Megasquirt tach noise when cranking only.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 442
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From: Canada
tach noise when cranking only.
I have not been able to get rid of it. It is near impossible to start the car with this noise. I get 0 noise when the car is running and under any condition. I am using v2.2 with the relay board. My CAS wires are all shielded. I play with the resistor on my daughter card but that did nothing.
I have MS ground to engine
MS power to battery
MS swithed to some wire I found by the old factory ecu.
Battery has been relocated to rear bins. I tried moving ground around to different locations. Any suggestion would be nice. I am build a second MS ecu with the newer version of EXTRA card. In hopes to get rid of it. I would like to be able to start the car with out killing the battery every time.
I have MS ground to engine
MS power to battery
MS swithed to some wire I found by the old factory ecu.
Battery has been relocated to rear bins. I tried moving ground around to different locations. Any suggestion would be nice. I am build a second MS ecu with the newer version of EXTRA card. In hopes to get rid of it. I would like to be able to start the car with out killing the battery every time.
since you have a 2.2 and I have a 3.0 this may be of limited help (or none at all) but if I had the pots adjusted too far to cancel out noise they actually introduced noise while cranking.
it would be neat to compare our cars side-by side as theys eem to be a pretty close setup! I have the battery in the storage bin as well heh
it would be neat to compare our cars side-by side as theys eem to be a pretty close setup! I have the battery in the storage bin as well heh
MegaSquirt Mod
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,721
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
the problem is probably the grounds. In every case I've seen noise only on cranking, the ground has been the problem. You probably need to do a better job grounding the battery to the chassis (preferably do this somewhere under the hood), and grounding the starter to the battery.
I got some 1/0 welding cable to do my grounds with, I ran it from the battery right to the chassis in the storage bin using the factory seatbelt bolt or something.
I then ran a 2GA cable from the chassis direct to the engine. this seemed to be enough to transfer amps effectively, the car cranks faster than it ever did in the past
I then ran a 2GA cable from the chassis direct to the engine. this seemed to be enough to transfer amps effectively, the car cranks faster than it ever did in the past
MegaSquirt Mod
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,721
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
if there is a voltage differential between points on the chassis (and there can be) it can still cause problems....
The best bet is to have the battery grounded under the hood, and have the engine grounded there as well... I'm not saying it won't work, just that it's the way I've had the best results.... and how the factories do things as well (I would assume for a reason)
The best bet is to have the battery grounded under the hood, and have the engine grounded there as well... I'm not saying it won't work, just that it's the way I've had the best results.... and how the factories do things as well (I would assume for a reason)
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