this my first MS install so maybe i did something wrong with the harness or my settings are wrong but my motor wont start,its a fresh rebuild HB turbo motor running a MS 2.2 with all the mods to run fuel and ignition,i copied BDC timing and split maps and everything else its setup following the rotary settings in the FAQS.If i crank the motor i get no spark at all,the second that i stop cranking i get spark for a second(very weird),my coolant guage reads 40 degrees all the time and if i touch my gas pedal my spark advance guage goes crazy,when i get that split second of spark my LEDs start flashing and then they get steady bright red ,i did builded my own plug and play harness using the faqs and some pictures,this its how i did the CAS connections

CAS Ne+ 1T
CAS Ne- 1Q
CAS G+ IN
CAS G- 1P

For the grounds i used the stock harness grounds,i did rewire my fuel pump and im running all the stock sensors,im using MS1/EXTRA 02Y4,here its my map if anyone wants to take a look(im running my stock 550cc just to start the motor up ,im waiting for my 720-1680 combo to get delivered)Thanks Joey


PS
I tried 1 time using the stock N333
ECU and it got flodded really bad

 

I got this unit here from another forum member like a year ago,it was a fuel only setup,i decided to send the unit out to get all the mods to run fuel and spark for this project.
sorry forgot to add the file to my original post but here we go now

 

If you're getting no spark, that means you're not getting a tach signal...

Your wheel settings are wrong...

2nd trigger with rising and no missing should be enabled.

Also, with your settings, cranking advance should be 0, not 10.


Your required fuel is too high for the stock 550s, it should be around 7-8.

Number of injectors should be 2 not 4.

Your cranking pulse-widths from 60 deg F up are not going to start the engine...

The only one that could cause you not to get cranking RPM is the wheel decoder being set for missing tooth.

 

im getting tach signal,im fixing everything else thanks muy

 

IF you're getting rpms in megatune and no spark, then it's wiring, pullup resistors on the LEDs, or the ignitors themselves.

Oh, and I meant that your req_fuel (at 4.0) was too *low* not too high... around 7 or 8 is good for 550's

Ken

 

ken i fixed the req-fuel and everything else but im still not getting spark at the right moment i only get that split second of spark after im done cranking,i know that im getting spark at that time cause it backfires,im gonna double check the harness and see if that its the problem if not i guess that i need to get the unit service,thanks Joey

 

find out that im not getting spark on T1 and cant figure out why,this is so depressing i never got in so much trouble to start a motor up.Did anybody has a wiring diagram or picture of how to build a PNP adapter(MS 2.2)that works for sure,i have a diagram that i got of this site but on the one vr sensor the wires were backwards and that was one of my problems i inverted the wires and now the tach works great but dont have spark on T1, car has good comp i have gas but im missing something somewere on the MS

 

I don't know if my pics and diagrams will help because they are for a modified ver 3.0 using a modified CAS and I'm using pin#'s 25, 27, and 29 for my leading and trailing coils. I also used the DIYautotune wiring harness as well because I shudder at the thought of using the stock harness that's 15+ years old. That's just me though. I don't know if I can help with your PNP harness however.

 

Your diagrams did work for some other connections(i been following your threads)
im going to redo and check all the connections tomorrow and see what happens if i can get it to work im going to dig out my old F4(haltech fuel only)a dizzy and go from there,it sucks that you spend so much time and money in motor and you cant get it to run

 

Are you getting spark anywhere else? Leading?

If you're getting spark on leading, the engine should start. If you're not getting spark on T1, it means that you either have the two trailing wires backwards, or you're not getting one of the trailing signals at all. Usually that means that (if I remember correctly, would have to look at the code to verify) that the coil select signal is never going low.

Ken

 

leading its getting spark(really good spark),let me go over the trailing wires maybe i got them backwards,it really sounds like it want to start but only backfires and spit flames(huge flames),it could be that my timing its off or cause its a fresh rebuild comp its not that good(but it was build with new housings)
Well im gonna keep trying and i will keep you posted Ken oh and thanks for your help guys(bryan and ken)

 

Joey where you located bro? Couldnt you use the stock ecu to get her fired up then play w/ the ms?

 

i have my car at my brothers shop(lehigh street),you seen the open crate bridge at the begining of lehigh st?then after you go over the bridge to your right its a RV place im right behind the RV place,i tried the stock ecu one time and it didnt work it only got the motor flodded really bad not even a puff,with the MS i get
spark at the leading plugs,gas and compression but it wont start,im going to do comp test on monday to get some numbers and go from there,if you want to meet or something here its my cel# 484-347-2337,Im good friend with joepil(blue RX2) and he is always taking about the latin and his toys maybe the 3 of us can get together and get some cervesas

 

lol, cool brother. We gotta do that sometime. I think my boy Johnny owned that garage at one time....not sure if its the same one. Either way i'll hit you up this week as work is sloooowwww! lol Tell Joepil not to be stranger!

 

yeah, having flames means your timing is too retarded.. The CAS probably needs adjustment.

Trailing won't fire on crank with ms1, I missed your comment saying you were on ms1 before. Trailing comes on around 800 rpms with ms1/extra.

This isn't a problem either, I've run engines with leading-only before without any issues.

Ken

 

okay so im going to restab the cas tomorow and see what happens,thanks for the help Ken

 

So you restabbed and then what?

 

i restabbed the cas and i double checked the wiring but still wont start,i have a premade harness with labeling printed on the wires for the MS but one of the VR sensor didnt have anything on it so im working blind,im gonna post a picture soon and see if that helps,this its what its on the one sensor that its labeled
VR SENSOR (NE)
GREEN-
WHITE+
and on wire its black and the other its red,same colors on the one not marked

 

okay MS its working now(i guess)I have rpms on the stock tach,rpms on megatune,i have spark at the leading plugs,LED on the right flashes(the one on the corner) when im cranking but still no start,what the H@$#% its happening.

 

I'm tired and I just glanced at this thread, so correct me if this is not what you are referring to, but when you mention the green and white wires, are you referring to the wires on the s4/s5 CAS? (If) that's what you are referring to, then the white wire is the ground (-), and the green is the trigger (+).
If I had enough $$ to be able to drive around, then I'd gladly stop by and try and help you with this as best I can.

 

IF you have spark, and fuel, the engine should start. Are you sure you're getting fuel?

IF you are getting fuel and it won't start, the plugs could be fouled, or you could just need to slightly change the cranking timing.

Ken

 

if i post my MS again,can you take a look Muy?sorry to keep bothering,if you cant that its fine 2

 

I can look, but you didn't answer my last question. Are you sure you're getting fuel?

Ken

 

sorry ken but yes im getting fuel buddy

 

OK, then like I said before, if you've got spark, fuel, and compression, you should have a running engine. Also like I said before though, the rotary is very sensitive to crank timing in my experience.

For example, at 5 deg BTDC, starts are hard in general, especially cold starts. At 0 degrees things are much better, at 5 ATDC, the engine starts very quickly. Too much out side that range, the engine just won't start.

Also, I've found that for cold start, you need a pretty large cranking pulse-width...

Starting at the highest temperature, my cranking pulse-width is just over 4 ms, then I gradually go up to almost 20 ms at the coldest temperature, and I have a 12 ms priming pulse.

Ken