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Microtech A/C fix for FD

Old 11-15-05, 06:15 PM
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Smile A/C fix for FD

I know A/C fixes for the FC's are posted but I have not found one for the FD's. Just in case someone needs help. Here is my A/C should work for all FD's. Not my fault if sometihng messes up. Theres my disclaimer. This has worked so far and has the A/C switch,fan switch, and thermoswitch hooked up. I know some people are "piggy-backing" there Microtech and others just want A/C so this hould answer all your questons. Only drawback is engine load at idle. SO adjust your ECU's if possible.

What you will need:
1. (1) N.O (normaly Open) relay
2. Red and Black wiring. (I used Red and Black to help make it simple)
3.Wire cutters
4. Soldering iron
5. Electrical tape or heat shrink
6. (4) Female spade/crimp connectors
7. 10mm socket and wrachet (optional if stock ECU is used)

Instructions:

(skip line 1. if you do not have the stock ECU hooked up)

1. Remove the kick panel on the pass. side to remove the ECU. Remove the (3) 10mm bolts holding the PCM in. Remove the (4) connectors on the ECU.

2. Now looking at the connectors, you will be using/looking at the second largest connector on the end of the ECU. Just to make sure you have the right one there shold be Blue/Red wire on the end. Under that Black/Wight wire.

3. First off I cut about 12" of red wire and 12" of black wire. Then cut those down in half. Strip both sides of the four wires. Crimp connect the female spade connectors to the wires. Just to make sure we are together on this. One connector per wire.

4. Now put one female with red wire on the switch side of the relay or N.O pin. Now put one female with black on the switch side or Com pin of the relay.

5. Put one red female with red wire on the coil side pin of the relay. Last put the female with black on the other coil pin of the relay.

6. Now looking at the ECU connector mentioned earlier look for a Yellow/Black wire going in on the botom-middle of the connector. Once you have found this wire cut it and strip the wire. (this wire controls the A/C relay). Now take the red wire of the SWITCH SIDE of the relay and solder it to the cut Yellow/Back wire on the harness side of corse. Wrap with electrical tape or use heat shrink.

7.now comes the fun part. On the same ECU connector look for the Black/White wire on the end of the connector. This is a B+ or 12V suppley for the ECU. DO NOT CUT THIS WIRE ONLY STRIP SOME OF THE INSULATION BACK!!!! Now take the red wire from the coil side of the relay and solder the red wire on to where you stripped the Black/White wire. Cover or use heat shrink.

8. Now on the ECU connector look for a violet wire. To make sure were togther find the Black/White wire you just had, go up and there should be a Blue/Red wire. now go over two spaces and the violet should be there. The Violet wire has B+ or 12V coming from the ECU going to the A/C switch, thermo switch, A/C controls, etc...
Cut the Violet wire and solder the Black wire from the coil side of the relay.

9. Now ground out the last and remaining black wire from the relay to the body of the car or other ground. I zipped tied my relay out of the way behind the ECU in the finder cutout.

10. Reattach all the ECU connectors if you are using them.

CHECK AND RECHECK TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EVERYTHING HOOKED UP PROPERLY!

If you have any questions reply on post or email me at [email protected]
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Old 11-25-05, 07:08 PM
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Unhappy is there any way to make it work better?

Originally Posted by RedRX7R1
I know A/C fixes for the FC's are posted but I have not found one for the FD's. Just in case someone needs help. Here is my A/C should work for all FD's. Not my fault if sometihng messes up. Theres my disclaimer. This has worked so far and has the A/C switch,fan switch, and thermoswitch hooked up. I know some people are "piggy-backing" there Microtech and others just want A/C so this hould answer all your questons. Only drawback is engine load at idle. SO adjust your ECU's if possible.

