Hi there!

I recently sold my LT8 that was in my second gen TII to a guy that's putting a S4 TII engine in a first gen.

The guy took everything that's connected to the ECU from a second gen. ( coils and everything )

Here's the unit history : I bought it on this forum from a forum member that said it was fonctionnal, but I wasnt able to get the fuel pump to run. Having done the wiring harness with an electrician, this was suspicious. so I sent the unit a shop that specialises in printed cardboard and cybernetics. Turned out to be a fried transistor and 2 melted prints. The shop repaired it and I got the car to run and got it tuned by Steve Kan.

Ran great for a summer, but then I messed with a sensor (TPS) and the car began to act like ****. I was able to start it but I never held his idle. I had to keep the foot on the gas pedal.

Considering that the car starts, the unit must not be fried...

So here comes the main part of the story : The guy plug the premade harness on the engine and wires the ignition wire (grey ones) straight to the 2nd gen coils.

Everything is allright, fuel pump turns on, injectors click, C.A.S. triggers goes to the unit,

BUT he says he gets no fire. He claims he gets no ignition trigger on the grey wires.

How could this be possible if the EXACT SAME unit and harness started my engine every week?

Could it be related to the grounding of the coils? if so, how should he ground 2nd gen coils in a first gen?

He told me he grounded the black wire from the harness onto the body, while I grounded it on the battery. Can it affect something?

please enlight me on this one. The buyer is confused and we both want his car to run.

thanks a lot.

Louis-Philippe from Canada

 

Black wire?
Which black wire? no black wire on the T!! ignitors should be grounded.

The coilpacks ground from were they are bolted up to.

If your are not getting spark their are only a few things that could cause it.

First thing to start with IS.

Check that you have an orange light flashing on crank then will go from their.

 

Yes he has the yellow light flashing on the unit, which means the CAS sends the trigger.

But he says he has no output on the grey wires

thanks

l-p

 

When he put the computer in the gen1, did he wire up 12v ignition to the relevant wires on the T11 ignitors? cause harness you gave him would only give the trigger signal, but they need to be supplied 12v+ as well.

On the leading ignitor/coil pack their is one tan wire(ignitor side) that needs 12v+ and on the trailing ignitor/coil pack their are two tan wires that need 12v+ if this is all correct then id say, dont shoot me if i am wrong but id say the unit has somehow been damaged.

 

He says he has 12V on the coils

Dont worry, i'm not gonna shot anybody

But How the hell did he succeed to damage the unit considering that in my car the unit was functionnal and the harness was already made by me?

 

Ive never actually seen them get wrecked, so how they get wrecked i dont know.

their is only one grey wire on the ignitor loom(ignitor side) and that dosnt get 12v.

TAN WIRES are the ones that need 12v.

 

uhhhhhhhhh I dont get it...

on the LT8, there are 3 grey wires, two go to the trailing and one to the leading coil
or something like that

I'll ask the buyer if he did put 12V on the tan wires, but I'm pretty sure he did...

 

If he blew the unit, is it expensive to fix???

 

Generally they are not. Its more the cost of shipping it down to AUS.
the grey wires from the microtech, thats correct their is 3, two go to trailing and 1 go to leading.

Id be telling him, look ill send it down but if nothing turns out to be wrong with it your paying for expenses.

 

Considering that I was able to start my car every week or so, I dont know why would I pay to get it fixed in first place...

He did not ground the wiring to the battery... just to the body and my father (an electrician) told me that older cars' body isn't a good place to ground such a sensitive electronic device.

Anyway I'll probably end up telling him to send the unit and give him a percentage of the repair's costs just because I dont wanna hear him whine...

Got a clue on a cost? just to give him an idea?

thanks
l-p

 

Is there a setting inside the program that might cut the ingnition???

I heard about a check fire option or something

 

I couldnt see it being that expensive. $150-200 AUS max.


Too my knowledgy their is not but i maybe incorrect on this one.