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Megasquirt No start/ No RPM signal

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Old 11-21-10, 04:29 PM
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No start/ No RPM signal

Using the MS2 v3, I wired up the CAS using a 4wire shielded conductor made by Belkin. Wired up per Aaron's instructions. Shield is grounded only on the ecu side. I'm not getting any spark, and there's no rpm bounce on the tach or on Megatune.

I also configured megatune and the ecu as per Aaron's writeup, but there were some differences between his writeup and my version of megatune.

If it makes any difference, I did not install the hall/coil/optical circuit, just the VR circuit. Should I go back and install that circuit?
Old 11-21-10, 07:45 PM
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if all your settings are correct i would suggest if you have access to an oscilloscope check the pick ups in the CAS. did you build your 2nd vr circuit or use a daughter card? if so the pin outs are different for the CAS then in Aarons write up. get a friend and test your wires from the cas to the ms harness and conform you got the correct pick ups going to the correct place.

just went through trouble shooting my no start with my car and turned out to be a bad coil but i went through all these steps to conform it was correct.
Old 11-21-10, 07:51 PM
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I was just about to post that I found THAT EXACT PROBLEM. I wired it up using Aaron's writeup, but I used the zeal daughtercard.

I hope I didn't fry anything

Looks like I need to remove pins 3 & 4 and move them to pins 25 & 27.

Thanks for the help wankelbug, I'm going to re-pin this thing first thing in the morning.

If anyone else has any other troubleshooting to add, please do.

Let it be known that I followed Aaron's writeup for configuring the ecu as well. Is there anything that changes w/ using the daughtercard?
Old 11-21-10, 08:04 PM
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i believe aaron has stated in the sticky in this forum that you need to use the settings from DIYautotune.com on configuring the ms.
Old 11-22-10, 08:34 AM
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ok, i just got done re-pinning the harness, and I got rpm signal on Megatune, but not on the dash. And for some reason, I'm getting only about 180 rpm. The car has a full battery charge, and it's got a quite good cranking speed. I went back and changed all the settings to that which DIY described, but still no start.
Old 11-22-10, 09:22 AM
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And no spark either. I don't have access to an oscilloscope, could I use LED's to check for pulse to the coils?
Old 11-22-10, 01:16 PM
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So I went out and got a logic probe, still no access to a scope. I checked for pulse at the leading coil, but got nothing. For kicks and giggles, I hooked up a spark tester at the leading coil and pulsed ground to the red wire. BAM! Engine kicked over for a second. I guess that means the coil is good, but still no pulse from the ecu. And I have to be getting the signal from the CAS because I'm getting rpm signal during cranking. Although it's only 180 rpm, and I know it's got to be higher than that.

I've been reading up about people's no-spark situations, and the pots keep getting mentioned. Everything's pointing to them needing to be turned fully CCW. Would that have any effect on my situation?
Old 11-22-10, 01:56 PM
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Dammit




I was going back over everything I did, and realized that I completely skipped this step:


•We will need three ignition outputs, each with a 5 volt pull up.
◦Run a 1K resistor from the 5 volt source in the proto area or the right side of R24 to the top (negative) lead of D14, and run a jumper wire from the negative lead of D14 to IGN. This is spark output A.
◦Run a 1K resistor from the 5 volt source in the proto area or the right side of R28 to the top (negative) lead of D16, and run a jumper wire from the negative lead of D16 to IAC2B. This is spark output B.
◦Run a 1K resistor from the 5 volt source in the proto area or the right side of R25 to the top (negative) lead of D15, and run a jumper wire from the negative lead of D15 to IAC2A. This is spark output C.

I opened the ecu and verified the pots are fully ccw, and checked for burned things. Thankfully, the only thing that burned up was not in the ecu. I forgot to pull the diode off the relay connector for the main relay. That thing went out in a fiery BLAZE I think I must have reverse biased the **** out of that thing. I was lucky too. It was right behind the driver's side headlight, and when I turned the key on for the first time, I found I had a pretty massive fuel leak from the secondary rail banjo fitting, which sprayed REALLY close to the tiny diode fire.

No fire extinguishers nearby, so I pressurized the garden hose before turning the key a second time

I'm going to go finish building my ecu now and see where that gets me.
Old 11-22-10, 02:03 PM
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the pots can effect it. but sounds like you know where you need to start now. the signal to the coil is a 5v signal so you can check that with a decent meter. scope is better but will work. good luck.
Old 11-22-10, 03:48 PM
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IT RUNS!!!! Holy **** it runs!

Now I just need to find this exhaust leak.


Thanks for helping wankelbug!
Old 11-24-10, 02:35 PM
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glad it worked out. now if i could just sort out mt ignition problem and make mine run. lol
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