What you will need:
1. (1) N.O (normaly Open) relay
2. Red and Black wiring. (I used Red and Black to help make it simple)
3.Wire cutters
4. Soldering iron
5. Electrical tape or heat shrink
6. (4) Female spade/crimp connectors
7. 10mm socket and wrachet (optional if stock ECU is used)

Instructions:

(skip line 1. if you do not have the stock ECU hooked up)

1. Remove the kick panel on the pass. side to remove the ECU. Remove the (3) 10mm bolts holding the PCM in. Remove the (4) connectors on the ECU.

2. Now looking at the connectors, you will be using/looking at the second largest connector on the end of the ECU. Just to make sure you have the right one there shold be Blue/Red wire on the end. Under that Black/Wight wire.

3. First off I cut about 12" of red wire and 12" of black wire. Then cut those down in half. Strip both sides of the four wires. Crimp connect the female spade connectors to the wires. Just to make sure we are together on this. One connector per wire.

4. Now put one female with red wire on the switch side of the relay or N.O pin. Now put one female with black on the switch side or Com pin of the relay.

5. Put one red female with red wire on the coil side pin of the relay. Last put the female with black on the other coil pin of the relay.

6. Now looking at the ECU connector mentioned earlier look for a Yellow/Black wire going in on the botom-middle of the connector. Once you have found this wire cut it and strip the wire. (this wire controls the A/C relay). Now take the red wire of the SWITCH SIDE of the relay and solder it to the cut Yellow/Back wire on the harness side of corse. Wrap with electrical tape or use heat shrink.

7.now comes the fun part. On the same ECU connector look for the Black/White wire on the end of the connector. This is a B+ or 12V suppley for the ECU. DO NOT CUT THIS WIRE ONLY STRIP SOME OF THE INSULATION BACK!!!! Now take the red wire from the coil side of the relay and solder the red wire on to where you stripped the Black/White wire. Cover or use heat shrink.

8. Now on the ECU connector look for a violet wire. To make sure were togther find the Black/White wire you just had, go up and there should be a Blue/Red wire. now go over two spaces and the violet should be there. The Violet wire has B+ or 12V coming from the ECU going to the A/C switch, thermo switch, A/C controls, etc...
Cut the Violet wire and solder the Black wire from the coil side of the relay.

9. Now ground out the last and remaining black wire from the relay to the body of the car or other ground. I zipped tied my relay out of the way behind the ECU in the finder cutout.

10. Reattach all the ECU connectors if you are using them.

CHECK AND RECHECK TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EVERYTHING HOOKED UP PROPERLY!

If you have any questions reply on post or email me at [email protected]
ALL I NEED FOR MY CAR TO BE COMPLETE IS FOR THE AIR CONDITIONING TO WORK RIGHT. BUT THERE IS ONLY ONE WIRE THAT CAN BE CONNECTED TO MAKE IT WORK AND THAT IS THE WHITE WIRE WHICH I ALLREADY HAVE CONNECTED TO THE FANS SO THEY COME ON AT 80 CELSIOS.IS THERE A SWICH OR SOMETHING THAT I CAN PUT TO THE FANS SO I CAN USE THI WIRE FOR THE AC SO IT COULD WORK? IS THERE A WAY TO CONNECT THE STOCK ECU FOR THE AC TO WORK? OR ANYWAY POSSIBLE I JUST WANT IT TO WORK WITHOUT MY CAR TURNING OFF EVERYTIME I TURN ON THE AC. IT SEEMS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE FOR ANYONE TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WITHOUT HAVING A BIG LOAD DROP. PLEASE HELP ME. THANKS IN ADVACE.
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Old 12-15-05, 05:59 PM
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Well here is what Im going to do as soon as I can figure out my RPM, Home error problem. You could hook up the the input wire to the A/C so it can "see" the load of the A/C. Your fans should be hook up on the output wire. And why @ 80C? Seems a little bit too cool. I have mine set at 94C (201F). Too cold runs the fans all the time and burns motors up. Anyways if you hook it up like I did up above it will work just fine. All you have to do is make sure you hook up the input and calibrate it for the load.
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