Microtech Michro Tech LT 10 x4
#1
Michro Tech LT 10 x4
Guys I have an FB 12a ported bridge pin etc, it has it. Strong 12a with a 76mm turbo. This is the issue I'm having. If I tried to start the car in the morning been outside, there is not a way to get this car started. I mean I have tried everything possible. New alternator and battery. But, if I leave it alone and go to work and come back in the afternoon it fire right up when you show the key to it. I don't know what is causing this. Is it a cold start tuning issue? Not enough fuel, it has 4 1600 injectors. Now if I get it started in the afternoon and parked it in my garage were the temperature ranges around 83*f, the car tries to fire the first time but I keep trying and it fires right up. I don't get it, what's going on here. There is spark at all times. Coils are Bosch. Any help I will appreciate it.
Edgar
Edgar
Last edited by wickdgt; 09-13-16 at 01:49 PM.
#4
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Check the base map thread at the top of this section and see if your screen 20 and 22 are similar or adjust mixtrim in 5% increments and see if it starts at the prob temp.
Take note of your current settings so you can reenter if you need to.
Take note of your current settings so you can reenter if you need to.
#5
Engine, Not Motor
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Mixtrim remember is only for troubleshooting. It effects the entire curve.
In the morning before you leave for work, plug in your handset/laptop and take a look at the t_wat table. Bump the fuel about 10% at the bin showing the current temperature (cursor should already be there) and increase surrounding bins say, 5%. Now do the same for the crank map.
Bridgeports take a LOT of fuel to start up, especially in cold weather. Sounds like the startup maps have not been tuned.
In the morning before you leave for work, plug in your handset/laptop and take a look at the t_wat table. Bump the fuel about 10% at the bin showing the current temperature (cursor should already be there) and increase surrounding bins say, 5%. Now do the same for the crank map.
Bridgeports take a LOT of fuel to start up, especially in cold weather. Sounds like the startup maps have not been tuned.
#6
So myself and my tuner have tried everything on this car. I moved the coolant sensor from front of the thermostat to behind it so it will read the coolant temperature faster. We took fuel away on the coolant, as much as possible. Well, waited until the next morning. Coolant/water temp was as usual 31*C which is 87*F. We took fuel away on the lower map or to started it, nothing, we gave it fuel nothing,again it will not fire, it will try but then is just spinning and don't want the battery to go down on voltage. So my tuner says that due to the motor been a bit low on compression is the reason, 65 front and 75 rear. If that is the reason, why is it when I go back to it at around 3 hrs later the motor fires up just showing the key to it. If this statement is correct then it should not fire either in the mornings or afternoons. So I guess the only time I can use this car is in the afternoons, LOL. I'm lost.
Edgar
Edgar
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#8
Edgar
#9
Engine, Not Motor
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Don't use MMO for anything. Read the datasheet. It is just wax mud and not suitable for a premix or lubricant.
If you want to use oil to raise compression, then just two stroke oil in the chambers will do the job fine.
As for the startup, why are you REMOVING fuel? Your description of the car cranking and cranking, almost firing, means that the engine is too lean. And if it has lower compression, then that calls for even more fuel.
Is this a new engine? Is this a new tune or has everything been working previously?
I agree, 4 x 1600 cc injectors are a bit ridiculous for that engine. That's about 750Hp worth of fuel capability. You will find it a much easier to tune if you go to smaller primaries like the 850CC units you mention. Even that's a bit big. The Microtech doesn't have much resolution down low due to the way it stages so with 1600CC injectors you'll have a hard time leaning it out at low throttles.
If you want to use oil to raise compression, then just two stroke oil in the chambers will do the job fine.
As for the startup, why are you REMOVING fuel? Your description of the car cranking and cranking, almost firing, means that the engine is too lean. And if it has lower compression, then that calls for even more fuel.
Is this a new engine? Is this a new tune or has everything been working previously?
I agree, 4 x 1600 cc injectors are a bit ridiculous for that engine. That's about 750Hp worth of fuel capability. You will find it a much easier to tune if you go to smaller primaries like the 850CC units you mention. Even that's a bit big. The Microtech doesn't have much resolution down low due to the way it stages so with 1600CC injectors you'll have a hard time leaning it out at low throttles.
#10
Don't use MMO for anything. Read the datasheet. It is just wax mud and not suitable for a premix or lubricant.
If you want to use oil to raise compression, then just two stroke oil in the chambers will do the job fine.
As for the startup, why are you REMOVING fuel? Your description of the car cranking and cranking, almost firing, means that the engine is too lean. And if it has lower compression, then that calls for even more fuel.
Is this a new engine? Is this a new tune or has everything been working previously?
I agree, 4 x 1600 cc injectors are a bit ridiculous for that engine. That's about 750Hp worth of fuel capability. You will find it a much easier to tune if you go to smaller primaries like the 850CC units you mention. Even that's a bit big. The Microtech doesn't have much resolution down low due to the way it stages so with 1600CC injectors you'll have a hard time leaning it out at low throttles.
If you want to use oil to raise compression, then just two stroke oil in the chambers will do the job fine.
As for the startup, why are you REMOVING fuel? Your description of the car cranking and cranking, almost firing, means that the engine is too lean. And if it has lower compression, then that calls for even more fuel.
Is this a new engine? Is this a new tune or has everything been working previously?
I agree, 4 x 1600 cc injectors are a bit ridiculous for that engine. That's about 750Hp worth of fuel capability. You will find it a much easier to tune if you go to smaller primaries like the 850CC units you mention. Even that's a bit big. The Microtech doesn't have much resolution down low due to the way it stages so with 1600CC injectors you'll have a hard time leaning it out at low throttles.
