kneel_to_the_rotary69

i just recently purchased a microtech lt10s with a x4 ignition, my question is when i got it ( i got it used ) the loom looked amazing thanks to the guy who sold it to me he cleaned it up a bit. my question is from the x4 box there are 4 wires that are cut and i have no idea where they go? wires are green/red/black/white as for the those wires i havent a clue of where they go or anything. please someone help. its stock t2 motor, i am also concerned about the x4 box being under the hood, if it will hurt it any, for i dont want to cut and extend wires. the diagram from the microtech site only gives me a diagram for the lt10 to a subie. if anyone has the entire diagram let me know and i can hopefully get the rest from there. ill post pics of what i am talking about.

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

Yo dimitri its cory see you went standalone lol i have a LT10S go figure anyway if you need help with X4 box ur best bet might be a member by tha name of RX72C (not to say that everyone in here isnt or anything) he is like the microtech god that should get you started.

kneel_to_the_rotary69

damn long time no see or talk. lost the number i had for you. how did you wire yours up if you have a clue. i mean the loom is all there and it looks really good and i dont see anything wrong with the wires it looks fantastic thanks to the guy who sold it to me. but the four wires that lead out of the x4 box is weird. and cant find out how to lead.

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

i dont know to be honest with you i am running stock T2 coils so just give it overnight someone will post

kneel_to_the_rotary69

im running stock completely my motor is still stock. nothing done to her yet, other then the standalone.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Ive sent you a a pm.

To add to the pm i already sent you concering the coils.

Put a 12v ignition to each positive power on each coil

If you dont have a good one.

You can run direct power from your battery or starter motor. that works fine as well.

SCCAITS

iTrader: (3)

How much power do the coils need (amps) ? I am wiring up a LT10 and X4 using 4 trailing coils. The car does not have any stock wiring. I'm trying to figure out where I want to power the coils from and it depends on what the coils draw. If I run from the starter, shouldn't it be fused?

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Run it from the starter.
And put a 40 amp fuse.

SCCAITS

iTrader: (3)

How many amps should 4 trailing coils pull? I can only find fuse holders rated at 30a (even though they have 10ga pig tails).

I was going to pull power from the B terminal on the alternator - which is hooked to the starter via 10ga as the starter runs to the battery in the back of the car via 2ga. The kill switch is run off a 200a relay located by the battery. Wiring is my weak point but I don't see why I can't run a 10 ga power lead off the B terminal for the coils, right?

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

I do alot of overkill when it comes to wiring.

But a 30A fuse will work for your coils.

10 guage wire is fine.

darkphantom

iTrader: (2)

call me tomorrow and ill help you out with it ill walk with you with it!(305) 978-1352

SCCAITS

iTrader: (3)

I tried do overkill as well. Thanks for the info.

Thanks, will do. I'll take any tips I can get, it's my first wiring job. I did the main wiring while waiting for the Microtech arrive. It's all done in 10/14/16ga cross-linked polyethylene jacket wire, Weather Pack and Metri-Pack connectors (19 total - I wanted everything plugged and new plugs - CAS/wipers/brake lights/coils, etc) - soldered pins, soldered connections with heat shrink and all wrapped in Tesa harness tape. Battery is hooked up with 2ga welding wire soldered and heat shrinked. I should have used a Painless switch panel but instead used a Moroso fused/lighted switch panel so that took extra time.

I just have to hook up the Microtech this weekend. The instructions seem very straight forward, but I had not accounted for needing high amp 12v to the coils or to the ECU, just have an extra 10ga wire off the ignition switch but don't think it can handle the load with only a 20a switch.

Question is will it all work or maybe I have something overloaded, guess I'll find out.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Dont load it off the ignition switch?

If you want it ignition switch use a relay per pair of coils.

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

was browsing for answers and came across this guy ... I'm looking at the schematics for wiring up the coils, it doesnt show a fuse or relay anywhere with the positive wire connected to all the coils and ignition?

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Schematics dont show all. Somethings you have to with your own knowledge.

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

how big a relay are we talking for the coils 4 prong, or 5 ? (im assuming 4 unless im missing something)
why wouldnt one be sufficient before the ignition splits for each set of coils?

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

I usually like running 2 30amp coils. One relay per pair. I have tried it with one relay and the relay will get hot after some use. Were as with two. Always cold.

abtosway

iTrader: (2)

So I'm in a similar boat here, and I'm thinking we should politely ask microtech for a diagram concerning the X4 box? haha I've looked on every website with Microtech in the address bar and found no diagrams mentioning it.

Anyways, my understanding is that when using factory FC TII S5 trailing coils, 12v+ is run to the tan wires, and the blue and black wires (on coils) are connected to the orange and yellow firing signal wires (from X4). Then simply ground/earth the black wire to the engine block and I'm on my way?

Just like to confirm in simple terms for those rotary enthusiasts still on a learning curve, like myself

BLACK MAMBA

iTrader: (58)

there should only be 2 wires on the coils, you are running the coil without the igniter.

abtosway

iTrader: (2)

exactly! so in that case the tan wire on the coil is the positive? and the black wire (blue on the coil marked T2) is the signal?

abtosway

iTrader: (2)

edit: Look at me learning! I'm going to have this sorted in no time!
Alright, so upon taking apart the trailing ignitor, all becomes clear.
-The brown wire between the ignitor and the coils is the +12v and the black an T1 is the signal, the blue on T2 is the signal.
The tach output on the original is replaced by the output on the x4 box.
I'm now 70% confident i can wire these without blowing up the x4, lt10 or my coils!
(ps last chance to correct me! )