Hello all

Wiring in a new Pro 3 unit for the first time.

Two Questions

ONE:

I have three CAS and all of them have the same color coded wires RED, WHITE, GREEN and a WHITE with a BLACK STRIPE.

In my Mazda manual it shows GREEN wire out from control unit with BLUE wire returning and on the other loop it shows RED out to the CAS and WHITE returning.

By watching Aaron video he states CAS RED to Crank +, CAS Black to Crank -, CAS White Black to Cam -, CAS Green to Cam+. He said black wire but I assume he meant Blue wire.

Is it save to say that I should hook up my wires as follows

CAS RED to PIN# 6 on White Connector CKP+ in
CAS WHITE to PIN# 15 on White Connector CKP- in

CAS GREEN to PIN#26 on White Connector CMP+ in
CAS WHITE BLACK to PIN#27 on White Connector CMP- in

NOTE: The Red and White wires go down to the lower sensor in the CAS

There seams to be several color changes over the years

QUESTION TWO:
I am going to run low impedance injectors with the resistor pack (Mazda Gen Two).

I believe it will work fine to run from the resistor pack to each injector as before with the following connections.

Rear Secondary Injector Brown Yellow wire from Pack and from the MS Pro3 Injector out D PIN# 6 from Gray Connector.

Rear Primary Injector Brown Red wire from Pack and from the MS Pro 3 Injector out B PIN# 2 from Gray Connector.

Front Secondary Injector Brown White wire from Pack and from the MS Pro3 Injector out C PIN# 4 from Gray Connector.

Front Primary Injector Brown wire from Pack and from the MS Pro 3 Injector out A PIN# 1 from Gray Connector.

Thanks
Kim

 

Do not reply to this thread

If all goes well Saturday will be a good day!

Thanks
Kim

 

I've never seen a CAS with a blue wire, but I have seen a blue wire on the car side of the harness. S4 and S5 have different wire colours in the harness.

In my video and on the DIYAutoTune writeup, the CAS side of connector is what is being referred to. The CAS wire colours stay the same regardless of S4 or S5.

I've never wired up the S4 resistor pack so I don't know the colours off hand. As I recall, the resistor pack has one common 12V feed, then 4 outputs, one for each injector. So it would need to go on the 12V side of the injector.

 

I looked back in my notes from running the MS 1 and checked the set up of the resistor pack wiring. It looks bang on to what I have posted and I kept the MS 3 Pro hook up as the video mentioned.

As far as the CAS goes I went with the factory electrical ay out in terms of arrow out to CAS as being positive and arrow returning being the negative.

The MS3 Pro manual states:

4.3.0.1 4.3.0.1 Variable reluctor sensors Variable reluctor (VR) sensors are similar to a guitar pick-up
coil. They have a magnet and a coil of wire which generates an A/C signal with a voltage that
increases with RPM. VR sensors do not have power wires as they generate their own voltage. On a
VR sensor, you will wire their two terminals to both of the CKP or CMP wires, as appropriate. Don’t
worry too much about getting it backwards - you can set the active edge in softwareare similar to a guitar pick-up
coil. They have a magnet and a coil of wire which generates an A/C signal with a voltage that
increases with RPM. VR sensors do not have power wires as they generate their own voltage. On a
VR sensor, you will wire their two terminals to both of the CKP or CMP wires, as appropriate. Don’t
worry too much about getting it backwards - you can set the active edge in software

But I think I have it and I am good to go.
Posted new thread about format probem.

Kim

 

Just looked at the FSM wiring diagram. Unfortunately it does not reference the colours on the CAS side of the connector so I can't compare it to the wiring I recommended. I've always just referenced the CAS side in all standalones because the car side changed colours over the years.

Yes, you can invert the signal in software but that just adds another unknown to the first startup. If the timing is wrong, is it because the crank signal is backwards? Or the cam signal? Or both? Or is the CAS a few teeth off? Or the coils connected leading to trailing or vice versa? Plus if you ever upgrade firmware or wipe out the ECU, when you reload the map you need to remember that the signal is backwards.

 

I checked every thing over I said can not see why it will not start. After making a few changes to the AFR I have a good idle and a very quick start. The spark advance matches the timing light 100% and rock solid. OOPS Just remembered did not check trailing. But it is running so smooth I can not see it not working (But I will check). LC-1 is not working properly so I will recalibrate it and see if that helps if not I have a spare new one to throw in.
Fan and over heat light working and all gauges match to the mechanical gauges. Less the LC-1


So if others have the same wire colors coming from the CAS on the engine side follow what I did and it will work 100%

Thanks

For your help

Kim