This is a pretty strong engine, with a 76 mm and 81 a/r on the two step launch at 8400 and just putting the gears in runs 10.92 at 128 mph. And once hot it will fire up right away, so, again I'm lost.
#11
Engine, Not Motor
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When you were adding fuel, how much did you add?
Cranking pulsewidth cold on a bridgeported engine with 4 x 1600CC injectors should be around 8mS. Yes, that is a LOT of fuel.
Where are your injectors positioned on the 12A? Going to be a custom manifold, so if the injectors are way up there away from the ports, it's going to take even more fuel due to wall wetting.
Cranking pulsewidth cold on a bridgeported engine with 4 x 1600CC injectors should be around 8mS. Yes, that is a LOT of fuel.
Where are your injectors positioned on the 12A? Going to be a custom manifold, so if the injectors are way up there away from the ports, it's going to take even more fuel due to wall wetting.
#12
When you were adding fuel, how much did you add?
Cranking pulsewidth cold on a bridgeported engine with 4 x 1600CC injectors should be around 8mS. Yes, that is a LOT of fuel.
Where are your injectors positioned on the 12A? Going to be a custom manifold, so if the injectors are way up there away from the ports, it's going to take even more fuel due to wall wetting.
Cranking pulsewidth cold on a bridgeported engine with 4 x 1600CC injectors should be around 8mS. Yes, that is a LOT of fuel.
Where are your injectors positioned on the 12A? Going to be a custom manifold, so if the injectors are way up there away from the ports, it's going to take even more fuel due to wall wetting.
#17
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search for an online user manual as it will come in handy.
press down arrow until you hit screen 20.
then use left and right to view the different temp ranges.write all the settings down.
then down arrow to screen 22 and repeat.
I havent used the handset before but looks like there are no temp corrections for 24C so its way too lean to start.
post screen 20 and 22 settings so i can tell for sure.
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT HIT MODE BUTTON.
press down arrow until you hit screen 20.
then use left and right to view the different temp ranges.write all the settings down.
then down arrow to screen 22 and repeat.
I havent used the handset before but looks like there are no temp corrections for 24C so its way too lean to start.
post screen 20 and 22 settings so i can tell for sure.
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT HIT MODE BUTTON.
#18
here are the numbers from page 20 and 22.
Page 20
Water 18*C +10%
11*C +26%
05*C +35%
-01*C +46%
-09*C +57%
-17*C +60%
-25*C +63%
124*C +00%
99*C +00%
82*C +00%
68*C +00%
60*C +00%
46*C +00%
38*C +00%
31*C + 00%
24*C +00%
Page 22
Crank 31*C +00%
24*C +00%
18*C +00%
11*C +00%
05*C +20%
-01*C +21%
-09*C +23%
-17*C +25%
-25*C +27%
124*C +00%
99*C +00%
82*C +00%
68*C +00%
60*C +00%
46*C +00%
38*C +00%
These are the numbers from the handset. Let me know what you see here. Thanks for the help:
Edgar
Page 20
Water 18*C +10%
11*C +26%
05*C +35%
-01*C +46%
-09*C +57%
-17*C +60%
-25*C +63%
124*C +00%
99*C +00%
82*C +00%
68*C +00%
60*C +00%
46*C +00%
38*C +00%
31*C + 00%
24*C +00%
Page 22
Crank 31*C +00%
24*C +00%
18*C +00%
11*C +00%
05*C +20%
-01*C +21%
-09*C +23%
-17*C +25%
-25*C +27%
124*C +00%
99*C +00%
82*C +00%
68*C +00%
60*C +00%
46*C +00%
38*C +00%
These are the numbers from the handset. Let me know what you see here. Thanks for the help:
Edgar
Last edited by wickdgt; 10-06-16 at 08:57 AM.
#19
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Wow what a mess
With numbers like that im surprised it runs at all.
Getting these maps sorted will be pretty straight forward but i suspect the rest of the map will be a mess too and worst case scenario could destroy the engine.
You need to either find a decent tuner or get a wideband,instruction download and willing to have a go.
Personally id take it to an expert but ill try and help if you are willing to take the risk.
With numbers like that im surprised it runs at all.
Getting these maps sorted will be pretty straight forward but i suspect the rest of the map will be a mess too and worst case scenario could destroy the engine.
You need to either find a decent tuner or get a wideband,instruction download and willing to have a go.
Personally id take it to an expert but ill try and help if you are willing to take the risk.
#20
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Should be able to get it started and running no problems if everything else is ok.
Boost maps should be really done on the dyno to get the most out of it safely.
Boost maps should be really done on the dyno to get the most out of it safely.
#21
Edgar
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Go to screen 30 Mixtrim and change value to +20% and try to start at prob temps.
If no start try keep adding +5%.
As aaron mentioned it changes the whole fuel map but will give you an idea of how much extra fuel will need to be added to the map for it to start with mixtrim back at 0.
If no start try keep adding +5%.
As aaron mentioned it changes the whole fuel map but will give you an idea of how much extra fuel will need to be added to the map for it to start with mixtrim back at 0.
#25
So I did what you said. Went to page 30, Mixtrim. It was at 0%. I gave it 20% like you said. Lock it down. I turn the key and it was trying to fire and then suddenly it fire up 29*c. I let it warm up and A/F ratio is in the 12.50-70 and it loves it. I can tap the throttle and it is clean with no stumble. Motor responds faster. So the question is, do I have to put the Mixtrim back to 0%.
Edgar
Edgar