Megasquirt V 3.0 PCB and *error card hook up????
#1
V 3.0 PCB and *error card hook up????
I originally built my second VR conditioner in the proto area of my V3 board.. but after having noise issues I decided to scrap the one I built in the proto area in favor of building it on the *error board, since I already had it along with al the components to do so. Well, today I reinstalle dthe MS on the car and tried to crank and NO TACH SIGNAL!!! I really am about done with this thing. I've got a 20 year old carb on my 25 year old 81 and it starts up first try no problem EVER, and this piece of "sopisticated" hardware can't even start the damn car??? I put some pictures of my work below. What I'm trying to do is figure out:
1.) What pin/terminal (whatever) does the G+ signal enter into the *error card?
2.) What pin/terminal does the G- signal enter into the *error card?
3.) What pin/terminal does the LM1815 output going to JS8 on the v3 board leave the *error card from?
4.)I'm assuming I can use the 5v and ground coming from the proto area of my board...correct??
If I can't get this figured out in the next 2 days I'll be selling this damn thing and going with a Microtech, I feel like I've F'ed around with this thing long enough, and have exhausted my mind and body trying to make it work.
1.) What pin/terminal (whatever) does the G+ signal enter into the *error card?
2.) What pin/terminal does the G- signal enter into the *error card?
3.) What pin/terminal does the LM1815 output going to JS8 on the v3 board leave the *error card from?
4.)I'm assuming I can use the 5v and ground coming from the proto area of my board...correct??
If I can't get this figured out in the next 2 days I'll be selling this damn thing and going with a Microtech, I feel like I've F'ed around with this thing long enough, and have exhausted my mind and body trying to make it work.
#2
MegaSquirt Mod
This is the biggest problem and biggest advantage with the megasquirt.
You do it yourself... so whether it works or not is totally dependent on you. It's not the megasquirt's fault it can't start your car, as it starts several other peoples' cars just fine.
However, did you try the capacitor idea I told you to try? You never said one way or the other.
Also, please post your latest msq, as the problem could be there as well.
Ken
You do it yourself... so whether it works or not is totally dependent on you. It's not the megasquirt's fault it can't start your car, as it starts several other peoples' cars just fine.
However, did you try the capacitor idea I told you to try? You never said one way or the other.
Also, please post your latest msq, as the problem could be there as well.
Ken
#4
MegaSquirt Mod
I'll have to find the docs for that card. I do not use it in my own megasquirts (I designed my own card that I use).
If anyone already has the docs, please post them here.
Ken
If anyone already has the docs, please post them here.
Ken
#5
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
i've never used the error card, so I cant really help a whole lot with that. Could you post pictures of the whole front and back of your V3 board too? I'll check and see if i can find anything with the way your original 2nd vr circuit was hooked up.
For the spark outputs around the LEDs, it looks like you may be bridging some stuff that shouldnt be connected, especially the leg of D16 that the black wire is connected to. Its hard to tell in the picture though.
For the spark outputs around the LEDs, it looks like you may be bridging some stuff that shouldnt be connected, especially the leg of D16 that the black wire is connected to. Its hard to tell in the picture though.
#6
i was thinking about cutting the teeth off. what causes more interference this way? seems like itd be easier, but if its not gonna work ill build another vr conditioner.
#7
This is the biggest problem and biggest advantage with the megasquirt.
You do it yourself... so whether it works or not is totally dependent on you. It's not the megasquirt's fault it can't start your car, as it starts several other peoples' cars just fine.
However, did you try the capacitor idea I told you to try? You never said one way or the other.
Also, please post your latest msq, as the problem could be there as well.
Ken
You do it yourself... so whether it works or not is totally dependent on you. It's not the megasquirt's fault it can't start your car, as it starts several other peoples' cars just fine.
However, did you try the capacitor idea I told you to try? You never said one way or the other.
Also, please post your latest msq, as the problem could be there as well.
Ken
Ken would you be interested in sending me one of your boards with the 2nd VR circuit with instructions to hook it to the V3 board for the right price?
Or would anyone be willing to troubleshoot/get my MS up and working if I sent it to them and paid them? I'm really stumped with this stuff, I definately need some more electrical knowledge.
And for what it's worth here's my MSQ..
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#8
There is a connection page on glensgarage.com/extra ...
That being said ... I know the excel sheet page has the right connections, however I remember reading that the color code page of the board may have the colors of vr1 and vr2 backwards ... so since only 1 lm1815 is built, I *think* you may have assembled vr2 ... perhaps try to use the vr2 stuff respectively(looks by your solder marks on p5 3+4, that you made connections for vr1) ... I usually only build a "complete" error board, using only the excel sheet, and have had no issues several times.
HTH
That being said ... I know the excel sheet page has the right connections, however I remember reading that the color code page of the board may have the colors of vr1 and vr2 backwards ... so since only 1 lm1815 is built, I *think* you may have assembled vr2 ... perhaps try to use the vr2 stuff respectively(looks by your solder marks on p5 3+4, that you made connections for vr1) ... I usually only build a "complete" error board, using only the excel sheet, and have had no issues several times.
HTH
#9
There is a connection page on glensgarage.com/extra ...
That being said ... I know the excel sheet page has the right connections, however I remember reading that the color code page of the board may have the colors of vr1 and vr2 backwards ... so since only 1 lm1815 is built, I *think* you may have assembled vr2 ... perhaps try to use the vr2 stuff respectively(looks by your solder marks on p5 3+4, that you made connections for vr1) ... I usually only build a "complete" error board, using only the excel sheet, and have had no issues several times.
HTH
That being said ... I know the excel sheet page has the right connections, however I remember reading that the color code page of the board may have the colors of vr1 and vr2 backwards ... so since only 1 lm1815 is built, I *think* you may have assembled vr2 ... perhaps try to use the vr2 stuff respectively(looks by your solder marks on p5 3+4, that you made connections for vr1) ... I usually only build a "complete" error board, using only the excel sheet, and have had no issues several times.
HTH
Thanks for the offer, I've been meaning to reply on the forum but figured I'd give a day or two for the database errors to clear up on the board. Your post earlier confirmed my thoiughts about the colors being wrong on glennsgarage's layout. My only other concern would be how to count the pins on P1, the main connector to the board. Unfortunately I didn't get the 20 wire ribbon to use so I'm at the mercy of soldering wires directly to the board. If you know that, AND if the hook-up connections are correct on glennsgarage page here: then I could be in business. I assume that I can begin counting P1 at the pin with the square soldering pad, and count left to right to 10, then the confusion comes, do i begin countiing the next row from left to right? or right to left? Basically is pin 11 underneath pin 1 or under pin 10? And if I can't get this thing working then I'll be taking you up on that offer. I'm gonna give it one more shot then I'm burning it...lol
Thanks,
Ken
Eric,
Just wanted to post this in the forum in case anyone else can use the info.
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