I was finally able to get my FC to fire up on the MS II, but it was short lived.

I was able to rev it up and keep it alive for a while in the 1200-2300 RPM range. However, anytime i let the TPS drop to 0% or go over 40%, she'd die super quick.

Would not start with the throttle in the resting position. Once dead, it was nearly impossible to revive.

I've restabbed the CAS a few times (on both timing marks, for ***** n giggles).

I am attaching my most recent attempt at starting the car. It sputs on each crank like it has some umph behind it, but not enough to turn it over and keep it going. Any ideas? Does anything jump out?

Thanks in advance.

 

It's going to be either too rich or too lean. It's hard to tell from your datalog because the wideband is a flat line and there wasn't enough time to let it stabilized. But from the duty cycle, it looks like you are around 9mS the entire time and then it jumps higher when the engine stars. Try removing fuel.

 

Did you check your timing with a strobe?

Looks like your temp sensors aren't working.

Might help if you post your msq and describe your engine (stock NA?).

 

I had the Wideband disconnected for battery savings... didn't think it would be much help with startup issues. I'll plug it in for my next attempt.

To reduce fuel, I should be keeping it at or below 9ms?


Motor is NA rotors with stock (minus emissions) T2 everything else. 550 primary, 860 secondary. Walboro 255. I don't have a timing light, I suppose that's the next step. (I've tried a range of positions after a solid stab)

My MS is plug n play. v3.57 with the Zeal S4 T2 adapter on an S4 NA harness. I am still using the MAF to run the fuel pump.


Thanks alot for the input.

 

Oh yeah, your temp sensors are saying -40 degrees. That would indicate they are disconnected.

If you are using the stock sensors, the ECU must be programmed to their temp/resistance curve.

 

DW about the wb02 for the moment in fact remove the sensor and unplug the controller. No sense risking hurting it when its useless at the moment.

I will tell you exactly what to do now

For a 13BT on 550cc injectors using pump fuel 100% petrol no shitanol (ethanol) assuming 36-43psi fuel I suggest a req_fuel of 8.0mS.

For your cranking pulsewidth linearly fill the table.

100% of 8mS @ 82degC
122% of 8mS @ 77degC for the coolant (whatever that is in degF).
==> linear change in between ==>
326% of 8mS @ -12degC for the coolant (whatever that is in degF).

For priming pulse

6.0mS @ -12degC
==> linear change in between ==>
2.6mS @ 77degC
2.0mS @ 82degC

Then fill your VE table I'm suggesting starting at 50% around idle. Make sure map multiply is enabled, or else you will need to scale that based on the load. So 25% around 50kpa.

As load increases above 50kpa scale that upwards. Fuel up to 135% VE @ 10psi and linearly scale that down to 115% VE @ 0psi.

As RPM increases increase VE later you will then have to get it running smoothly first and then you can use the brilliance of auto tune and its statistical algorithm to get your VE map spot on.

For accelerator pump I'm suggesting a minimum value of 1.5mS, then bins of 3.0mS 4.5mS and 7mS. You'll need to guess the %/s rate of change on the TPS but 1.5mS should be for a typical gentle takeoff from a standstill the sort of throttle you will use. 7.5mS would be more of a fast open from 10% to 100% when already rolling.

Dwell around 3mS

Good luck!

 

PS My priming and starting settings will quickly flood (and probably ruin spark plugs) a motor that does not want to start.

To disable cranking pulse make sure your throttle position sensor is correct calibrated and crank at wide open throttle.

Good idea to disable priming pulse until its starting reliably off the key.

 

I tried the settings provided by Jobro to no avail last night. I have logs and will post them.

I restabbed the CAS.. AGAIN. Attempted to start it from the NA ecu, and it ALMOST started. However, I now appear to have a rather large oil leak somewhere. I am hoping the Turbo blew it's oil seal and nothing else is wrong. (Sucks to lose a turbo oil seal without even getting a chance to drive it?)

 

spark plugs?

 

They were a little wet with gas, but not like they used to get if my engine flooded.

I am going to drop in a set of 460cc and try running the motor on the stock ECU for a bit.

I tore the turbo off to find out what was going on with the oil. I have a black oil deposit in the rear rotor/exhaust port. However, the top of the exhaust port is dry and so is everything inside, just some oil build up on the bottom. Hopefully, it's just been the turbo leaking in there.