Hey all, just got my mates car going after rebuild etc..and am after good ignition timing and split settings to complement his setup... which is pretty much identical to mine (signature) except hes running a gt35/40, so should be making more Hp than me once properly tuned. I'd give him my timing maps, but the guy who tuned my car locked my ECU

Done a bit of reading about timing and bridgeports etc...so have a fair idea of what should be going on.

Currently the Microtech is running the map from his previous setup which was a big street port with 550/1600 combo, gt35/40.

So far ive set the static timing to -5 first mark on the pulley (yellow), stabbed the CAS and then started up the motor. As i knew it would the motor ran like **** being a bridgeport with the stock timing configuration. Now which is the correct way to do this?

Do I rotate the CAS and advance the timing until she runs right, then lock the ignition timing.....or

Do I lock it at -5, and advance the timing via the microtech until she runs right?

Cheers

 

i been looking for similar info to run my brothers HB with no luck at all,the microtec does not want to start the motor with the map that came with the ecu and if it does idles and run like crap,cant afford a tuner right now so i guess that it wont run for a while

 

Hey joel. Ill post up the map now.

So you can all see.

 

Hey joel sorry for the delay. Here it is mate.

This tune is out of a car that is exactly the same as you in nearly every aspect other then turbo..

Fuel pressure 40psi base.


Idle Map
Screen 1

30" ~ 1.38
25" ~ 1.48
20" ~ 1.33
15" ~ 1.71
10" ~ 1.71
05" ~ 1.62
00" ~ 2.00
2-20psi ~ 4.95

Load Map
Screen 3

30" ~ 0.95
25" ~ 1.19
20" ~ 1.33
15" ~ 1.71
10" ~ 2.14
05" ~ 2.57
00" ~ 2.86
2psi ~ 2.2
4psi ~ 3.2
6psi ~ 3.8
8psi ~ 4.4
10psi ~ 4.9
14psi ~ 5.5
16psi ~ 5.9
18psi ~ 6.5
20psi ~ 7

RPMwot Map Screen 17

5000 ~ 05
5500 ~ 08
6000 ~ 08
6500 ~ 10
7000 ~ 11
7500 ~ 11
8000 ~ 11
9000 ~ 12

The rest are zero

RPMcrs Screen 18

1000 ~ -12
1500 ~ -11
2000 ~ -12

THe rest are zero



Pump Map
Screen 19

Pump2Start ~ 2000
Pump1Amt ~ 00
Pump1Pulse ~ 04
Pump1Trig ~ 18
Pump1Stop ~ 00
Pump1Adv ~ 05

Pump2Time ~ 10
Pump2Amt ~ 30
Pump2Trig ~ 16
Pump2Stop ~ 00
Pump2Adv ~ 05

PumpDwell ~ 3.00
PumpTimers ~ No
Pump1Sync ~ No
PumpSpare ~ 00
PumpCold ~ 00

Water Map
Screen 20

-25 ~ 0
-17 ~ 70
-9 ~ 60
-01 ~ 50
05 ~ 45
11 ~ 45
18 ~ 42
24 ~ 34
31 ~ 26
38 ~ 24
46 ~ 19
60 ~ 12
68 ~ 06
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

Air_t Map
Screen 21

-25 ~ 0
-17 ~ 8
-9 ~ 6
-1 ~ 5
5 ~ 4
11 ~ 3
18 ~ 3
24 ~ 0
31 ~ 0
38 ~ 0
46 ~ 0
60 ~ 0
68 ~ 0
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

Crank Map
Screen 22

-25 ~ 72
-17 ~ 72
-9 ~ 72
-1 ~ 67
5 ~ 62
11 ~ 57
18 ~ 50
24 ~ 41
31 ~ 31
38 ~ 26
46 ~ 20
60 ~ 15
68 ~ 5
82 ~ 0
99 ~ 0
124 ~ 0

t*rpm
Screen 23

Idle ~ 00
1000 ~ 10
1500 ~ 15
2000 ~ 20
2500 ~ 25
3000 ~ 25
3500 ~ 25
4000 ~ 25
4500 ~ 25
5000 ~ 25
5500 ~ 25
6000 ~ 25
6500 ~ 25
7000 ~ 25
7500 ~ ??
8000 ~ 25
9000 ~ 25

t*map Map
Screen 24

Idle ~ 00
25 ~ 05
20 ~ 04
15 ~ 03
10 ~ 02
05 ~ 00
00 ~ 00
2psi ~ 00
4psi ~ 00
6psi ~ 02
8psi ~ -04
10psi ~ -06
14psi ~ -10
16psi ~ -12
18 psi ~ -16
20 psi ~ -20

t*air Screen 25
Correction value Is expressed as number of degrees you wish to advance or Retard to the Ignition curve and values Is set at zero.

