skim41

Ok,

Im at the point of getting a nervous breakdown from my car.

The car has been down for 2 years now and mainly because I got screwed by dirty south rotary for 3K dollar.

I finally have an engine in which is half bridgeported. Because I have a weak battery and low compression (60-50-50 front and 60-40-40 rear) or something like that with a little atf and used parts all around. I opted for tow starting today, the car started up after 10 meters of tow starting and seemed to idle fairly well. However when the car started up it was popping and banging like hell, even with some throttle applied. So I started messing with the timing somewhat and the popping and banging still was there. So I fiddled with the mixtrim option, still the same.

The car will absolutely not start when I try to start it with the key.

What o what could it be so that I can start by hand. I have a base fuel pressure of around 25 PSI
The vacuum is 11" HG at 2000 RpM
The Microtech isnt reading/pointing out any errors.

Im running 850 primaries and 1600cc secondaries.
The car is a FD
The timing is around 15 degrees up to 3000 RPM. The timing will drop from +5 degrees to 0 in the vacuum range.
The timing split is 15degrees and goes back to 10 degrees.

Who can help out and what are some base maps on which I can start it. I havent checked for vacuum leaks yet, but I think I have one at the secondary injectors. Have to seal it tomorrow. Anybody care to shed some light into this?

Im close to giving up on my car.

skim41

I want to check the compression on the engine tomorrow again, hopefully this should be a little higher. Also the engine will crank over, but no sign of looking to start yet.

Broken09

iTrader: (1)

This may seem stupid but are you sure you have the ECU connected to the correct Ignition wire? When installing I mistook a black with yellow wire for a black with white and when I tried to start the car the ECU wasn't getting power.
Also make sure you run the test the manual talks about insuring the yellow LED on the side of the ECU flashes as you crank the car over. I forget the actual steps but it's all there. Pretty basic stuff I know but worth making sure of.
-Nic

skim41

I will check that again. However when I had my old engine in last year (it seized due to no oil) it would start up with no problem. I havent changed any of the wiring.

Crusader_9x

Your base pressure seems offully low to me, although i dont know if that could cause any problems or not. Its normally in the 35 to 45 range.

Id check for vacum leaks, sounds like you may have one or two. Also what rpm does it idle at?

skim41

Will do that today. The idle was at around 1500 slowing down somewhat, so I kept it at around 1750 by keeping on the pedal.

What would you suggest for timing due to the backfiring?

10sec rx7

put base pressure to 40psi,

re stab the CAS chances are you have it a tooth out

skim41

OK, will do that.

Can you explain me what you mean with restabbing? I have an FD, thats a different Cas than the FC

10sec rx7

ah ok didnt realise it was a fd, im pretty sure you can physically change the timing on a fd so it wont be out, it will only be fuel or plug leads put on the wrong plug

skim41

Hi,

You cant change the timing on a FD. Only in the microtech. What would be wrong with the fuel? Ill check the leads right away, but I know they are good cause they are new.

Broken09

iTrader: (1)

also did you properly configure the TPS sensor?

skim41

Hi,

Will check that for sure in the next five minuts. Just checked the compression. Its 90-90-80 on the front and 50-50-50 on the rear. The car is cranking over, but will just not start, almost, but not yet.

Is my timing off? Will post some figures in ten minuts or so.

skim41

TPS is properly calibrated!

skim41

compression went up to 90-90-90 on the front rotor and 60-60-60 rear.

skim41

base pressure is around 38-40 on fthe FPR when the key is on the start positon

Broken09

iTrader: (1)

did you check to make sure the Microtech is getting power while you crank it?

skim41

yes, it is. The car has been up and running with the same wiring/microtech before with my old engine.

MARTIN

Im pretty sure its a timing issue, but Im sure you can sort it out with a base map.

skim41

The stupid thing still doesnt want to start up. However I think its somehow flooded, because it started running real rough after idling after pull starting it. Anybody got some base MS times for a large streetport or similar?

skim41

It seems that I flooded 1 of the rotors, cause there was a lot of oil/gas on the sparkplug. However the compression is still low. 90 on the front on the rear it went down. 50-30-30 or so.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Pull of the Top inlet manifold. Poor down a fair bit of oil down each runner(this will help compression).
Set your opt_mixtrim to 00 and have your idle 10_hg at aroun 2.1ms. and yuor idle_15hg at around 1.8ms.
That should fire it up. Run rich but itll fire up. And use the idle screw and raise the idle to 1700rpm(to make up for the low comp) until it builds up compression.
Once it builds up some compression youll find the car will pull more vaccum on idle and everything will start to stabalise.



Almost forgot. Buy some TOYOTA CAMRY spark plugs for the 4 cylinder model and just screw them in finger tight(dont tighten them) and that will solve your flooding problem and use it to run your engine in (for more comp).

skim41

Hi,

Thanks RX72c. I will try the ATF trick tonight.

What sparkplugs are these? Are these hotter and do you have a NGK code number like B10EGV

skim41

Pull started tonight, but still no go. It fires up, idles fine around 1750 and able to drive. Im checking the compression once again tomorrow. If its still low Ill take the engine out and and swap another one in. This is driving me nuts.

skim41

Couldnt check for compression today, the battery is too weak. However I tried to start it by key and it would almost start.,... When I pressed the pedal it would go away. Am I flooding it or am I too lean?

Arvika

How does the leading sparkplugs look?
Wet?
Black?

With such big injectors that you use, you could take down the Mixtrm on screen 30 for about -30%... Just for a test... If it starts like that, then you are way to rich!
But don't drive it at -30% without a proper A/F meter!