Hi

I have assembled my ms2 and there is no spark happening. I have a good rpm signal with no strange resets anymore but it won't spark. D12 just stays on whenever ths ignition is on. D16 also stays on but D15 is always off.

My details are.
13bt
Ignition only, leading only. 2 bosch hec715 coils COP. Coils are working with old distributor.
MS1 v3 upgraded to MS2 with error* daughterboard.
Toothed cas.
220k pullup resister on D14.
Ignition out from D14 through pin 31 of DB37 to 2 VB921s on a daughterboard mounted on the case. I have already replaced VBs but no difference.
Tachselect jumped to VRIN
Tsel jumped to VROUT

Will post msq soon. Everything seems to be right. Wasted spark, normal, thoothed wheel.
Any help would be appreciated.

Paul.

 

here's the msq.

 

I'll take a look at the msq this weekend and let you know what I find.

Ken

 

thanks Ken, that would be great.

 

OK, problems:

1) You have too many injectors set up.
2) your req_fuel is too high
3) you have it set to alternating instead of simultaneous.
4) You have secondary fuel load turned on
5) Your injectors are set up for low impedance, and with a very small opening time
6) Your ignition table doesn't look right for a stock engine
7) You have it set up for 2 MAP sensors
8) You have rotary mode turned off
9) Your tooth #1 angle should be 5 degrees.
10) You have staged injection turned off.

Did you reboot the MS after changing the settings that let you get rpm? All of the things I mentioned here will affect how the engine runs, but won't cause it not to fire spark.

 

Sorry Ken, I should have been more clear.

I am running straight lpg so I am running ignition only, no injectors at all.
I haven't set the ignition table up properly yet, just wanted it to run first.
I am using the barometric correction map sensor on the error* board although I won't really need it.
I did reboot it.
Do I need rotary mode if I am only using leading?

I am thinking that I have somehow stuffed the transistor that switches the signal. Is there anything I should try replacing?

Many thanks,
Paul.

 

Any ideas anyone?

Would switching Q6 and Q7 around illiminate Q6 as being the problem?
Is there any way to test pin 7 of u1 to see if it is putting out a signal or am I barking up the wrong tree?

 

You could switch the transistors that switch the LEDs... you really only need the one LED though (D14 I believe, closest to the serial port).

You could try setting everything back to its normal function, and checking the LEDs on the bench.

Did you add a pullup resistor to the LED that you're using to drive spark?

Ken

 

I put Q7 into the Q6 spot and the led stayed off this time and still no spark.
I have 220k pullup resistor on led14 to the cpu side of R24.

 

I switched back to the original ms1 cpu and reinstalled msns extra on it, changed all the nessacary wiring back and still no change. RPM shows what it should when cranking but no switching at D14.

 

I think you had wasted spark set... if you're using only leading, you'll want "distributor output" or "single output"

And you'll want to make sure spark A is set to D14.

Also, 220k pullup? You should have at most a 4.7k pullup from +5v to the negative lead of the LED... then a wire from there to your ignitor.

Ken

 

sorry 220 ohm. I just tried "distributor output" but no good.

Spark A is set to D14.

The mystery continues.

 

220 ohm wired the way you have it may actually be the problem...

 

I put a 4.7k pullup resistor and it made no diference
Then after playing around with it for a few hours it now works!
I have no idea why but it now works. There must been a dodgy connection somewhere. I will double check all the solder joints again.

I took it for a spin and it runs as well as the old dizzy did even with the basic map.
Of course the laptop looses connection with it as soon as it starts but at least is runs.

Thanks for you help Ken, much appreciated.

 

ok, that's interesting... definitely double-check the solder joints.

Bad soldering could cause the disconnect as well.

Ken