Microtech Proper way to zero timing
#26
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Originally posted by H2o
how does T1 represent 5 ATDC? it does not represent 5 ATDC for T1... why do you spit out this crap to people?
how does T1 represent 5 ATDC? it does not represent 5 ATDC for T1... why do you spit out this crap to people?
Originally posted by A-Spec Tuning
Ok, guys im done with this thread... i came in to tell how to properly zero out timing and gave our opinion.. it seems like people who dont understand timing or probably never rebuilt a rotary motor think they know better.. as i have said and "RXENG" seem to agree ... marking the pulley at zero is the best bet... this is how we set base timing if you want to set it different thats your perogative!
good luck
Ok, guys im done with this thread... i came in to tell how to properly zero out timing and gave our opinion.. it seems like people who dont understand timing or probably never rebuilt a rotary motor think they know better.. as i have said and "RXENG" seem to agree ... marking the pulley at zero is the best bet... this is how we set base timing if you want to set it different thats your perogative!
good luck
Brandon
BR7 Racing
#27
Here's what I'm hearing from both sides.
If set the way Microtech describes in the manual, the timing is set correctly, and is the most simple way to set the timing. However for those who like having everything set to zero and read the same then remarking the pulley is the way to go.
Does that sound right?
If set the way Microtech describes in the manual, the timing is set correctly, and is the most simple way to set the timing. However for those who like having everything set to zero and read the same then remarking the pulley is the way to go.
Does that sound right?
#28
Originally posted by rx7_turbo2
Here's what I'm hearing from both sides.
If set the way Microtech describes in the manual, the timing is set correctly, and is the most simple way to set the timing. However for those who like having everything set to zero and read the same then remarking the pulley is the way to go.
Does that sound right?
Here's what I'm hearing from both sides.
If set the way Microtech describes in the manual, the timing is set correctly, and is the most simple way to set the timing. However for those who like having everything set to zero and read the same then remarking the pulley is the way to go.
Does that sound right?
#29
Originally posted by No7Yet
I do appreciate the input, however, and feel that any honest discussion is valuable.
Brandon
BR7 Racing
I do appreciate the input, however, and feel that any honest discussion is valuable.
Brandon
BR7 Racing
#30
I agree
While it is more difficult for people to remark the pulley I think it is ultimately the right way to do it. Now with that said no7yet does have a point, and if someone can verify what the static timing is on the factory base map, then it would be a little more concrete.
While it is more difficult for people to remark the pulley I think it is ultimately the right way to do it. Now with that said no7yet does have a point, and if someone can verify what the static timing is on the factory base map, then it would be a little more concrete.
#31
Ok here's the deal.........................
The static timing on a 13BT base map is usually set at zero.If you lock the timing & set it to the first mark (yellow) the timing will be zero'd at 5 deg atdc.This is done like this by Microtech so everyone will set their base timing 5 deg retarded & hopefully not have a blown up engine due to too much ignition advance.Think of it as a 5 degree safety margin from the factory.
As all of you know by now this isn't a true zero mark which is why I prefer to re mark the pulley with a true zero mark & lock it there.However,you need to be on the ball with your tuning & know EXACTLY what you are doing.
To end up with the same result using the static option,lock the timing & adjust the crank angle sensor so the yellow mark is lined up with the pointer,then put +5deg in static.The ecu will then add 5 deg overall in all your timing values.So as you know,the timing was locked at 5 deg atdc but with the 5 deg static value it is now at TDC,and all the timing values in all the screens will be correct.
After reading this most of you guys will be scratching your head trying to follow what the hell I'm talking about......................
This is why I re mark the pulley & lock the timing at true zero & have nothing in static.
Saves a shitload of confusion!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jon
The static timing on a 13BT base map is usually set at zero.If you lock the timing & set it to the first mark (yellow) the timing will be zero'd at 5 deg atdc.This is done like this by Microtech so everyone will set their base timing 5 deg retarded & hopefully not have a blown up engine due to too much ignition advance.Think of it as a 5 degree safety margin from the factory.
As all of you know by now this isn't a true zero mark which is why I prefer to re mark the pulley with a true zero mark & lock it there.However,you need to be on the ball with your tuning & know EXACTLY what you are doing.
To end up with the same result using the static option,lock the timing & adjust the crank angle sensor so the yellow mark is lined up with the pointer,then put +5deg in static.The ecu will then add 5 deg overall in all your timing values.So as you know,the timing was locked at 5 deg atdc but with the 5 deg static value it is now at TDC,and all the timing values in all the screens will be correct.
After reading this most of you guys will be scratching your head trying to follow what the hell I'm talking about......................
This is why I re mark the pulley & lock the timing at true zero & have nothing in static.
Saves a shitload of confusion!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jon
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