eliminates it. While doing this on the 93 -95 models make sure the wood doesn't fall out, try not to rotate the engine if you can help it.
step 5
remove the water pump housing, label the bolt locations if they are different sizes
step 6
remove the crank position sensor COVER. now mark the position (I use a soap stone) in 2 places in such a way that the lines only line up in one possible orientation. I.E. not straight across from each other. make the marks on the toothed wheel and something that doesnt spin. the little black boxes in there work nicely.
step 7
now that the position sensor is clearly marked so you can get it back to the right spot mark the position of the sensor tube (where it meets the front cover) this will assure your timing doesn't get screwed up.
step 8
remove the crank angle sensor. Do NOT rotate the eccentric shaft at all with the CAS removed.
step 9
now that the front of the motor is nekid... unless I forgot something, remove the front cover bolts there are different sizes so mark them. Pop off the front cover. I know it might be kinda stuck but it comes off without too much trouble.
If the board came off the clutch peddle, or flywheel depending on year, or if for any reason you think one of the front bearings slipped down this is the time to put it back. (see first faq above) and I do realize I put a lot of emphasis on a problem that could be easily fixed with the cover off but now you wont forget about your torrington bearings
for reassembly reverse the process using new gaskets and/or ultra black sealant.
also since the cover is off you might as well replace that old front seal. and change your oil. its already drained. hope your not wearing any of it.
its also a good Idea to double check your timing since the CAS was removed but if you were careful and got it back to the same spot this may not be mandatory.
Hope I didnt forget anything.
If you are anywhere near hutchinson I could probably help ya out if ya need me to.
08-01-08, 01:43 PM
#103
wow! that's a lot to say and do... now i'm going to recap a few things... like a new water pump or not because its leaking a little under the alternator... i already bought a new water pump gasket and front cover gaset... now i just need to do this...
i was planning to go to the junk yard and do it on that one, since i dont want to kill my engine.
also, if the timing does go off... what can i do to fix the timing?
i was planning to go to the junk yard and do it on that one, since i dont want to kill my engine.
also, if the timing does go off... what can i do to fix the timing?
08-01-08, 03:35 PM
#104
oh, and i wouldnt mind the help... except you live like an hour and so away... gosh it would be great to have the oil leak fixed... lol saves me money on oil and having a lubed bottom.
08-02-08, 02:22 AM
#107
thanks guys, i'm sure to use the silicone stuff too as i'm sure these rubber like gasket i just ordered dont really seem like they can do much but melt right on... lol
what are the suggested ones, silicone paste? i've been at o'reillys a lot thinking about which one to get. i already bought the blue one that's for making the water gasket, didnt know if it would work on the front cover too. but i did use it to seal the fuel pump like what Aaron Cake did in his almost complete guide to turbocharging a NA. works like a charm!
what are the suggested ones, silicone paste? i've been at o'reillys a lot thinking about which one to get. i already bought the blue one that's for making the water gasket, didnt know if it would work on the front cover too. but i did use it to seal the fuel pump like what Aaron Cake did in his almost complete guide to turbocharging a NA. works like a charm!
08-02-08, 11:02 AM
#108
I would use permatex ultra grey or all gasket. If you do use the silicone on the front cover sand down the cross over oring a little to make up for thickness of the gasket or it won't seal correctly. I may have a new one that doesn't need sanding bit I will need to find it.
08-12-08, 12:46 PM
#111
those are nice as hell, i've seen teh red and the blue one... but i heard about the green one and saw other ones too. another blue one and a white one. other than that, i'm cruising FC.
08-17-08, 06:19 PM
#117
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Fargo, doncha know
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I tuned with the green widebody and the blue one when steve kan came to town. And I just saw the blue one again this weekend here in Fargo, ND. He showed his car at the Perfect 10 show at the Fargo dome. I wish I was in the cities more often to cruise with you all.
08-26-08, 08:42 PM
#118
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: SE MN
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I'm in Winona. I have an '81 RX7 SCCA ITA race car, an '84 GSL-SE, and an '86 GXL NA.
My daughter hit a bear this summer with the GXL so it is getting some different sheet metal and a front bumper right now.
My daughter hit a bear this summer with the GXL so it is getting some different sheet metal and a front bumper right now.
09-11-08, 10:15 AM
#124
here's one:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/cto/814314335.html (dont know of availability)
another one:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/cto/796911457.html (dont know of availability)
if not on the forums, try like craigslist or autotraders and so on.
