lousrx2

Can anyone verify this. If I have my distributor at -5 degrees. And my static timming on my microtech at +5 degrees. Does that put me at 0 degress prior to starting the car? Also my Ignition timming at idle is +10 on the microtech ignition map. When I unlock my timming map on the microtech and I put a timming light on my pulley should I be at +5 degrees?

butcheryboy

ur meaning CAS not distributor? anyway if you line up the yellow mark on the pulley (if using s4/5 pulley) providing uve stabbed the CAS properly, then ur static timing will be at -5 degrees when "TIMING LOCK ON". Static timing is the common reference point for both Microtech and motor. Therefore static timing should be -5 for both Motor and Microtech using s4/5 pullies. The microtech adjusts timing from this starting point.

Once timing lock is turned "OFF" the timing will be adjusted according to the value in the t*rpm map in respect to engine speed. You say at idle that value is 10+, then yes timing will "actually" be +5 degrees as
(-5 +10 = +5)..

Koasha?

lousrx2

We what I'm trying to do is make sure my timming is correct. I have a racingbeat pulley and have it lock at -5degrees like Microtech recommends. What they don't say is what your static timming should be.

butcheryboy

locked timing IS static timing -5 at the pulley, should be -5 with timing check on.

lousrx2

I have a racingbeat pulley timming marks are as follow +20 +10 0 -10 these are the 4 marks on the pulley so -5 will be between 0 and -10. Do you know if 0 degrees on a racingbeat pulley is 0 or is -5?

lousrx2

Yes thats correct with timming check on I'm on -5 my static timming on the microtech is +5 because there is no -5. This puts me at 0 then at idle I'm +10 with the timming lock off. my full advance at 3000rpm is +25 at the point I put a timming light on the pully what should the timming on pulley show. +15, +20 or actually +25.

butcheryboy

0 degrees on the pulley should be TDC...MAzda only uses -5 to get a smooth idle and to give turbo cars a bit of a safety buffer...

If when timing lock on its at -5 then dats all good, thats how uve stabbed the CAS. take timing lock off and it will advance to whatever the value in the t*rpm map is... cruze is 25 degrees normaly.

You can restab the CAS at actual TDC 0 degrees, some people have done it, but personally i prefer to have a small safety buffer...

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

pulley is not mark for TDC.

its marked for -5 and -20.

Why complicate things for?

Stab at -5, and work from their.

lousrx2

I've seen a lot of microtech maps and almost all of them run 0 degrees static. So let me get this correct lock cas at -5 degrees whick will be between 0 and -10 on a racingbeat pulley of corse with the timming lock on. Then run 0 static on the microtech. Turn my timming lock off. On my t*map +10 at Idle and then a gradual increase to max +25 degrees. Does -11 degrees out of +25 sound good at 14lbs if boost?

butcheryboy

yes, microtech cannot register anything below 0, so if uve stabbed the CAS at -5 on the pulley microtech will always read 0 wiv timing lock on even though its actually -5

Yes that ign map sounds about right..

bumpstart

set static timing value to ZERO
set timing lock to on
rotate CAS so -5 mark is at timing pin
lock it down

- now all map values you see are NOT BTDC
they are in reference from the datum point - and that point is ( 5 ATDC )

if you have a remarked pulley, nothing stopping you making your datum as TDC
-but your eventual timing maps will all look 5 degrees LOWER than those values as set in a car with a -5 datum


so - if your following what i am saying-
values on the handset that say + 33 degrees ( from datum ) actually represent 28 BTDC TRUE

in your scenario, setting static value as zero, and using the -5 pulley mark with a +10 idle setting

equates to a 5 BTDC idle
a 33 degree TMax equates to 28 BTDC
OK?

IF you EVER see a remarked pulley, be exactly sure if its a true BTC mark or a -5 ATDC one
if unsure , err with 5 degree lower bin values --!@!


PS
be VERY wary if shifting the static or timing trim values
- go straight to the Tmax, and see if it has shifted its endpoint automatically
( inadvertently and engine fatally !!! )
a motor lethal trap for new players

PSS
i run in hot , dry, sea level air tmax is usually 28 BTDC true ( 33 )
and my extend ports like a 5 to 10 BTDC idle , mild port to near stockies TDC or 5 ATDC

lousrx2

Thanks for all the info you never could get enough . I'm going to call racingbeat tomorrow and ask them if their pully TDC mark is truely -5 ATDC. Currently my cas is lock at -5 so if they say that it's truely -5 then I'm at -10 ATDC. To make a long story short my total advance is +25 degress with static of +5 so this means I'm actually +20 which is probably to low. or if not lower if the TDC mark is -5 then that means I'm at -10 then I will only be +15 BTDC which is definatly to low.

lousrx2

Just got an E-mail back from Racingbeat the 0* degrees mark on the pulley which is the 2nd line from left to right standing infront of the nose of the car is 0 degrees TDC. the line to the left is -10* degrees ATDC the 2 to the right is +10* BTDC and +20* degrees.