TII '87

Hi guys, hope you can help me out on this one!

car : TII '87
mods : 550/1600 injectors, HKS FMIC, Greddy BOV, hybrid T04B, no emissions, Tb mod, etc ( I mean that's pretty much about it for the mods that could be relevant to my trouble )

Here's the problem : I bought a used microtech LT8 from 'SMOKEN and it appeared he sold a blown unit ( cough cough with the price of a working one cough cough ) So I sent it to one of my friend's cybernetic's factory and repaired it for me ( those were simply 2 transistor toasted ).

So I plug it and try to start the car. No way to start! When I took a look at the values inside those were horribly off. So I just entered silverrotor base map and try it out. After few minor adjustments with my friend's dash unit, the car was idling and ran CRAZY RICH and I use the word crazy because I dont know much other word worse than this one.

So I begin to adjust the timing, by beginning to remove align and restab CAS and using a timing light. I wasn't even able to arrive close to the marks by turning the CAS.

Also, after adjusting the timing, the car simply wouldn't start and the plug arent wet, they're SOAKING wet!!! If i crank with a plug removed, there's such a giga could of gaz that expands in the engine bay....So i tried to remove fuel from the idle map and lower load map but nothing good happens....

I'm pretty confused on this one.... do you know what should i do to fix this damn problem?

I thought it might be a stuck open injector, but I had them clean before I put the microtech... I'm gonna double check it though...

I also do not have vacuum leaks, i pull a strong 16mmHG at 650 rpm


CONNECTION PROBLEM NOW

I have a standard computer ( not a laptop ) in my garage with usb port, serial port etc. the computer isn't able to recognize my microtech at all....

is it related to the fact that I use windows XP or what??


Thanks a lot guys!

102nd7

iTrader: (1)

Any luck im having something similar to this with mine!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The base map is crazy rich to begin with. Have you tried decreasing the amount of fuel in the idle maps?

The car probably won't restart because it's flooded and/or the plugs are fouled.

The timing issue is a common one. Restab the CAS to factory specs and then try to adjust timing when you get the car running (make sure timing is locked when you do this). You need to get a fairly steady idle first. If you can't get the timing marks to line up, grind the slot in the CAS until you do.

jdub2

A lot of people advise that you "piggyback" the new ECU over the factory one - you can do this but you must disconnect the wires from the factory ecu outputs to the coils and the injectors - both ecu's will try to feed the injectors - hence twice the fuel being injected - lots of black smoke ( not good for the injector driver transistors in the ecu either.

input sensors to disconnect from the factory ecu in piggyback mode are the water temp and the air temp sensors

TII '87

Aaron

Steve was simply amazed at how much the fuel and timing values were off

I did take the base map values from silverrotor in the archive. So I advice anybody that would like to use these values to be careful with them

The engine was clearly flooded, but I know how to unflood it. So it wasnt a problem at all.

for the CAS, Steve thought that the trigger was off, but it wasnt, the CAS was stabbed correctly. Those were the microtech timing values that were simply crazy. I mean, the neighbors thought it was a remake of WW2 and were calling the cops because there were like 2 backfire per second

Jdub

I didnt plug the microtech in a piggyback style. I did remove all the stock wiring harness and ECU and redid a complete wiring harness which was soldered and heat shrunk.


After all, my car is finally running and everything is ok beside of a couple really minor concerns

l-p

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

LOL. Sounds like a fun time....

The base map from Microtech is good enough to generally start and drive the car to the dyno, but not much more.

Glad to hear you got it going.

Overall I'd have to say that of all the standalones I have done, the Microtechs have been the easiest and least problematic of them all.

TII '87

I have no doubt about it.................... when the base maps values are correctly in, which obviously wasn't my case....

Plus, Steve told me that microtechs were the EMS he hates the most. they have so much things that he cannot control besides haltechs automotive etc...

The point he hates the most about microtech is that he cannot adjust the C.A.S. sensibility. So we had to use something like 4 C.A.S. before trying one that had enough sensibility to fire the trailing coils at the cranking speed!

l-p

turbo80cid

I’ve always heard that the Microtech doesn’t fire the trailing coils during cranking?
So how quickly does your car start now?

TII '87

Well...

Since Steve was in an ultimate rush ( it was 8:00pm, he had to leave for texas the morning after and he still had 4 cars to tune ), my idle map is working correctly, my car starts with no problem, but my idle is a bit off

I'm gonna change every injectors Orings tomorrow, because they leak a little and I dont wanna have a fire under the hood

It may even fix the problem!

l-p

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I've never seen a LT-8 fire the trailings during cranking. I don't know for sure how the Microtech uses the signals from the CAS (maybe someone from Microtech will chime in?) but the CAS contains two rotors, a home and a trigger. The home tells the ECU when the engine is coming to TDC, and the trigger tells it the angle of the engine. From there it calculates when it needs to fire the ignition. So the CAS really doesn't trigger anything directly. I could be TOTALLY wrong, but this is how all the other ECUs work and I would assume the Microtech is the same way.