t*gap
Screen 26

0500 ~ 15
1000 ~ 15
1500 ~ 15
2000 ~ 14
2500 ~ 12
3000 ~ 10
3500 ~ 10
4000 ~ 10
4500 ~ 10
5000 ~ 10
5500 ~ 10
6000 ~ 10
6500 ~ 10
7000 ~ 10
8000 ~ 10

t*Inj Map
Screen 27

0500 ~ 120
1000 ~ 150
1500 ~ 150
2000 ~ 150
2500 ~ 150
3000 ~ 150
3500 ~ 150
4000 ~ 150
4500 ~ 180
5000 ~ 210
5500 ~ 210
6000 ~ 240
6500 ~ 240
7000 ~ 270
8000 ~ 270
9000 ~ 270

t*wat Map Screen 28


ANd the rest are zero

Option Map
Screen 30

Af_StE ~ 10
Dwell ~ 3.25 *set at Time Base - not at Duty Cycle*
REVstg ~ 1320
MAPstg ~ 02"
%stg ~ 50


If it starts and dosnt want to idle.

Put +10 in the opt_mixtrm

And work your way from their.

 

Will this map work for my full bridge? an whats the story with the initial ignition timing setting? rotate CAS or use microtech? im assuming from the timing settings in the map u just posted, that rotating the CAS is the way to go?

 

No definitely not.

CAS must stay in FACTORY POSITION.
Line it up with the 5 degree mark.
And put the rest in the computer.

That map should work with your bridge. But may run alittle rich. since you have 1000cc injectors this map was designed for 800/1700cc injectors. But it should still work.

 

thanks mate, legend.

 

no problems.
joel let me know how it goes in your car as well.
thanks mate.

 

im not gonna be able to start the motor up,compression its on the 60s on the front rotor and 90s rear,i dont get it maybe cause its a fresh rebuild?but im gonna use my turbo injector combo on a non bridged motor,now i may need a map for that

 

Who built the engine?
A freshly built motor will not always have good comp. before giving up on it. Put engine oil in the spark plug wholes.
Get it started.
And take it for a good 150-200kms drive.

Do another compression test. It should be 100psi in both rotors. If not somethings wrong.

 

Hey Joey, I typically pour 3 capfuls (soda bottle type cap) of atf down each runner to start a newly rebuilt engine. 19 times out of 20, it works. When it does start, make sure you keep it running, because if you let it die, it will be impossible to start unless you put atf in again. For me it usually takes about 20 - 30 mins of sitting in the car and blipping the throttle constantly and keeping it around 3500 rpms until you can get it to idle on it's own. Then I let it sit there for a while and run while I check everything.
Warning: it will get VERY smoky!!!

 

nice tip i will surely keep that in mind when i start my car!

 

Just use engine oil.

ATF is very messy inside. TRUST ME.

Engine oil will get it to kick 100%

 

i did opened up the engine guys and somehow 3 of my side seals where jammed.No biggie i glass blasted my rotors in order to get them clean,im gonna put the motor back together and try it again

 

Youll find its in the clearnencing.

They most likely would have eventually freed up. BUT check your clearences.

 

I always "scrape" the side seal groove with an old side seal. Then again, you probably already knew that...

 

Good advice.
Always do that.

 

clearance was of,i had no clearance on the 3 first side seals(the ones facing the irons)and for some reason my atkins new desing corner seals are not in spec(its the second set that i get and they dont inspect fine)they height its wrong,they spec out to 6.5mm and the minimum being 6.8mm so that could be part of the problem to,now i need solid corner seals for this port job did any of you guys know about any other companies that make 2MM solid corner seals?

 

I sell Solid corner seals.


Pm me and i can help your or buy directly off my website.