Not sure if this is the appropriate area, but....

I would like to actuate my 6-ports with my megasquirt. I don't have the headers with the tube. Previously, I used a lumbar pump + Rpm activated switches to run the 6-port.

I saw that in Aaron's 76 Cosmo build, he installed some solenoids to actuate the 6-ports. Aaron? If you see this?

Or suggestions for other solenoids? I was considering bike cables? I'd like more granular control then open / close.

In-betweens would be great.

 

Mac valves makes a nice 3 port solenoid if you are considering going pneumatic. They are around $30, small, and have 1/8npt ports which gives you a lot of options. You can use one of the outputs on MS to activate the solenoid or simply have it turn on a electric pump.

 

I used one of the DIYAutoTune solenoids:
EBC Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Kit DIYAutoTune.com

Though any solenoid will do the job if you have some lying around.

My situation is a bit different though since I have a source of compressed air (turbocharger) to run the ports. If you don't, then you'll need to figure something out by using the air pump, a little bottle of CO2, etc.

Or use something like a door pull solenoid (same type used for shaved door handles) and a cable to simply pull the ports open. Bicycle cable would do the job as you mention.

 

Thanks guys!

I don't know the exact name, but it's a solenoid that as it changes position it provides feedback as it it's position? I'd like to setup a system like this, that allows me to control the ports more precisely. So I can do 1/4 open, 1/2 open, etc.

Not 100% sure how beneficial this would be.... Slightly more control over timing?

And, does the megasquirt have the ability to take in the feedback from the solenoid?

I'll see if I can find the exact thing I'm talking about....

 

I really don't think that controlling opening amount will help all that much since the pressure waves will be bouncing back anyway due to pressure change. I have even contemplated a cable operated via throttle linkage.

If S4 then best bet is header pressure. It is way to easy to set up. If S5 use the megasquirt to control a solenoid driven off CO2 canister.

 

You're referring to a "servo".

Servos are pretty easy to drive with a basic 555 timer circuit, supplied with a 0-5V signal from the 'Squirt. However that seems like overkill. You just need the ports to open. Half open wouldn't be beneficial.

 

Thanks Aaron!

I wasn't 100% sure if it would be. I thought of the term last night, just didn't post. hahah. Too much work recently, fried brain.

I have a lumbar pump / relay system that I previously used, I'll just continue to use this, but will have the MS trigger it.

 

Here is another option.
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

 

That rotary resurrection one is kind of like how mine used to be setup.
Used some summit racing RPM switches.

 

Those pumps aren't designed to be mounted in the engine bay, especially zip tied to the washer fluid reservoir. Wow.

 

Crazy what people rig up.
Mine was a Lumbar pump from a Ford F-150.
Still runs great. Used it for about 3 years without issue.

 

If it helps, I'm in the process of reversing the actuation on one of mine so that the "default" position is open. The plan is to run plenum vacuum to it so that when vacuum is high, it's closed and when vacuum is low, the actuator relaxes and the aux port is open. No air pump needed. If it starts doing weird things, I'll use a vacuum chamber/check valve/solenoid/rpm switch setup. Obviously, if it works I'll make a pair off them.

 

Interesting idea zak.
How are you attempting to do this?

 

I used a belt sander to remove the crimped on "bell." It's a very simple actuator. As I suspected, it's got a diaphragm and a spring. From the factory, the spring is used to keep the shaft in its "extended" position, and the chamber on the opposite side of the spring uses exhaust back pressure to collapse the spring. My plan is to source a spring to install on the same side as the chamber formerly used to harness the exhaust back pressure, eliminating the factory spring, then machine a "cup" on the other side that will both act as a seal and protect the diaphragm.
This will effectively reverse the operation so the aux ports will be open at rest and will require vacuum to close them.

 

If you go 100% throttle at a low RPM, vacuum still goes to zero. It really should be RPM and TPS based (like VVT on modern piston motors) since that's the best indication of air velocity. IMO, configuring an output on the MS to switch a relay/pump at >3800RPM & >80% TPS would work well.

 

I totally agree, just that at this point, I still have the stock ecu and and just testing out the theory. I still have to decide whether I'm going to go MegaSquirt (most likely) or install the E-Manage Ultimate that's been sitting in my toolbox for years unused.

 

Check McMaster Carr for air cylinders.
McMaster-Carr

The "air-return" cylinders have 2 ports and use air to move either direction. You can use boost or vacuum. I'm using one of these and a couple 3-port Mac solenoids for a VGT turbo setup still in the works.

 

I've thought of going that route, but this way, everything bolts up because I'm still using the factory aluminum "upper" just fabbing a new "cup." Even the port at the back of the manifold will work so anyone that needs to pass any kind of visual will have no problems. I'll post pictures if/when I get it done. Just did the programming today, just need some machine time now.

 

Very awesome. Thanks for the info!

 

Look into solenoids that are used for shaved door handles. They stroke about an inch and have a 40# pull normally come with a leignth of cable attached to the plunger. I was building a system to opperate mine but decided my next mod will be ITBs so I scrapped the idea

 

If you are going to use any sort of solenoid it needs to be mounted outside of the engine bay, in an area sealed from grit and moisture. Shaved door solenoids are a great idea but you'd need to mount them in a little box somewhere. Maybe where the stock cruise actuator is located if it can be shielded from the heat.