Just wanted to give some hope for people with microtech that might not have a good idle.

I was having problems with the idle....it idled @ 1100rpms....which I didn't like....

First I found little vac leaks...thats the first thing to check for. Playing with the idle or load maps didn't seem to affect idle rpm, just how smooth the idle was...

What finally dropped my idle was tunning down the water temp map. Depending on what temp your car normally runs at, the stock map has the fuel turned up quite a bit... I turned it down accross the board, and now I can turn my car on in the morning in 45 degree weather and by turning the water temp map down, it idles perfect at 820rpm even when its warming up. No flucuation at all.

Its probably different for everybody, but It at least proves that the microtech can hold a perfect idle. I've heard a lot of people comment that the microtech couldn't be tuned very well for drivability.....

 

i generally use the hard idle screw on the throttle body,
my idle is at 1200 due to large ports and massive primary injectors, it will idle at 800 its just not as happy as it is at 1000-1200,

 

I have 850 Primaries, but will try what is stated above to see if it works. My idle is a low 1000, cant get it lower. However I only have 300Km's on the engine.

 

What did you change it to? i have this same problem, runs bad cold...ive been meaning to mess with the water temp map, but never got around to it. wanna post ur numbers?

pat

 

you mean my numbers?

Let me know, no problem for me.

 

Is your BAC Valve enabled?

 

Um, this method is not recommended to get your idle to go down.
Basically, the engine was idling at it's happiest AFR, but now that you're adjusting the AFR outside of it's most efficient point, of course the idle will go down.

Ideally, you want to use the throttle stop screw to see if this will work for you, as 10sec rx7 has already mentioned.

If not, you still might have an intake leak.


-Ted

 

This probably should go without saying but, be sure to recalibrate your TPS after adjusting the idle screw

 

An intake leak would make the idle higher. You can tune the vacume leak into the map if you can't find it. Being as there is no AFM, you basicaly have to fight with air density and temp. when you have running issues on differnet days. Typically if it is rough it is too rich. I have a perfect 1K idle, no burping at all.

 

I finally got my car running but I'm having idling issues as well, only mine is idling at 2800 rpm. I found that idle screw on the throttle body (I think) but it doesn't do anything. The throttle cable is adjusted right as it is slightly slack so I know the throttle plate is closed. I tried looking for vacuum leaks as well but I can't seem to find any. I tried changing the MixTrim from -15% to -10 then to 0 and that didn't change the idle. My TPS is at 0%, according to the LTX8 so I'm stupified. Please guys what can I check. I'd appreciate your advice.

 

Oh, I forgot to tell you guys that I have a stock S5 turbo 2 motor and just installed the LTX8 that came with the base map.

 

I have idle problems, but my problem isn't that its high when its cold, its low low low and my motor just gurgles right around like 700. Once it warms up though it purrs right around 1080, which is fine to me. But if you're reading your RPM's off of your tacho, it may be off. I just got done installing my LTX12 and the laptop reads that i'll be idleing at 1080 but the tacho says like 1400. And it is consistently high the whole time.

Does anyone know if there is anyway to calibrate your tachometer?

 

I'll check again for intake leaks because a couple weeks ago it idled fine, around 900rpm. Only thing that I did different was to add the large vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the brake booster. Oh, I did have to remove one of the intake pipe (that goes to TB) when I changed out the clutch slave but I reinstalled the pipe and clamps properly.

 

The instrument cluster can be disassembled, and an adjustment screw will be revealed.


-Ted

 

Ah! thank you RETed!! That will help temendously because i think it was off before when i had my LT8 and if it was....that would mean i was shifting right around 7....when i coulda been shifting around 8....anyway i'm rambling with nothing of importance!

So thank you for that info and i will get right on that!